109, 129, 149, 169 OEM CV style Joint Drive shaft

[149 Cubby]

Hey everyone,

I'm working on a replacement Drive shaft for models listed about. I hate that self aligning connection at the motor and the rag connection at the pump. I have owned my 149 for 35+ years and have replaced those cheap connections and drive shaft just one too many times.

The drive shaft will consist of a Cub Cadet OEM Drive shaft from the Cyclopes area with grease fittings to keep it lubed. It will be a direct bolt on assembly with no fabrication at all. I'm working with a local machinest to fabricate the pump adapter and from there the drive shaft will bolt right up to those Kohlers on the tractors for the models listed above. I will most likely have the final details worked out soon. The OEM drive shaft that fits was only made for 4 different models and are hard to find, so I'm working with Extreme Motor works to fabricate the drive shafts and maybe the pump adapter.

Cost for total assembly has yet to be determined but I'm putting the proto type on my Cub this weekend.
Location ohio 45879
This item will be able to be shipped

I'm listing this to see if interest is out there for this style of drive shaft.
You can email me on this if you're interested

iuseautodesk at gmail dot com

[J-Mech]

Sam Mac on here already makes one..... Several members have already bought them.

[149 Cubby]

Didn't know that. Got a link to his post?

[Sam Mac]

I moved this thread because it is not a for sale add but more of I am going to make these type of thing. I'm all for the idea but when you have them for sale with a price then list it in the for sale section.

[149 Cubby]

I didn't know any one had the same idea. I apologise for stepping on your toes

[Sam Mac]

Originally Posted by 149 Cubby

I didn't know any one had the same idea. I apologise for stepping on your toes

Your not stepping on my toes. I'm all for you developing something that will help get these tractors off "The Rag Joint" I'll be glad to help you with the project. I don't have time to get into a production deal. Maybe between the two of us we can come up with something for the older stuff. Most of my work has been for the 72 series and up and at that it has been pretty much just the Supers. I'll be glad to share what I've learned with you.

[mike melillo]

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

Yep. Here is one in a 1772.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...t=25706&page=3
I have a pump adapter for your tractor. I'm using the 2000 series shafts, found a way to shorten them. Looked into doing them with the CV joints but the cost to make the splines was out of sight plus the 2000 need no maintenance. The shaft sitting on the jack stands is for a 1572. The adapter on the left is what you need for the older pumps.

Sam, I like the idea because I really hate replacing the adaptor parts on these tractors, never mind the cost, but I wonder about removing the pivoting characteristics. Can you tell me a little about the experience with these designs?

How long have they been in service?

Looking at the image the length looks fixed, and there is no mobility in any angular direction. Does this cause any alignment issues, either during initial install, or while in service?

Mike

[ACecil]

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

Guys
Here’s the deal on the 2000 shafts. The ends act like a CV joint. If you look at the pick of the end it has 8 round plastic barrel shaped pieces that allow the shaft to flex. It can also move fore and aft about 1/8”. Not sure I’d try it on a QL with the rubber mounts but the tractors that have the engine mounted solid should be fine. This is something you guys that are handy with tools should be able to do yourself. What you do is pick up a used 2000 series shaft from one of the sponsors, Flea Bay etc. Buy a piece of 5/8” shaft. Cut the drive shaft into 2 pieces whatever length you need to make it fit and insert the 5/8” shaft inside the 2000 shaft. Then you can drill it for the spirol pins or weld it. The other thing that can be done is to cut the toothed end off the tube in a lathe then cut the tube to the proper length and weld the toothed end back on the tube. I’ve done them both ways. I’d like to get my hands on something like a 129 and make one up and detail the build for you guys. If any of you guys want to help with the development and can loan me your tractor I’ll build you one for just the cost of the parts.

Sam, want to build one for my 1872?

[mike melillo]

nice work, looks good.

Mike

[149 Cubby]

I didn't realize the interest in getting away from the rag joint.

Sam Mac, you stated no maintenance to the barrel style joint. You saying that these plastic barrels don't go bad or where out or are you saying you don't have to grease them.

I haven't had the time to check with the mic's, but a question has arose for me for the CV joint. Can the part #14 on an 1862 drive line (splines to the shaft) be bored to fit the shaft without splines? Then drilled with four holes for set screws? At the same time, drill into the shaft 1/16 to 1/8 depth to allow for a seating/locking point for the set screws?

If the four set screws would take the torque, all that needs done is cut shaft to length, bore that splined ball seat to fit unsplined shaft, drill & tap four holes, add four set screws. Done. install shaft. OH, don't forget to grease it.