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  #11  
Old 06-09-2021, 03:42 PM
nothercrash nothercrash is offline
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Pics should appear...
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File Type: jpg k161 tiller coil.jpg (31.4 KB, 41 views)
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  #12  
Old 06-09-2021, 06:23 PM
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ironman ironman is offline
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In my old parts book it looks like your coil is p/n 234422 which is superceded by the one mortten listed (4775520S).
So your options are live with it, spend around $160 bucks, or take a chance on the chy-knees junk for about $15. Good luck!
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  #13  
Old 06-09-2021, 10:33 PM
nothercrash nothercrash is offline
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Well I appreciate that info, but I do want to be clear about my original question: You feel strongly that the engine isn't likely to just be worn out? I know the coil might be the problem, but the rings, bore, valves, seats, etc are also 45 years old, and it strikes me that they too could cause a general unwillingness to run. But you guys are saying this doesn't sound like that? Essentially, if it'll get up and run decently sometimes, the key internal surfaces are likely good enough that it should run all the time?
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  #14  
Old 06-09-2021, 10:47 PM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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there is no way in hell to look at an engine and access it's condition.
I've seen engines that smoked badly, leaked oil more than an old Harley,
and knocked like a Diesel, yet ran properly.
The only real way you will know the condition is tear it down.
Me, I'd get an inexpensive coil and see if it runs better.
Also you could have a bad "new" carb that you mentioned you replaced.
They all ain't winners out of the box.
Did you try the original carb?
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  #15  
Old 06-10-2021, 07:02 AM
nothercrash nothercrash is offline
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Yeah. I ran the carb briefly as I got it, then tore it down, soaked it, blew it out, new needle, new gasket, adjusted float, screws to factory settings first, then adjusted through the whole range to try to get it to catch on, no different results. Then went through the same process with the new carb, no big change in run.
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  #16  
Old 06-10-2021, 07:20 AM
nothercrash nothercrash is offline
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With the spark plug out and contacting the head, there's a visible spark when turned over. Still possibly coil? I know spark strength is important..
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  #17  
Old 06-10-2021, 09:00 AM
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Going back and reading your original post brings thought to my mind that you didn't mention anything about the governor....
The part where you say "moving the throttle upsets the balance" gives me suspicion.
The K161, etc. have a strange setup for the governor. Have you checked into that area?
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  #18  
Old 06-10-2021, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nothercrash View Post
With the spark plug out and contacting the head, there's a visible spark when turned over. Still possibly coil? I know spark strength is important..
it is hard to say, on coils at times I've seen what was a a feeble spark, yet the engine ran well. On something that old, and it looks to possibly be weathered, then the coil shorts between the windings while operating, that cannot be measured or seen, other than cracking on the outside of the coil.
Then again I've seen coils that were cracked to hell and I knew they were junk yet they worked well.
One thing sure, when the insulation gives up, the coil will go bad sooner or later. You have replaced parts, it really sounds like a condenser, but you replaced that. Condensers are sneeky little shits, they will idle all day long but cough sputter,and
piddle all over themselves if you increase the throttle.
Try a cheapo imported coil. Hell it's only money, you can't take it with you, and the Gubber-mint prints it everyday without backing of any kind.
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  #19  
Old 06-11-2021, 07:21 AM
nothercrash nothercrash is offline
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Yeah I ordered a cheap coil. I checked the governor adjustment initially, was adjusted properly, at least on the outside. Obviously haven't been inside yet.

I could see some oil starting to drip past the head gasket and since I had all the tin off and my local Napa has a head gasket for $10 I popped that off too. The gasket was alright, leaking but not significant compression loss, fire ring totally intact. But, it looks like someone ran a piece of metal into the intake at some point. The piston and head had about 100 deep dings in them each. Looks like someone realized the issue and shut down immediately, and took the head off to get the item out. No scoring on the bore though, surprisingly. Bore looks somewhat worn at the bottom, but I don't have a snap gauge. Valves look to be seating properly.
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  #20  
Old 06-11-2021, 08:39 AM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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Check to see if all of the butterfly screws (throttle and choke plate) are in place and staked.
Could have been an air cleaner mount screw as well.
Are the valves adjusted to spec?
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