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  #21  
Old 04-30-2010, 01:08 PM
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toyman toyman is offline
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BEAUTIFUL restoration!
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  #22  
Old 04-30-2010, 01:09 PM
cledford cledford is offline
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I saw in his other thread where he decided NOT to cross brace. I'd be interested in hearing why. I'm trying to decide wether I need to or not.

A huge ditto (!) on the grits and instructions for sanding! I figured I was going to have to pay out the wazoo for professional painting, his results give me hope!

Calvin
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  #23  
Old 04-30-2010, 04:30 PM
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Mike1450 Mike1450 is offline
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I can't say I'm a pro painter / body shop guy, but it appears it worked out. My 1450 did not have a lot of heavy rust except in the Battery area. Most of the rust was surface rust, chips and faded paint from years of use.

Depending on what parts I was finishing I changed things up a little.

For the rear end I wired brushed the unit down very good, bare metal areas got sprayed with Permatex rust inhibitor, let dry for 24 hours. Came back and rubbed it with 220 grit paper. Wiped it down with mineral spirits to make sure there was no oil, grease and dirt. Sprayed it with primer 2 coats, then 2 coats yellow.

Frame, sheet metal etc.. Started with 180 grit, then 220. All rusted areas got down to bare metal and sprayed with inhibitor. Sanded lightly. First coat of primer let dry. Filled in any deep pitted areas with a bondo filler. Let dry and sanded down smooth applied a second coat of primer. Once dried lightly wet sanded with 1200 grit. Dry overnight. Apply first coat of finish, dry overnight wet sanded with 1200 grit, dry applied finish coat. Everything got 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of finish paint except the fenders which got an extra coat of finish.

In the battery box area I did use a hand grinder with a #36 pad, wirer brush, small sand blaster and different sand papers. This was the worst area I had and of coarse the tightest to get into.

The front cast iron piece I soaked it in a chemical paint stripper then wired brushed it down. Then applied rust inhibitor, primed and painted like above.

Front axle I used my little sand blaster outside made it easier with all the little areas. Then did the same as above front piece.

Once all together I hit the fenders hood and side panel with a little rubbing compound and she buffed up like a mirror.

This will start a debate -

Engine mount: I chose not to do the Engine mount cross brace, I'm not saying it right or wrong I could not justify it benefits. I thought along time on this and discussed with a lot of my engineering counter parts at work. We could not come to a solid conclusion of the benefit. If the engine bolts are tight and not lose then the cross bar has no effect. If they are lose we can see it not allowing the individual brackets to bend, flex etc... My original ISO mounts did fail last year but from years of use, oil grease grim outside element. All my engine bolts were solid and tight. I could not complain because they served me well since the factory installed them in 1976.

I did replace all four iso mounts with new CC mounts. The new replacements are larger and stiffer this should also help the engine brackets from twisting. I'm not saying what I did is right or wrong it was just my choice. If the new mounts last 34 years like the old mounts I will be just as happy!

My 1450 ran smooth little vibration before the makeover, so far she is running smooth after. I'm not sure if I would even notice the difference at this point if I added the brace.

I hope this helps
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  #24  
Old 05-02-2010, 12:29 AM
GERKS 149 GERKS 149 is offline
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Mike,

Great restoration! You should be proud. I am in the middle of my 149 restoration. Currently in about 500 pieces and gathering the needed parts.

Mark
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  #25  
Old 05-02-2010, 06:26 AM
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Mountain Heritage Mountain Heritage is offline
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Great job Mike! That thing looks pretty sweet for being painted with a rattle can. Just wondering, how many did it take? :biggrin2.gif:
Great job on the detailed description of your entire procedure as well as the pictures. You should be one heck of a proud owner of that 1450.....I know I certainly would be if I was in your shoes. I am sure your father would be very proud to see it now.
Enjoy mowing with that beauty......think the wife will fight ya to mow the lawn now? Watch you don't get stuck with the mop or the rag to dust!!
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  #26  
Old 05-02-2010, 08:30 AM
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Mike1450 Mike1450 is offline
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MH,

It took me 8 can's of yellow and 5 cans of white for the tractor.

Some tips on using the rattle cans:

1) Keep them mixed up, shake several time while painting
2) First when you get them shake them up a lot and sit them on the bench up side down. (The paint will settle to the top, but while you use it the paint will move towards the bottom)
3) Spray with even strokes in one direction, not back and forth.
4) Spray the paint until the surface looks wet and shiney almost to the running point. (takes some practice to do this)
5) Wet sand between coats, this keep the surface smooth
6) do not let the can get to the bottom, on larger pieces the will spit paint then and leave spots. I saved these cans for smaller parts

I think Dad would be proud of the makeover! I now he always loved a nice running machine and took care of them as well. I guess he passed it on to me. He's not here now but while working on the project and using the manuals he wrote to guide me I could always hear his voice telling me the next step.

He always joked and told me that the Cadet will be here longer then he would be. I think he knew it all along but now I tell my son's the same thing and with the makeover this dad knows that for sure also!
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  #27  
Old 05-02-2010, 09:36 AM
Methos Methos is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike1450 View Post
MH,

It took me 8 can's of yellow and 5 cans of white for the tractor.

Some tips on using the rattle cans:

1) Keep them mixed up, shake several time while painting
2) First when you get them shake them up a lot and sit them on the bench up side down. (The paint will settle to the top, but while you use it the paint will move towards the bottom)
3) Spray with even strokes in one direction, not back and forth.
4) Spray the paint until the surface looks wet and shiney almost to the running point. (takes some practice to do this)
5) Wet sand between coats, this keep the surface smooth
6) do not let the can get to the bottom, on larger pieces the will spit paint then and leave spots. I saved these cans for smaller parts

I think Dad would be proud of the makeover! I now he always loved a nice running machine and took care of them as well. I guess he passed it on to me. He's not here now but while working on the project and using the manuals he wrote to guide me I could always hear his voice telling me the next step.

He always joked and told me that the Cadet will be here longer then he would be. I think he knew it all along but now I tell my son's the same thing and with the makeover this dad knows that for sure also!
That's awesome Mike! Looks like the apple doesn't fall to far from the tree. We spend our youth trying not to be like your parents and our adult lifes trying to be like them.
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  #28  
Old 04-29-2011, 11:09 PM
AndyCap AndyCap is offline
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Great restore, and pictures!! The bit about painting was extremely informative as well.

I have a 1450 I am about to do teh same thing with, and get more excited with every thread I see like this.

That is one proud Cub!
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  #29  
Old 04-30-2011, 10:09 AM
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Mike1450 Mike1450 is offline
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The 1450 is a great tractor! It has never failed to do its job with the power it has in it. After the rebuild you can feel the renewed life she has in her on every hill and pushing piles of snow this past winter.

It just past a year since the rebuild and she has 89 hours now, run great. I just change over from snow plowing to mowing equipment and cut the grass yesterday with a big smile on my face.

You will enjoy the time working on your 1450 and it will turn out well. Enjoy it!
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  #30  
Old 05-02-2011, 11:46 PM
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CC1450 CC1450 is offline
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I just read through the thread in it's entirety without skipping to the after pics for the first time and realized you said your father wrote the manual for the 1450. I just wanted to thank you for sharing that. While I just have a scanned .pdf file of it at the moment, I will look at it with a greater appreciation now in the future. It's one of those things you just never really think about, the author of an owners manual. Great story and a great restoration. These tractors are truly a functional part of American history.
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