New to Pulling - Page 6

dvogtvpe · #51 10-28-2014, 05:55 PM

one thing you'll learn real quick for pulling the timing mark means nothing. learn to use a dial indicator and a degree wheel and put your own marks on the wheel or start gapping them.

bschmittling · #52 11-16-2014, 01:38 PM

Update, the timing issue is resolved. The mark the original owner put on the flywheel is TDC. I had the timing set on .016. It is now reset to .02 but still wouldn't go above 3600 RPM even with the throttle wide open.

I put a new carburetor on it #26, and now it has no problem going above 4000RPM, so my carburetor must have been worn.

The governor is still set at 3600. Any suggestions on governor settings to get it to 4000 with no load?

I read on Brian Miller's site that you put the spring on the bottom hole of the L shaped bracket and the upper most hole of the throttle cable bracket to increase RPM. Is this correct or is there a better setting for pulling?

Thanks

J-Mech · #53 11-16-2014, 06:18 PM

I really doubt you needed a carb. If you haven't read the service manual on how to set the governor/engine speed you need to do that. The springs have no bearing on engine speed. They just change sensitivity. If your going to go to 4K you need to put a steel flywheel on before you do anything.

dvogtvpe · #54 11-16-2014, 07:10 PM

I suspect nothing is wrong with your other carb that a good cleaning and rebuild wouldn't have taken care of along with proper governor setup. FWIW like it or not. the majority of the stuff on Millers site is plain BS. as Jon stated get a manual and read that. set the governor properly .

bschmittling · #55 11-17-2014, 12:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dvogtvpe

I suspect nothing is wrong with your other carb that a good cleaning and rebuild wouldn't have taken care of along with proper governor setup. FWIW like it or not. the majority of the stuff on Millers site is plain BS. as Jon stated get a manual and read that. set the governor properly .

I have read the manual. The governor is set up per the manual. The old carburetor had a loose throttle shaft and I suspect it was a walbro. I would not go above 3600 rpm even if I opened the throttle wide open by hand. With the new carburetor, it will easily go above 4000 rpm if I open it up by hand. I understand about the cast iron flywheels and the danger of running them above factory settings, but an extra 400 rpm can't be that bad or all the clubs would require limiting the rpm to 3600 or require steel flywheels. A steel flywheel is not an option because this is a working tractor as well as a puller. What I don't want to do is set the governor so the engine goes to 5000 rpm under load. I am looking for a safe governor setting that is competitive. Any suggestions?

J-Mech · #56 11-17-2014, 01:18 AM

3800 RPM.

And a steel flywheel won't keep if from being a "worker". It just makes it safer for you and more importantly, innocent bystanders who don't want shrapnel in their skull.

400 RPM is a lot when your talking engines. 400 RPM is a lot to increase anything..... PERIOD. Go drive you car at 60 and see what the RPM is. Then raise the engine 400 RPM and see how much faster it goes. You should see about a 10 MPH increase on average. That's the difference in 60 and 70. That's quite a bit. The difference between 3600 and 4000 RPM on a cast flywheel is the difference between safe, and possible fly apart.

Listen, I'm going to be kind of frank here. The steel flywheel thing... and some other suggestion that have been made to you are from people who are "in the know". You can choose to listen, or not. It's really up to you. Giving excuses as to why you don't want to do something, or about how "well it can't be that unsafe"..... we know what were talking about and you have already admitted that you are new to this and know nothing. If your asking a question it means you don't know, so it's in your best interest to take advice. Some things..... especially the safety things..... are pretty important. You should listen. If your not into spending money on it, then don't pull it. It's gonna cost some $$$ and that's all there is to it. You could have spent $35 on rebuilding your carb instead of how ever much you spent on a new one and instead used that money toward a new flywheel.

The book tells you how to set engine RPM. Follow the procedure to set it at whatever RPM you want.

bschmittling · #57 11-17-2014, 09:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech

3800 RPM.

And a steel flywheel won't keep if from being a "worker". It just makes it safer for you and more importantly, innocent bystanders who don't want shrapnel in their skull.

400 RPM is a lot when your talking engines. 400 RPM is a lot to increase anything..... PERIOD. Go drive you car at 60 and see what the RPM is. Then raise the engine 400 RPM and see how much faster it goes. You should see about a 10 MPH increase on average. That's the difference in 60 and 70. That's quite a bit. The difference between 3600 and 4000 RPM on a cast flywheel is the difference between safe, and possible fly apart.

Listen, I'm going to be kind of frank here. The steel flywheel thing... and some other suggestion that have been made to you are from people who are "in the know". You can choose to listen, or not. It's really up to you. Giving excuses as to why you don't want to do something, or about how "well it can't be that unsafe"..... we know what were talking about and you have already admitted that you are new to this and know nothing. If your asking a question it means you don't know, so it's in your best interest to take advice. Some things..... especially the safety things..... are pretty important. You should listen. If your not into spending money on it, then don't pull it. It's gonna cost some $$$ and that's all there is to it. You could have spent $35 on rebuilding your carb instead of how ever much you spent on a new one and instead used that money toward a new flywheel.

The book tells you how to set engine RPM. Follow the procedure to set it at whatever RPM you want.

It is not a question of money or not listening. Yes I could have spent $35 to rebuild my old carb. The new one cost $85. The time saved is worth the difference in price to me. It was also over carbureted. A friend of mine at the track wanted a look at it and said it had the biggest venture he had ever seen. He said to get a #30. You guys recommended a #26. I actually sent the #30 back and paid the additional shipping to get a #26 so I am listening.

I have researched steel flywheels and everyone I saw did not have cooling fins on them. I don't see how you can have a working tractor without cooling fins, so obviously I am not understanding something here. Show me what I need to buy and I'll take care of it.

J-Mech · #58 11-17-2014, 09:33 AM

Put an electric fan on it. Or you can use the cast one, just keep it under 4K.

I suggest if you want a worker and a puller, you need to buy another tractor.

bschmittling · #59 11-17-2014, 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Put an electric fan on it. Or you can use the cast one, just keep it under 4K.

I suggest if you want a worker and a puller, you need to buy another tractor.

Do I need a small auto fan or one of those small cyclone style pulling fans?

J-Mech · #60 11-17-2014, 09:54 AM

Your going to need one that moves a lot of air if your going to use it for "working". dvogtvpe or austin might be able to better answer that question.

Let me ask you this.... What do you mean by "worker"? You mean mowing tractor, plow, tiller, or just tugging a cart around? When I talk about my "worker" tractors they pull plows and tillers. Some people think of a worker as the machine they use to pull a cart out to the woods.......