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#11
05-20-2022, 02:19 PM
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Sounds like the magneto took a dump. Avoid the temptation of buying a cheap Chinese replacement. Few have had good luck, and they seem to start harder with them. The OEM Kohler part is 52 584 02-S
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 582, 682, 782, 782D, 1282, 1050, 1210 x 2, 1711, and 1811 
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#12
05-20-2022, 09:51 PM
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Well, I found the fluke and checked the secondary resistance and I'm around 28kohms. Which looks like it's within spec. So, something's up with the kill side of the magneto or the wire is somehow shorting to ground where I can't see it. Or someone was in there and messed with the coil air gap.
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower IH Cub Original with deck #2 cart GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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#13
05-20-2022, 10:36 PM
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I ended up pulling the engine to pull the flywheel tin off to take a look at whats going on, and I found a rather large screw stuck to the side of the magnet and it mangled the outer metal part of the magneto, and took a chunk of plastic off the inner part. It's weird because I checked the resistance of the plug wires and they are within spec, and I checked the resistance of the kill wire connection to ground and it matches what I have on my runner M20 on my 1912. There isn't any damage to the magnet so I was very fortunate there, but I'm magneto shopping now.
 This tractor has been a challenge, but fortunately I had a lot of the parts already here in boxes that it needed, except the magneto, and wiring harness. I even have a good 50C deck sitting waiting for a use. It got bumped out of the starting lineup when I found the Haban 60 for my 1912.
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower IH Cub Original with deck #2 cart GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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#14
05-24-2022, 01:49 PM
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Wow a screw stuck to the magnet. Thats a new one to me anyway. Do
you think it came out one the tins or what? Ken
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#15
05-25-2022, 07:03 AM
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It was a long skinny screw. I’ve been over several of these engines and never saw a screw like that. So I don’t know where it came from.
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower IH Cub Original with deck #2 cart GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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#16
05-25-2022, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
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Why Farm Half When You Can Farmall? 1282 | 44C Deck, Chains, 42" Blade, Cast Weights, 020" Over K301 * 1711 | 50C Deck, #1 Rear Rototiller w/ Extensions, Sleeve Hitch, KT17S Series II 24302 --> CH18S * 1811 | 46 GT Deck, 42" Blade, Chains, M18 Magnum, Sleeve Hitch * 1782 | 60" #375 Deck, Kubota D640 Diesel * 1862 | #450 Snowblower, M18 Magnum * 782 | Y/W KT17 Series II, Sleeve Hitch * 984 | Y/W Onan/Linamar 20HP, Sims Cab, CAT 0 3 PT w/ Rear PTO, 60" #374 Deck
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#17
05-25-2022, 10:39 PM
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The screw (I can't find it now or I would have posted a picture) looked like it COULD be the one that goes into the carb elbow. It was a fine thread about 2" long.
I received a new magneto today, and installed it and put everything back together. I checked and there was good spark. It was a Chinese one, I didn't want to sink too much money into it given I didn't know the status of the engine. My caution was warranted, because I turned the key and it started right up but the engine wouldn't idle. I monkeyed around with the carb settings and I realized there's absolutely no tension on the governor arm when it's running. It's just there flapping in the breeze. I guess that means the governor is in pieces in the bottom of the crankcase and I get to do a full tear down and reassembly.
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower IH Cub Original with deck #2 cart GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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#18
05-25-2022, 10:57 PM
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Ok... nevermind. After I took a deep breath and calmed down, I thought hmmmm maybe it isn't exploded. I looked down in the oil fill and turned it over and saw the governor gear turning. So then I thought 'dummy! Reset the governor adjustment' and after doing that, all is well.
I did find another minor issue though, the input seal to the hydro is gushing like a stuck pig... That's another job for another day.
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower IH Cub Original with deck #2 cart GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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#20
05-26-2022, 01:42 PM
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The input shaft seal is pretty easy to do once the driveshaft is removed. I used SKF 6904(MTD 921-3032) To remove the old seal, I used a drywall screw to grab it, then pulled it and the seal out. To install, I used a appropriate sized deep socket and carefully tapped it into the bore. Ensure that the seal lip is lubed with Hytran prior to installation. A dry start might damage the seal and the leak will return soon.
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582, 682, 782, 782D, 1282, 1050, 1210 x 2, 1711, and 1811
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