Inner tubes and wheel questions

[ironman]

All the tubes I've ever seen look like that. The tube will find their own comfy position once in the tire. Once it's in, inflate it, then let the air out and inflate it again.

Don't know what you mean by bead sealer, but tubes or not all depends on where your leaks are. From the looks of your tires and rims, you better go with tubes.

[ol'George]

When you get the tube you will see it is not in the center of the tube, but to one side a bit, so you install it with the stem to the side of the rim hole.
Now if your stem hole is 5/8" diameter use the TR-15
Most times you get what they have in stock, usually TR-13.

[spndncash]

please don't be offended but I just want to verify that what you refer to as "bead sealer" is really bead sealer.
bead sealer is more or less a glue with a lot of solids.
1. it is designed to seal a tire at the bead - it not needed with a tube in the tire as the bead is no longer part of the air holding bladder. It may cause premature tube failure as the tube cannot freely expand once it gets bonded in place by the bead sealer.
2. Bead sealer can be used to seal cast aluminum rims, which as they corrode are no longer air tight. basically they reseal the entire rim if pin holes form.
3. if you meant, or intend to use, tire slime - the only way tire slime can be used long term is if it is in a tube and I still would advise against it. it will rust your rim to the point of being unusable and unrepairable.
4. If you think the tire was difficult to break off the bead now try it after bead sealer has been on there a few months

[CubbyRI]

hi cash more good info.

to be clear, I was thinking to skip the tubes (because they are expensive and complicate tire installation and can get pinched and ruined) and use bead sealer and go tubeless.

but, I just ordered 2 rear tubes for $30. now onto front tires and tubes.

on this tractor I plan to do a HD spindle mod and 4-lug hubs/wheels so I have to plan all that as far as wheel and tire sizes (prob the same)

the reason for that is I plan to build a small FEL for this 123 and probably add a power steering box as well. my buddy has a wrecking yard and I can probably look until I find a small PS box and I can fab the bracketry easily for that in my home machine shop.

[ironman]

With a FEL you will be in need of weight in the rear, so loading the rear tires with fluid is a step in that direction. Tubes in the tires is better for the addition of fluid.

[spndncash]

Originally Posted by ironman

With a FEL you will be in need of weight in the rear, so loading the rear tires with fluid is a step in that direction. Tubes in the tires is better for the addition of fluid.

I agree, any fluid balast should be in a tube. the fluid should be something that wont freeze - antifreeze, calcium chloride if its still used-(it is still in my farmall cub.)
I have a 106 with the danco loader. for me - a rototiller on the back is sufficient weight with nothing in the tires but air but I have the original front axle/ manual steering on mine. I personally never go with tubes unless there is liquid in them. I find tubeless much easier to repair and maintain. when I do tire changes I always refurb the wheels - if you have a truck tire dealer near you you probably can get them blasted and powder coated for cheap.

[Cubcadet_107]

Originally Posted by spndncash

calcium chloride if its still used-(it is still in my farmall cub.)

If you use calcium chloride, you especially need a tube. That stuff just eats away at the rims if you don't. My dad's old JD 40 still has it in one of its front tires. Used to be in both. One already blew out and was replaced, and the one left is just barely holding on. We've had a replacement rim for ages now because we know it'll happen eventually.

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by Cubcadet_107

If you use calcium chloride, you especially need a tube. That stuff just eats away at the rims if you don't. My dad's old JD 40 still has it in one of its front tires. Used to be in both. One already blew out and was replaced, and the one left is just barely holding on. We've had a replacement rim for ages now because we know it'll happen eventually.

Well there are 2 schools of thought on chloride.
It is very corrosive but one can get about #11 per gallon of fluid.
unlike WWF @#7.6 per gallon
In my loader tractor tires I use about 55 gal of chloride/water mixture, as is in all my farm tractors, and they all have tubes.
Now on my 806 pictured in my avatar, the fronts had chloride in them without tubes and it worked well for many years
till one started leaking through the sidewall so I pumped it out figuring to find a mess, but was pleased to find the steel wheel inside was in prefect shape.
I will admit some of the paint was gone but no rust/corrosion of any kind
so I cleaned up the wheel, painted it and installed a tube in the tire and refilled it with chloride.
Figgered I might as well do the other one as I had purchased a pair of tubes,
It was in just as good of shape.
I was always told chloride by itself has to have oxygen to cause corrosion.
I have replaced at least 8 or more 36" rims over the years due to chloride leaking either at the tube stem or a puncture situation allowing it to corrode the rim to a point it was not safe to repair/use.
So all that said, I like tubes in loaded tires, and but both of my 782's are loaded with WWF without tubes.
If I live long enough, the mild cracking on those tires will require either tubes or tire replacement with tubes.
I should mention I hate SLIME,as it just makes a big mess to deal with.

[ironman]

Originally Posted by ol'George

If I live long enough, the mild cracking on those tires will require either tubes or tire replacement with tubes.

If you live long enough, the EPA will probably find a reason to ban calcium chloride.

[Red Dave]

Originally Posted by ironman

If you live long enough, the EPA will probably find a reason to ban calcium chloride.

Quite probably true, but then what would the state spray on our roads to de-ice and eat fenders?