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  #11  
Old 02-04-2012, 06:24 PM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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The pto end cover comes off easily exposing the pressue relief valve,make sure it slides free and the relief port/passage/hole is free of debre,so the excess pressure/flow can escape.
While you have the seal out on the flywheel side, look to see if there is a oil drainback hole and it is not plugged.
I can't remember as its been a while but it should be on the bottom.
That thing running hot and with no oil while the gear was broken, could cause a lot of problems internally.
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  #12  
Old 02-04-2012, 06:45 PM
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thanks i wasnt sure how i should check the relief ball and spring to make sure its working but now i have an idea and i will look for the oil drain back hole. right now its all on hold until i can get another seal monday but until then i will check the relief passage
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  #13  
Old 02-04-2012, 07:04 PM
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I missed the broken gear part.

Long storys are good, the more detail the better, to me anyway.
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  #14  
Old 02-04-2012, 08:16 PM
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The gauze pad will let it breath w/o sucking in dirt.
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  #15  
Old 02-04-2012, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tater305 View Post
thanks i wasnt sure how i should check the relief ball and spring to make sure its working but now i have an idea and i will look for the oil drain back hole. right now its all on hold until i can get another seal monday but until then i will check the relief passage
I just looked up the pressure in the kohler manual online, and it says as high as #50
Are you getting genuine seals from Cub and are they the right #seal?
Are they a tight fit in the Crank case and slip snugly but not overly tight, on the crank?
I tore down an engine with two seals installed back to back and they were both wrong! ( of course it leaked) Ha,LOL!
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  #16  
Old 02-05-2012, 12:50 AM
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the seals are genuine kohler and yes they are the right ones, they fit snug like they should but not too tight. maybe that is my problem too much oil pressure I should also add that 60lbs was at idle COLD not warmed up but on a dead cold start and close to 75lbs half open I never got to see it wide open or at operating temps cause it would puke out the oil seal before that happened.
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  #17  
Old 02-05-2012, 07:09 PM
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well pulled the back plate off and inspected the relief ball/spring the sleeve was a little rusted so i replaced it with one i had laying around that was good and I noticed the spring from another engine had smaller coils(like thinner) on the spring and the spring out of my engine was a little stiffer(thicker coils) so I am taking a gamble and changed it out we will see what happens when i get the new seal I must have nicked the new one when i put it in cause there was a small cut in it and that is were it was leaking so lets see if i can do this again but i am going to run the motor off a belt off my sears and see what the oil pressure is before i put it back in the tractor and start it
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  #18  
Old 02-09-2012, 06:17 PM
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Any way you can run it on the bench before put it in? It's not a big deal to set it up to run. Just my 2 cents.
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  #19  
Old 02-10-2012, 01:06 AM
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yes i actually to this all the time I have a wood work bench that have holes drilled in it for kohler and briggs but i spun the motor over using a belt and my sears and a new seal didnt work it still leaked so the motor is getting replaced with another engine. The seals arnt cheap and a engine replacement is seeing as I have another engine to put in it. will post pictures when I am done
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  #20  
Old 02-11-2012, 06:12 AM
Vince_o Vince_o is offline
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Tater

Wish we were closer Id take that eng off your hands.

I ment to look but Im getting busy at work to see how much I can get a Kohler and a vanguard for you guys. I know we just got a 30 hp briggs for a z turn from briggs for 1000. We are close to the same prices as SEW on some stuff.
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