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  #21  
Old 10-11-2013, 08:21 AM
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sawdustdad sawdustdad is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cubby102 View Post
Did you try to swap the valves with known good ones?
I have not done that. I do have a pair that came out of my 1650 that are good. could that possibly account for the behavior I am seeing? Rear end locked up (won't roll) and the hydrostat not working?
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  #22  
Old 10-11-2013, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Lincolnmania View Post
that sucks! heres a good pump from one of our members http://www.ebay.com/itm/IH-CUB-CADET...item3cd6f57ff6
I have a good pump lined up, just need to go get it.
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  #23  
Old 10-17-2013, 07:51 PM
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Parts 33.3% of issue,going to get them 5% paying for them 10% time to work on said tractor 52.6% of problem ! I know i've been there !
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  #24  
Old 10-18-2013, 08:56 PM
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I did put a good set of relief valves on the 1450 and it did not fix the problem with the hydro.

I keep trying to set up a time with the owner of the replacement hydro, he's 125 miles away in Suffolk, VA. Between work and striper season, I'm way over-booked. At least I have a job, so I shouldn't complain.
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  #25  
Old 11-03-2013, 05:52 PM
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Well, finally a Sunday at home with a chance to sort out some of the cubs for the winter. Neither my 149 nor the 123 would start, turns out both had dirty points. A little sandpaper between the contacts and both lit off fine. Got the 148, 1450, 149 and 123 all out of the garage, full of gas, treated with Stabil for the winter. Ran them for a little while--the 149 and 123 hadn't run for several (may 6? 9? months).

This little exercise inspired me to spend some time with the 1450 project tractor. Pulled the hydrostat off, and you can see why it wouldn't rotate. There is something inside loose that has jammed against the side of the case, cracking it. I think I'll pull it apart to see what happened, but didn't have time to do that today.

With the hydro off, I was able to roll the chassis up to the workshop in preparation for the reconstruction.

I see now I'll need an ignition switch, too. I'm re-thinking my idea of putting an older K241 into this tractor, since I won't be able to use any PTO driven equipment. I might take a lead from Sam Mac and give this one to my daughter as a grass killer!

I found a K301 from a 1250 for sale on CL locally, so I might go get that. I will also need a set of iso mount rails, as well as two of the bolts and all four rubber mounts. I have front grill castings but no hood or side panels. I have a set of 108 fenders, and will take any other parts needed from the 147 parts tractor (brakes, wide front tire and wheels, ignition switch).

I'm scheduled to get the new (used) ported hydro next week, along with a steering column and wheel.

Obligatory pics:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 2013-11-03 14.53.23.jpg (22.8 KB, 228 views)
File Type: jpg 2013-11-03 14.53.36.jpg (25.9 KB, 228 views)
File Type: jpg 2013-11-03 15.46.17.jpg (27.9 KB, 228 views)
File Type: jpg 2013-11-03 15.46.24.jpg (26.7 KB, 228 views)
File Type: jpg 2013-11-03 15.46.31.jpg (26.6 KB, 228 views)
File Type: jpg 2013-11-03 15.46.11.jpg (27.0 KB, 228 views)
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  #26  
Old 11-03-2013, 07:40 PM
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Something bad happened inside that Hydro to bust the case. If you open it up I hope you post pics. Never seen one do that.
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  #27  
Old 11-03-2013, 10:11 PM
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Thanks for the update and pics.
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  #28  
Old 11-04-2013, 07:07 AM
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On my1250, with out doubt the 2 manual valve buttons are rusted. I was hoping that was my problem not letting the rear wheels free roll, and the tab on the release lever has broke off. Have not had the motor running, yet.

I wonder if someone tried to use the 1450 as a puller. I caught the release valves were in working order. Be a while till I get to mine, though.
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  #29  
Old 11-04-2013, 09:04 AM
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the 1450 had manual release valves, so it must be an early model. the buttons were rusted, so I suspected them, but when I put a good pair of auto release valves in, it didn't help (obvious the reason now). so I really don't know if the manual release valves work or not.

I'll disassemble the hydro and post pics on what I find. the splined output shaft rotates about 180 degrees, then stops in either direction and I can feel something hitting the inside of the case.
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  #30  
Old 11-04-2013, 04:55 PM
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good luck on the repair
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