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  #11  
Old 04-18-2012, 11:09 PM
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MWShaw MWShaw is offline
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I think we are making progress, could possibly be cutting grass this weekend?

Crank cleaning;


Checking the bearing alignment;


Crank and cam in place;



Putting con rods on;


Installing the cover plate;


Pulled the valves out;


That genset motor definatly sat outside and got water in it.


After blasting;
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  #12  
Old 04-18-2012, 11:17 PM
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MWShaw MWShaw is offline
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Used lapping compound to lap the valves back in;


Should be good;


Lightly blasted the heads also;


Got the cylinders insatlled;



Then the heads and tins;



Couple of odds and ends tomorrow.

I have to get the little breather element that goes under the baffle on the one cylinder.

Then finish up the motor, squirt some black paint on it.

Clean the chassis up, install the motor, install the remote oil filter, install the oil pressure gauge, and then?
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  #13  
Old 04-19-2012, 01:22 AM
Methos Methos is offline
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Awesome workmanship and pics!
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  #14  
Old 04-19-2012, 06:01 AM
Vince_o Vince_o is offline
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Looks good! I cant tell from the pics where the valve is seating on the lap. It should be right in the center of the valve face. If it isnt then you need to move it, by cutting the seat. Then lap it to see where the valve is seating. I know all about engs under water! Ill be rebuilding one of mine this winter.
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  #15  
Old 04-19-2012, 07:04 AM
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Just a afterthought, did the valve clearance work out ok?
You 'prolly had to adjust the length of the valves as there is no "adjustment"
on the lifter. if not, now is the time to take care of that.
looking good so far!
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  #16  
Old 04-19-2012, 11:21 AM
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Glad you're making some good progress! Thanks for the pics.
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  #17  
Old 04-19-2012, 08:45 PM
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I would clean those heads up with a sheet of glass and sandpaper. What you have now is probably not going to seal well. And now it's too late, but do not sandblast aluminum...it creates a whole bunch of little stress risers that can/will initiate cracks.
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  #18  
Old 04-19-2012, 08:57 PM
Vince_o Vince_o is offline
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George is right, the tourque speck on the jugs if I remember right is like 10 lbs. And if your clearance isnt right and you have to grind them, if you dont grind them right they wont spin in the guide. Then if its too open you have to cut the seat. When you cut the seat, and then lap, the lap tells you where your seating at. It took me a bit to get the M18 on the 1872 right. Ive only cut seats 3 times, so Im still green at it. My boss used to build Jr drag cars for a race team so hes been teaching me. Lots to be learned in the head work.

I saves a 14 hp block that needs resleved with the big intake and exaust valves. Ill do some porting and polishing on this block and hop it up like the 10 hp I have.

When I worked at Cat and after hours I would sand blast parts, I was told by some of the guys in the shop that heads shouldnt be sand blasted of these engs. Dont know if its true or not, but never have. I use alum cleaner for the fuel tanks on trucks to clean them. And I have a piece of flat granite in my shop that I use to check them. Any piece of glass will work fine too, as long as your wife isnt looking at the coffee table!
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  #19  
Old 04-20-2012, 07:46 AM
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MWShaw MWShaw is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ol'George View Post
Just a afterthought, did the valve clearance work out ok?
You 'prolly had to adjust the length of the valves as there is no "adjustment"
on the lifter. if not, now is the time to take care of that.
looking good so far!
I was careful keep the tappets and valves in thier original locations, so the cylinder that was orignal to the genset crankcase, the valve clearances came out .004" on the intake, and .012' on the exhaust, I did not have to adjust at all. On the cylinder that was off of the Cub crankcase, those were zeroed out. I had to grind the valve stems, on each valve. Intake ended up @ .003 / exhaust @ .012"

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt G. View Post
I would clean those heads up with a sheet of glass and sandpaper. What you have now is probably not going to seal well. And now it's too late, but do not sandblast aluminum...it creates a whole bunch of little stress risers that can/will initiate cracks.
Ok, Thanks for the heads up. I'll pull those heads off and replace them with the ones from the genset engine. I tried to use as much of the genset engine as I could, because it was such a low hour unit, but the heads each had (1) of the 1/4-20 screws broke off in them. The screws that retain the tins. No biggie, I'll drill those out and retap them.

In my defense, the tip of the sand blaster never came within 18" of the heads, I was just trying to remove the carbon. I could have sworn I read that in the service manual, where it was a recomended proceedure. But after I read you comment I went back and rechecked it, and it is not there. I must have seeing things. I have not fired the engine up yet, so I think it will be fine.

I did get it bolted back into the tractor yesterday afternoon, man that rear bolt on the starter side . Wow, I had to walk away from it for a minute, and take a break.

I am working out the location of the remote filter head, most likely I'll put it below the gas tank. I am a little bummed about the oil pressure gauge. The only spot on the dash board where It will fit is rigth where it say "Cub Cadet" embossed in the plastic dash. But oh well. Such is life I guess.

Does anyone have a pic of a 782 engine compartment with the wires acbles hooked up, I'm having brain fade with the throttle cable / governer configuration. I thougth I took more pictures, before disassembly, but I guess not.

Thanks for all the help.
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  #20  
Old 04-20-2012, 07:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Mac View Post
Don't know if you put a new Gov gear in or if your using the old one,but if it was me I'd put a new one in. It seems to be a common failure issue as the get older.
Some how I missed this one? I did use the complete assembly from the cub motor.

Well I'm think I'm gonna risk it, as it would require splitting the cases back down.
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