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  #41  
Old 01-17-2021, 07:55 PM
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Well then, seems you've got the engine from a Massey Ferguson 10! If it's cast iron then I'd say it's probably a good engine. Don't know too much about them but I've certainly never seen one blow up like the aluminum ones!!



One annoying thing about them is that unlike the Kohlers, to clean your points, you'll have to remove the flywheel because they tuck the coil condenser and points under there. To get it running you'll have to pull the engine, but seems you already need to pull it to fix the clutch anyways.

Man, I might have to take up the offer on the Massey Ferguson 8 sitting behind a local shop. 100 bucks for the complete tractor and mower deck, whaddaya think?
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'70 107 with k301 engine swap
'71 106 with 38" deck
'70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck
'61 Original with 38" timed deck
'63 70 "pinkie"
1863 with 54" deck
'46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub

105 x2 (parts)
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  #42  
Old 01-17-2021, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cubcadet_107 View Post
Well then, seems you've got the engine from a Massey Ferguson 10! If it's cast iron then I'd say it's probably a good engine. Don't know too much about them but I've certainly never seen one blow up like the aluminum ones!!



One annoying thing about them is that unlike the Kohlers, to clean your points, you'll have to remove the flywheel because they tuck the coil condenser and points under there. To get it running you'll have to pull the engine, but seems you already need to pull it to fix the clutch anyways.

Man, I might have to take up the offer on the Massey Ferguson 8 sitting behind a local shop. 100 bucks for the complete tractor and mower deck, whaddaya think?
Well, if I'm going to pull the engine, I want to put the right engine in. Anybody want this Tecumseh?
I'll probably try to get this one running first just to have a running tractor that can pull itself onto a trailer, but I'm definitely in the market for a Kohler 7 hp!
I'll be back when I get the engine out and find whatever it is I'm going to find!
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  #43  
Old 01-17-2021, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by WesternCannonball View Post
Well, if I'm going to pull the engine, I want to put the right engine in. Anybody want this Tecumseh?
I'll probably try to get this one running first just to have a running tractor that can pull itself onto a trailer, but I'm definitely in the market for a Kohler 7 hp!
I'll be back when I get the engine out and find whatever it is I'm going to find!
I'd take it if I weren't so far away...
I have a knack for collecting just old small engines, particularly old Briggs and Strattons, but wouldn't mind a cast iron Tecumseh. Also looking to get into Wisconsins.... lol

Not sure where you'll find a K161 for it but if you don't mind "unoriginality" too much you can also put a k181 in it, or just go for a k241 and make it a 100.
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'70 107 with k301 engine swap
'71 106 with 38" deck
'70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck
'61 Original with 38" timed deck
'63 70 "pinkie"
1863 with 54" deck
'46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub

105 x2 (parts)
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  #44  
Old 01-18-2021, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Cubcadet_107 View Post
I'd take it if I weren't so far away...
I have a knack for collecting just old small engines, particularly old Briggs and Strattons, but wouldn't mind a cast iron Tecumseh. Also looking to get into Wisconsins.... lol

Not sure where you'll find a K161 for it but if you don't mind "unoriginality" too much you can also put a k181 in it, or just go for a k241 and make it a 100.
I'd like to think I wouldn't mind having a 10 HP, but if possible I'd love to keep it as close to original as possible.
I wish you were closer to here, too, as I have several old engines of various makes laying around that need new homes! Know anyone around here who could do the buying and picking up for you?
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  #45  
Old 01-19-2021, 08:49 AM
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Well unfortunately, Washington is a LONG ways away from New York, so short of shipping engines across the US there's really no other options.

And with how shipping usually goes, I wouldn't trust anyone with an engine being shipped anywhere. It would arrive, in the form of a battered up box with some part of the engine sticking through the cardboard, I'd open it up and the fuel tank would be dented, or the fan shroud,

Seems one thing we all do well here is bash shipping companies

But anyways, good luck with your 70, and hopefully you'll find an engine for it soon. When you do, and get it going, I'd like to see some pictures!
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'70 107 with k301 engine swap
'71 106 with 38" deck
'70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck
'61 Original with 38" timed deck
'63 70 "pinkie"
1863 with 54" deck
'46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub

105 x2 (parts)
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  #46  
Old 01-21-2021, 12:27 PM
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On a related note, I have a lead on a running K161! If I were to have to have it shipped, anyone know the weight and dimensions so I could calculate the cost?
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  #47  
Old 01-21-2021, 05:58 PM
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Without the s/g and packing material around 70 lbs.
The best way is to ship it is in a wooden box and bolted to the bottom.
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  #48  
Old 01-21-2021, 06:21 PM
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I don't know about weight, but I just made some measurements of my k161 in my original. Note these aren't gonna be exact, and do NOT include a PTO or a muffler. My Original also has a larger fuel tank, so the height may be taller than necessary but here goes:

Length (PTO end of crankshaft to drive hub): about 15"

Width (of the whole engine, S/G, air cleaner and carb included): 19-20" depending on location of S/G adjustment

Width (withOUT S/G, coil, or air cleaner, but WITH carb): 13-14"

Width (withOUT S/G, coil, air cleaner, or carb): 11-12"

Height (whole engine including gas tank): 21"

Height (without gas tank, in reference to spark plug): 16-17"

Hopefully those'll cover it, I don't know what the engine is missing or if it's all complete so I tried to measure everything I could. I don't have the oil bath filter so the measurement of full width should be decently accurate. Again this is the engine for an Original and isn't exactly the same as one for a 70, so some measurements might be off. I would go an inch or 2 over in terms of box/crate size to be safe.
__________________

'70 107 with k301 engine swap
'71 106 with 38" deck
'70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck
'61 Original with 38" timed deck
'63 70 "pinkie"
1863 with 54" deck
'46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub

105 x2 (parts)
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  #49  
Old 01-21-2021, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cubcadet_107 View Post
I don't know about weight, but I just made some measurements of my k161 in my original. Note these aren't gonna be exact, and do NOT include a PTO or a muffler. My Original also has a larger fuel tank, so the height may be taller than necessary but here goes:

Length (PTO end of crankshaft to drive hub): about 15"

Width (of the whole engine, S/G, air cleaner and carb included): 19-20" depending on location of S/G adjustment

Width (withOUT S/G, coil, or air cleaner, but WITH carb): 13-14"

Width (withOUT S/G, coil, air cleaner, or carb): 11-12"

Height (whole engine including gas tank): 21"

Height (without gas tank, in reference to spark plug): 16-17"

Hopefully those'll cover it, I don't know what the engine is missing or if it's all complete so I tried to measure everything I could. I don't have the oil bath filter so the measurement of full width should be decently accurate. Again this is the engine for an Original and isn't exactly the same as one for a 70, so some measurements might be off. I would go an inch or 2 over in terms of box/crate size to be safe.
Thanks a bundle! I'd better get ahold of the guy and see if we can make it happen. I'm in WA and he's in MI....
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  #50  
Old 02-01-2021, 10:39 PM
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Updates:
Well, the engine in MI wasn't quite right. BUT! I got lucky and found one right here in WA that was only a two hour drive away! Rounded up my girlfriend and made a day trip out of it. Ended up with a K161, complete with flywheel and the plate to engage the clutch, a starter/generator, a gas tank, an air cleaner, and a muffler for it, all for less than 300 bucks (not counting lunch and a stop at a custom butcher shop) and some gas. Now how do you beat that?
Finally got the bolts on the Tecumseh loose, took enough parts off of it to make it light enough to lift, and got it out of the frame. That brought good news: the cuts and welds made to the frame were only on one side to clear the oil pan. The original Kohler engine mounting holes were still there, intact, and lined up perfectly. I'm still going to have someone cut off that ugly modification and weld some L-steel I have laying around into the gap. Won't be factory-fresh, but will look better and will be stronger, I think. I'll have to get some pictures of how it looks now (up on blocks, no rear end, no front, no engine) to show the progress.
Then the really fun part will begin: reassembly. Remember folks, ALWAYS keep a grocery bag of washed-out tin cans around, along with a pad of note paper to label what part the tin of bolts came out of! Oh, and don't take the front end bolts out of the frame unless you are holding it up.... almost got conked on the noggin by that piece of VERY solid metal today.
As a side note, I'm very likely to become the new caretaker of one 1947 and one 1949 Case VAO tractors. Is there a place on here for the bigger toys or anyone interested in such things? (Not to sell, but for pictures and advice)
That's it for now, hopefully things will progress a little quicker with the engine here and the rear end almost ready for reassembly.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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