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  #11  
Old 09-24-2018, 10:36 PM
hyperlightboards48 hyperlightboards48 is offline
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Thanks Jonathan and Peter. Good advice, since I have gotten into cubs the only ones I’ve owned have been K-series so I have a lot to learn about this model. I Spent a lot of today reading through posts and gathering knowledge where I can.

Peter- where are you in MN?
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  #12  
Old 09-24-2018, 10:57 PM
PeterJ PeterJ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Yes, that is the lift rod for a blade. Get an xtreme one that does both.
John, the item in question is either described as a lift arm, or a lift bracket. It is never described as a rod. You should know what a rod is.

To clarify the shut down procedure: The later model 1863/1864 manuals changed the engine shut down procedure to be done at mid throttle instead of slow throttle. I move it to full throttle at the same time I shut the key off. IMO that is the simplest way to avoid the backfire. I have three tractors with that engine. I’ve never had a fuel solinoid issue.

PeterJ
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1863 48" deck, 3pt
1864 x 2, 54" deck, power bagger, 48” deck
1811 44" deck 1210 44"deck
IH trip plow
QA42-A, 451 x 2, 551
42" Earthcavator
Driveway Drag

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  #13  
Old 09-24-2018, 11:03 PM
PeterJ PeterJ is offline
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Tanner,

West Central. About an hour away from Moorhead/Fargo.

PeterJ
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1863 48" deck, 3pt
1864 x 2, 54" deck, power bagger, 48” deck
1811 44" deck 1210 44"deck
IH trip plow
QA42-A, 451 x 2, 551
42" Earthcavator
Driveway Drag

USAF
Shepherd's Chapel
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  #14  
Old 09-24-2018, 11:08 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterJ View Post
John, the item in question is either described as a lift arm, or a lift bracket. It is never described as a rod. You should know what a rod is.

To clarify the shut down procedure: The later model 1863/1864 manuals changed the engine shut down procedure to be done at mid throttle instead of slow throttle. I move it to full throttle at the same time I shut the key off. IMO that is the simplest way to avoid the backfire. I have three tractors with that engine. I’ve never had a fuel solinoid issue.

PeterJ

Peter,
I'm well aware of the item in question, I mistyped. I would apologize, but I really do not care. The OP knew what I meant. I only posted so that there was more than one person saying the same thing to him.

As far as the engine shut down procedure goes, I'm well aware of what the manuals say. It was the simplest thing Kohler could do that didn't cost them a bunch of money. Instead of offering to fix the real issue, or tell people they needed to cool off an engine (because after all, they don't have to let their car idle and cool down, they can just shut it off) they figured out that if you open the throttle and let in a bunch of air as you shut the engine off, it kept the hot engine and exhaust from loading up with fuel and backfiring. With enough air, the fuel was less concentrated and it wouldn't backfire. Believe me, you can get around it without jacking the throttle. Letting it cool off, tuning the carb, and making sure the tip on the backfire solenoid makes a good seal are the main ways to actually fix the issue.

I'm glad you have 3 of those engines. I've worked on a few more motors than you..... this year alone.
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  #15  
Old 09-25-2018, 12:41 AM
brudder brudder is offline
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This message board needs a pissing contest smilie.

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  #16  
Old 09-25-2018, 09:13 AM
PeterJ PeterJ is offline
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1863 48" deck, 3pt
1864 x 2, 54" deck, power bagger, 48” deck
1811 44" deck 1210 44"deck
IH trip plow
QA42-A, 451 x 2, 551
42" Earthcavator
Driveway Drag

USAF
Shepherd's Chapel
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  #17  
Old 10-08-2018, 09:12 AM
hyperlightboards48 hyperlightboards48 is offline
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I finally got some time to address the rear end leak. There is silicone globbed all over the place on this thing just want to confirm that this is a prior owner's attempt at resolving the issue, and that It doesn't come from the factory this way.

There is a small hole near the bottom see pic (at the tip on the screw driver) It doesn't appear to have any oil leaking from here but....

I plan to to get outer axle seals, cork gasket and seal everything else with black RTV. Will that work or am i better off getting all the gaskets from the dealer?

While I have this out is there anything else i should be addressing?

Pictures:
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  #18  
Old 10-08-2018, 10:19 AM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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The hole is for a dowel pin. It's not leaking from that. PO liked silicone.
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  #19  
Old 10-08-2018, 11:57 AM
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Terry C Terry C is offline
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Put some rear end braces on there for good measure.
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  #20  
Old 10-09-2018, 05:53 PM
hyperlightboards48 hyperlightboards48 is offline
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Thanks for the feedback. I was able to pick up the seals today and trying to split everything apart now.

I am trying to split the front and the rear parts of the case. I have removed the 4 exterior bolts and the 2 behind the ring/carrier. I was able to get a putty knife around the case to ensure the whole seal is broken but I cannot get the case to split. Is there something I am missing or do i just keep working it, is it just being held on the dowels Sam mentioned above?

Speaking of dowels, when searching through the forum on cork gaskets replacements the pumps i see pictured all have pins coming out of them and my rear end and new gasket have holes for dowels.. but my pump is just a smooth finish. Question: Do i still align holes on gasket with the holes on the rear end?
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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