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  #1  
Old 07-12-2018, 11:29 AM
hyperlightboards48 hyperlightboards48 is offline
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Location: Elk River, Minnesota
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This year I expanded my garden from about 8x16 to 16x30 mainly because I bought a tiller for my 1450 and I wanted somewhere to use it. When I expanded I didn’t remove sod, I didn’t kill the sod I simply tilled it under(I’m aware this is a mistake now). This took a long time and a lot of passes but I eventually tilled down about 6-8 inches everywhere. Then I planted my plants, some by seed some from pots. I kept up really well for about 4 weeks with weeding. But eventually grass/weeds took over. The old section of the garden that existed prior to this year is fine, but the new area was just not possible for me to keep up. I have let this new area go now for about 2 weeks and it is thick 2 foot tall grass. At this point I have decided this year is a wash and I need to prepare better for next year. So I sprayed the area with a herbicide, waited a day or two and I mowed everything down then applied herbicide again since more is exposed.

I am aware I have made some mistakes, please point them out so I can learn…

Options/questions
  • Now that I have used killer in the garden I am good to go next year?
  • I just wimped out and I need to weed for 10 hours a week for the first few years until I successfully make the soil free of seed. Is it just the first few years that are hard?
  • Cover the area with black plastic for a couple months to kill the dormant weeds
  • Bring in black dirt to go on top of existing soil to provide a new seedless base
  • Cover garden with mulch every year- does this kill dormant seeds or does it just suppress them?
  • Something else?

PS- the garden smelled very nice while mowing down, aroma from onion, cucumber and basil was lovely.
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Old 07-12-2018, 11:33 AM
hyperlightboards48 hyperlightboards48 is offline
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Some pics of before and after just for entertainment.
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  #3  
Old 07-12-2018, 01:57 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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You need to plow it with a moldboard. I promise, that rear tiller didn't till 6-8" deep. Tilling leaves the ground fluffy and full of air. A tiller only goes about 3" deep. You won't even get a 12" plow in 8". You'll hit the diff on the ttact or before you go that deep. 6" is a good target depth, but 5" is more likely. I suggest an 8" or 10" plow. 12" plows are pretty big, and in my opinion should be left to the SGT's.

I don't like using herbicide in a garden spot.....EVER. A plow will run the weeds under. Reason the tiller didn't work is it didn't get the roots.

If you are going to have a garden that big, get a walk behind tiller, and/or build or buy a cultivator for the tractor. It does take a couple years for a new garden spot to make a good crop.
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Old 07-12-2018, 02:28 PM
hyperlightboards48 hyperlightboards48 is offline
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I have a 10 inch plow I have yet to use, I'll get that set up and give it a go. The tines extended down about 6 inches from the bottom/side of the tiller and I know I had the side buried. I didn't think about the soil expansion from air, when considering my measurement. Guess its better said I was left with 6-8 inches of fluff not tilled down 6-8 inches. thanks for the clarification.

Does this sound like a decent plan:

Plow now, Plow again in fall if enough root system in place. Then Plow in spring followed by tilling prior to planting?

Or is it just a one and done thing, plow once in the spring and then till and plant?
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  #5  
Old 07-12-2018, 02:38 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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You can't plow very close together in time. Soil needs to be packed for a plow to work. Besides, it defeats the purpose of burying sod, only to later roll it back to the top. Plowing in the fall works well, as all the fodder and sod gets buried and will rot by spring. You will have a nice clean garden for planting.... until the weeds naturally start to grow. Sorry man, weeds are God's curse to us. It's in the Bible.

Keep it mowed down the rest of the summer and plow it this fall, later the better. Like after the leaves fall and grass dies off. October/November. Being you are up north, maybe late September/October. If you have a wet fall, you can plow in the spring. Couple years ago we had a wet fall, but mild winter. I plowed in February, and tilled and planted in April. Plowing works well when the soil is damp and even heavy. If you catch it right, you will have to let it dry a couple days before you till. Not mud, mind you. Just "heavy".
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Old 07-12-2018, 03:20 PM
hyperlightboards48 hyperlightboards48 is offline
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Got it, thanks. It all makes a lot of sense, and at the end of the day seems elementary. But its never occurred to me, Its all new . Appreciate the time and the feedback!
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  #7  
Old 07-13-2018, 12:42 AM
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zippy1 zippy1 is offline
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I don't give a chit what one does, there will be weed seed, and it will rear its ugly head.
Every time you turn the soil, you are bringing up millions of years worth of unwanted seed. To keep them from growing, becoming established, you'll have to continually disrupt the growth. IE, tilling, quack digging, hoeing...
OR the other way. Roundup. I've used it for years, sure, I can't feel my feet, but it does a number on the weeds.
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Old 07-13-2018, 07:24 AM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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We use Preen between rows and put grass clippings and shredded paper down when we have it.
Works great. My spuds come out of the ground w/baking instructions reprinted on the skins! !
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Old 07-13-2018, 08:09 AM
hyperlightboards48 hyperlightboards48 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zippy1 View Post
Every time you turn the soil, you are bringing up millions of years worth of unwanted seed.
Eventually after enough turning of the soil and repeated weed removal, whether be by chemicals or tools. Does one get the majority of seeds removed.... Does it get easier after the first few years?

Quote:
Originally Posted by finsruskw View Post
We use Preen between rows and put grass clippings and shredded paper down when we have it.
Works great. My spuds come out of the ground w/baking instructions reprinted on the skins! !
Most of the time I leave my clippings in the yard with the hopes of keeping the fertilizer and what not in the yard. Never thought about news paper, with all that is happening in the news I'm afraid my plants might be depressed or grow up angry. Have you noticed this side effect??? I'll have to be selective of the paper I put in the garden. What a great newspaper you subscribe to that has baking instructions!

That's a nice option over, mulch, fabric, plastic and other items as I can plow and till without having to remove them.

On a relevant note, assuming my comment/question to Todd holds true about working the seeds out over time-- Covering soil with an item; mulch, paper, clippings, cardboard, newspaper ect. does this kill the seeds? or simply keep them dormant till they are uncovered? Assuming this comment is also true.. am I better off leaving it uncovered for the first few years and attacking the existing seeds. Then cover once the garden is more established start covering to prevent new seeds from entering?

Thanks all for feedback and listening to me ramble!
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Old 07-13-2018, 09:55 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Weeds grow. That's all there is too it. No, no matter how many times you plow, plant, spray and kill.... they are going to be there. The grass will become less intense, but it will still grow.

Certain weeds like certain soil conditions. You really want to get into this? Buy a weed book, look up all the things growing in the garden spot you don't want. Find out what type of soil they like. Look up all the things you want to grow in the garden. Find out what type of soil they like. Take soil samples and send them in. When you get the results, (you will also have to learn how to read the soil sample) read them and put on whatever minerals you need to chance the soil type. For example, if the soil is acidic, which I can almost guarantee it is, you will need ag lime. If potassium is low, you will need potash. So on and so forth. Farming isn't as easy as it looks.

I like to garden.... it's fun. Gives me an excuse to use my cubs, and gets me some good food in the fridge and in my belly. Saves me a bit at the store. (Probably by the time I take all the equipment, seed and fuel into account I might break even, lol.) But I'm not going to the time and energy it takes to maintain the soil like a field. I have a compost pile. I spread it on the garden when it gets broken down. I use 28% nitrogen on the corn. I rotate the crop. I plow every year. It still grows weeds if left unkept.

Leaving the clippings on the yard doesn't affect the fertilizer you put on the soil. Grass clippings are basically fodder. They rot and put nutrients into the ground. I sweep mine up when I wait too long to mow and use them for compost. I don't sweep every time.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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