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  #21  
Old 01-27-2016, 06:33 PM
Bigsauce Bigsauce is offline
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I kept on hitting it and it's finally loosened. It took awhile though and a few hard hits with a hammer/punch.

Update:

I have now unbolted the oil pan, disconnected the rod from the crank, removed the piston and rod. All that is left to remove is the camshaft, governor gear, and lifters. I also still have to remove the bearings from the pto side of the crank. After that I'm gonna take the block and crank to the machine shop!
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  #22  
Old 01-29-2016, 02:24 PM
Bigsauce Bigsauce is offline
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Thanks for the help with the eccentric collar guys. Just thinking ahead, should I have the block acid dipped or bead blasted to remove the grease/paint/rust off the block and cooling fins?
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  #23  
Old 01-29-2016, 05:21 PM
Yosemite Sam Yosemite Sam is offline
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I personally don't blast anything that ends up with bearings or other tight tolerance moving parts running in it. It's too easy for blast media to hide in there and show itself later. I do realize that honing will leave behind some remnants of stone grit, but hopefully the machine shop will be able to wash it all away, I'm not going to add to an already potential problem.

Right, wrong or otherwise, blasting an engine block, gearbox case or other like parts, is not a chance I'm willing to take.

Others will argue the point, if that's how they want to do it's fine by me, but I will not and I really don't care how long they've been doing it that way.
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  #24  
Old 01-29-2016, 05:52 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Have the block "dipped" in a caustic tank. Most machine shops can do it.
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  #25  
Old 01-29-2016, 09:23 PM
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olds45512 olds45512 is offline
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Have the block "dipped" in a caustic tank. Most machine shops can do it.
None of the machine shops in my area have a hot tank, the epa has regulated it to death apparently so most of them are using hot water washers.
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  #26  
Old 01-29-2016, 11:40 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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None of the machine shops in my area have a hot tank, the epa has regulated it to death apparently so most of them are using hot water washers.
That's not an all bad choice. I have a "jet tank". If your not familiar, it's like a gigantic dishwasher for parts. (I can get a DT466 engine block in it.) It has a heating element, and you can run several types of solvents in it. I chose water and some special detergents. I can peel the paint off most all engine components (including engine blocks). On most IH stuff, it won't take the primer off, but it will "melt" the regular paint right off. Only bad thing is, that it does take several hours (sometimes a day) to get everything really clean. Also, since it's water based you need to rinse the parts off immediately or they get a film on them from the detergent and will tend to surface rust. The detergent I use has a rust inhibitor, but sometimes the ratio of cleaner to water gets off because of evaporation. I have to add water regularly, which means occasionally detergent too. When the mix doesn't seem to be working well, I dump it and start over. Nice thing is it's "environmentally" so I can dump it down the drain. I get away with that because I have a trap that catches the heavy metals, oil and other "stuff" that they don't want in a waste water treatment facility. There are still places here that have a caustic tank. I didn't chose to go caustic for two reasons: 1.) Just like you stated, regulation. 2.) I wanted to be able to clean aluminum or steel/cast. Caustic will eat aluminum.
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  #27  
Old 01-29-2016, 11:45 PM
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yea we have a big washer at the shop also, we mostly use it for the transmissions we rebuild.
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  #28  
Old 01-30-2016, 12:15 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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yea we have a big washer at the shop also, we mostly use it for the transmissions we rebuild.
I figured you knew what I was talking about...... but others may not. I really like the results I get cleaning aluminum trans cases.
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  #29  
Old 01-30-2016, 08:37 AM
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I figured you knew what I was talking about...... but others may not. I really like the results I get cleaning aluminum trans cases.
We rebuild Ford select o speeds and they have a cast iron case, even with all the guts out of them you still have to use the gantry crane to load them in the washer. Here's a link to the washer we have.
http://www.renegadepartswashers.com/...rts_washer.htm
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  #30  
Old 01-30-2016, 09:18 AM
mickb72 mickb72 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olds45512 View Post
We rebuild Ford select o speeds and they have a cast iron case, even with all the guts out of them you still have to use the gantry crane to load them in the washer. Here's a link to the washer we have.
http://www.renegadepartswashers.com/...rts_washer.htm
Wow, a person who rebuilds Fords select o speeds! I've read those guys are few and far between. Most people are afraid of them. What's a common problem and maybe a repair cost? Keep up the good work. Mike
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