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#1
09-02-2010, 10:23 PM
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Shed doors
Hello, just put a shed in my yard for my new Cub Addiction and the doors suck !!! Can someone post some pictures of the inside of your doors so I can see how they are reinforced and framed out......Mine are very weak and since its new I want to address it now. here is my Man Cave....
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#3
09-02-2010, 10:57 PM
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some handy lattice work
I am better at wood than cubs.....Here is the lattice work I did last week.
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#4
09-02-2010, 11:06 PM
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"Can someone post some pictures of the inside of your doors so I can see how they are reinforced and framed out......Mine are very weak and since its new I want to address it now."
I'll try to get you some pics tomorrow...
__________________
nra1ifer  Cub Cadet 123, Wheel Horse C160, Craftsman PGT9000, Speedex 1631
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#5
09-03-2010, 10:34 PM
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That is a very nice cub shop! Nice work indeed.
__________________
IH CUB CADET 1450, 72, 86, 1211, IH #2 CART, IH 56" SNOW BLADE, COLLECTING CUB CADET ENGINES
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#7
12-19-2010, 10:36 AM
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Probably too late now (I haven't looked at this subject for a while), but what I would do is to remove the support structure you have on the back side of the door now. The 2X4s are just too heavy. It will eventually ruin the hinges or tear the screws out of the door frame, due to the flex that setup allows.
Take your doors down and make a framework of 1x3s or 1x4s laid flat around the perimeter of the backside of the door, similar to the trimwork on the front, then make an "X" in the middle with the same material, from corner to corner. Glue and screw it to the back of the doors. Then take a sheet of 1/4" plywood or door-skin Luan (it's like cheap mahogany for door skins) and glue and screw it to the 1X3 framework. 1-1/4" drywall screws will work fine (just don't put them in places that will punch all the way through the front of the door). That will make a sandwich that will stiffen up the doors while not adding a lot of weight. You can also fill the center gaps with 3/4" blue foam insulation (before you add the back door skin of course) for more stiffness, as well as improve the insulation value of the doors. Don't let the 1/4" back fool you. It's the sandwich that makes the strength, not the door skin. If you want even more stiffness and stronger doors, use 2x2s for the framework, 2" foam, and 1/4" ply for the back. It's overkill for your needs, but it makes a heck of a door. Watch your (and the kids') fingers! Oh yeah. One last bit of advice. Make sure you build the doors on a perfectly flat surface (worktable or floor), because whatever curvature there is on the building surface will be built into the door and you will not be able to correct it later. edit: Oops. I just noticed the pics of the backsides of the doors are not yours. Well, the same principles apply.
__________________
Tony Stafford, VA 1650, 682...
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#8
11-30-2011, 02:45 PM
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I am going to replace the doors on my mini barn/shed with one of these:
http://www.selfstoragedoors.com/ I can get one for my shed for about 200 bucks. A lot more secure and I can have it connected to my wireless house alarm
__________________
 1964 Model 70 that Dad bought new. Lights, fenders, creeper, 38 inch deck, Brinly plow, sleeve hitch, and lift assist.
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#9
11-30-2011, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
__________________
DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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