My 1912 PM

[sorner]

I took the tunnel cover off to have a look see inside because there’s a growing amount of black dirt up around the pump and I wanted to clean it out. Turns out a new input shaft seal is in my future. I followed the wetness of the black gunk up there to it.

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Is the 1912 really a splined shaft pump? Or did someone replace this at some point?

[Sam Mac]

All supers had the spline pump.

[ol'George]

After ya clean all the crud off, use it and watch where the oil is coming from,
it might be the release valves, and not the pump seal.

[sorner]

I was considering the release valves when I first started looking at it, but it's very sopping wet right around the shaft where the seal is. Maybe they are leaking under the built up crud and there's a channel of fluid leaking down over the shaft and making it look like there's a leak at the seal. I'll definitely clean it up and make sure before I go tearing that apart anyway, because I don't want that black mud all over my garage floor anyway if I do have to pull the rear for that seal. While I'm at it I might just go all the way and do the cork while I have it apart.

[ol'George]

If it is the pump seal, after you remove the rag joint assy, you can access the seal.
(don't know how easily your rag comes off)
Some require loosing the motor to slide for clearance.

[sorner]

That's what I did when I replaced the front shaft to engine coupler last summer. That got me the clearance I needed to do that, so it should work for the rear also.

[sorner]

I went ahead and pulled the rear to clean it up and go over it. I had never changed the fluid or filter in it since I got it. I do not believe the check valves are leaking after cleaning it up and really looking at it. I went to Messicks yesterday and picked up that front hydro seal for $10, some other gaskets and seals, etc. While I was at it, I pulled the axle tubes and drilled the drain holes in the case and put a set of 30mm axles and tubes in it I had lying around. I almost pulled the trigger on a cast iron rear swap for the additional weight, but the one I have extra is from a 123 with the internal brake, and I would have to put disk brakes on it to keep the dual independent brakes, and had no place to connect the internal brake. I didn't want to have that be just hanging loose under there so I decided to stay with the aluminum case, it's in good shape, not cracked anywhere. I also didn't feel like ripping both apart to swap the reduction gear. I did that before in my old tractor.

[sorner]

Still bone dry. The front hydro pump seal was the winner.

[ol'George]

Glad all is well!