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  #11  
Old 03-12-2019, 11:05 PM
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sawdustdad sawdustdad is offline
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I use a lot of the IH rattle cans.

Once I had the colors mixed in a one part PPG paint intended for airplanes. Forget the name. Colors were spot on, but I only used that for one tractor so far.

The rattle cans are sure convenient, and if you are careful you can get a nice finish.
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  #12  
Old 03-12-2019, 11:38 PM
CubbyRI CubbyRI is offline
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About rattle cans - I am trying to learn from a past mistake, 3 years ago I restored an antique single cylinder engine and gearbox. I had the castings sandblasted ($100) and primed the bare cast iron with spray can epoxy primer - you release something and the epoxy mixes in the spray can and you only get that one use. Took I think two cans which now cost $31 a can! It is a very tough coating. But for a top coat I just used rustoleum spray can enamel. BIG mistake. For one thing, it melts if gasoline sits on it, it's also not very durable. Engine still looks beautiful but under the carb, the paint has lifted off. And the only way I can think of to fix this, is to strip the enamel fully or have everything blasted again which means another teardown of a 70 year old motor no thanks.

My buddy has been restoring an old mopar and I mean perfectly, lotta new sheetmatal. He had a guy advising working on the finish and paint who is actually a expert paint rep for automotive paints. When I said "next time the top coat will be epoxy too" he said that was a mistake because epoxy will discolor from UV and some other reason I forgot. He said to use "catalyzed urethane".

So, I'm going to find out the plusses and minuses of that stuff. On the one hand this is not going to be a show tractor, but, on the other hand, who wants to do all this work cleaning stripping and maybe sandblasting, updating lots of parts like the clutch, wet brake pad, hood bumpers and 100 other items, prolly overhaul the engine, only to have a soft paint that scuffs off too easy etc?

Until reading all the paint threads on here, had no idea that it aint really simple about the paint!
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Model 100 Dec 2020 - Running condition, has snow plow!
Model 123 Nov 2020 Hydro needs much work, or resto, building front end loader for this one
Model 100 Feb 2019 apart for total frame-off / sandblast etc resto

Model 70 Sep 2020 needs total resto and an engine, or for parts
Model 70/100 Mar 2021 buried in rust, frozen engine, got free for parts.

two spare hydro rears
"in for a penny, in for a pound!"
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  #13  
Old 03-13-2019, 06:10 AM
twoton twoton is offline
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Check out "olds" thread in the Reastoration Tips section called "Case/IH paint hardener".
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  #14  
Old 03-13-2019, 08:02 AM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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I have restored 5 Cubs since I started in this hobby in 2013.
All the small parts including the engines have been painted when ready to install with spray cans.
They all still look like the day I finished the restorations. This after being hauled all over IA, MN, IL, WI and MO.
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  #15  
Old 03-13-2019, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finsruskw View Post
I have restored 5 Cubs since I started in this hobby in 2013.
All the small parts including the engines have been painted when ready to install with spray cans.
They all still look like the day I finished the restorations. This after being hauled all over IA, MN, IL, WI and MO.
Ditto with me. Painting with a gun is the easy part. Setup, mixing, and especially cleanup is a royal pita. Not to mention that once mixed with hardener, long term paint storage is out the window.

I do all my small parts with rattle cans as each part becomes ready, then it gets stored away until assembly time. The big stuff, I try to get all prepped and shoot all at one time so there is only one mix and one cleanup.

Granted, the rattle paint loses in the hardness category, but if you use your tractor, some parts such as your deck hangers and draw hitch are going to get scratched up from use no matter what paint you use. If your tractor is a trailer queen, then what does hardness matter?
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  #16  
Old 03-13-2019, 11:50 AM
CubbyRI CubbyRI is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironman View Post
Ditto with me. Painting with a gun is the easy part. Setup, mixing, and especially cleanup is a royal pita. Not to mention that once mixed with hardener, long term paint storage is out the window.
Didnt think about cleaning up the gun. As to storage, I'd think it could be mixed in smaller batches from the main cans?

I wonder if the cleaning produces a lot of waste solvent and how to dispose of that... although I could get a 5gal waste container and bring it someplace at the end of all the paint sessions.
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Model 100 Dec 2020 - Running condition, has snow plow!
Model 123 Nov 2020 Hydro needs much work, or resto, building front end loader for this one
Model 100 Feb 2019 apart for total frame-off / sandblast etc resto

Model 70 Sep 2020 needs total resto and an engine, or for parts
Model 70/100 Mar 2021 buried in rust, frozen engine, got free for parts.

two spare hydro rears
"in for a penny, in for a pound!"
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  #17  
Old 03-13-2019, 04:01 PM
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ironman ironman is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CubbyRI View Post
Didnt think about cleaning up the gun. As to storage, I'd think it could be mixed in smaller batches from the main cans?

I wonder if the cleaning produces a lot of waste solvent and how to dispose of that... although I could get a 5gal waste container and bring it someplace at the end of all the paint sessions.
Smaller containers work to a degree, but it seems once you open the can and expose the paint to air the "shelf life clock" starts ticking. Paint with hardener added is doomed to be used ASAP.

The main solvent waste is involved in cleaning your gun. To do it properly, you would run straight solvent through the gun for a few sprays, then the gun should be completely disassembled and the parts soaked in solvent while you work solvent through the gun body's passages and then blow clean with compressed air. Just guessing, you'd use about 10-12 ounces. Disposal?
I splatter it on the weeds and poison ivy, kills 'em umm-umm gooood.

Hint: When you buy the solvent for your paint, probably a gallon, also buy a gallon of the cheapest crap they got. Use that for clean-up, and you will find other uses for it too.
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  #18  
Old 03-13-2019, 06:54 PM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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mineral spirits works good for that.
Good for cleaning parts too!!
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  #19  
Old 03-13-2019, 07:48 PM
twoton twoton is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finsruskw View Post
You can buy a case of transport yellow rustoleum for about the price of one quart of the IH stuff.
That's what I use for all the small stuff when reassembling a Cub
No doubt you do nice work there fins...

Just curious.. if you use the rustoleum rattle cans on the small stuff what are you using on the big pieces?
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  #20  
Old 03-13-2019, 09:21 PM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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The big stuff gets primed and painted w/a gun soon as it gets back from the blaster.
Small parts get sanded, vinegar soaked, blasted in my cabinet whatever it takes at the time.
Spring is just around the corner and my air line finally thawed out so I can get the cabinet dug out of the corner and use it some.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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