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  #1  
Old 03-18-2010, 08:56 PM
zekepiks zekepiks is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Portage MI
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Default 108 clutch adjustment

I have a 108 that had a bad 10hp so I replaced it with a overhualed 12hp that I had and went by the book on how to adjust the clutch but when I fininished it up and started it the clutch will not totaly disengage so it grinds into gear,(because of a money shortage I used the old clutch disk that had about a 1/16 inch wear to the face of it) And there was some wear to one of the clutch plates, Does this mean I have to pull everything again and replace the disk or are there some old tricks to try, Also, could somebody give me some ideas as to what might be draining my good battery dead when the key is turned off , It has no lights, Sorry for such a long post and thanks in advance Skip
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  #2  
Old 03-18-2010, 10:49 PM
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Matt G. Matt G. is offline
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Did you lube the pilot bushing?
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  #3  
Old 03-19-2010, 12:19 AM
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young enthusiest young enthusiest is offline
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The rod that pulls on the clutch hanger arm than pulls on the bearing. The rod is adjustable. Try to tighten it up a little, I don't think your clutch is disengageing all the way
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Old 03-19-2010, 08:30 PM
zekepiks zekepiks is offline
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Default 108 clutch

as per matt's reply yes I did lube everything and as y.e's post I wasn't sure if I could go anymore on the threads but I guess I could install some washers I had to move it out of the garage so my son could work on his bronco and when I went to start it to bring it back into the garage my other problem had taken it's toll. My freshly charged battery from yesterday was deader than a doornail The key is off but something drains it, Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks, Skip
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Old 03-20-2010, 02:00 AM
Yosemite Sam Yosemite Sam is offline
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I would think that the first thing you would want to check would be the battery itself, once in awhile a battery will be/go bad for some unexplained reason, unhook it charge it up and let it set (unhooked) overnight, if you have a load tester (or know someone who does) check it with that.

If the battery turns out good then you're gonna hafta hook it back up and find out where the draw is coming from, could be stuck points in the V/R, a dead short in a wire, or any number of other things. Wiring diagrams are in the tech section on the main page, that should at least get you started.

Such a small amount of wear on the clutch disk should not be much of a problem. You may want to get an exploded view of the clutch/drive shaft and look it over carefully to make sure it's put back together correctly, it isn't at all hard to put one together wrong, check your throw out bearing to be sure it's put in the right way. After that, with the engine NOT running, push the pedal down with your hand and watch and feel the clutch and related parts to make sure they all are doing what they are supposed to be doing. I've heard that the anti-rattle springs on the three pin driver/clutch disk can cause the clutch disk to "hang up" and not want to release properly.

Good Luck and let us know what you find out.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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