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  #1  
Old 11-14-2018, 08:57 PM
boxccc boxccc is offline
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Default CC 1015 rear wheel problem

I have this very old and moderately rusty 1050 that i need to get the rear wheel off to replace the tire. 18x8.50-8
It has a singular bolt that holds the rim to the internally threaded shaft. It won't move even after penetrating oil and torch heating. I can't tell what part needs to slide off the shaft or what. I have beat from the inside out with good mallet but no give. Does the whole wheel slide off the shaft or has it been modified? The other side looks the same but not as rusted.
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Old 11-14-2018, 09:16 PM
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john hall john hall is offline
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Well, mods will probably move this as that's a CCC machine, late 80's early 90's if I remember correctly. Be careful beating on that rim. I think that is the style rear end that I have heard horror stories regarding removing the rear wheels. I think the axle on some of that style machine (not just Cadets) is held on with a snap ring--too much hammering can knock the ring out of place and bring the axle out of the rear with the rim still on it. Maybe looking up a parts diagram for the rear end will tell you how aggressive you can get.

I suppose one could rig up a puller--drill a couple holes in the rim and run bolts thru, that would keep the pressure on what is stuck and not on the internals of the transmission.
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Old 11-15-2018, 08:15 AM
ejl6658 ejl6658 is offline
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Default CC 1015 rear wheel problem

I had the same issue removing the rear rims on a 1320 to replace the dry rotted tires. The one side I was able to use a PB blaster soaking, heat, and a gear puller using the wheel weight mounting holes. The other side was so seized the other side methods did not work. I end up torching the rim off a couple inches from the axle and then used a air cutting wheel to split the the portion around the axles in three places and it still fought me the whole way but I eventually got it off and had a spare rim. If you need to torch the rim off do it in steps and have a water soaked rag around the inner portion of the axle to keep the heat from ruining your axle seal.
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Old 11-15-2018, 08:25 AM
ejl6658 ejl6658 is offline
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Default CC 1015 rear wheel problem

If you do end up getting the rims off make sure shine up with emery cloth the axle and the holes in the rims and apply some anti seize.
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Old 11-16-2018, 08:51 AM
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ironman ironman is offline
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I have fought many a battle with these rims and axles, and what I can say is that all that has been said above is good advice. Penetrating oil takes forever and may not penetrate far enough, beating will break something, heat will ruin your seals, cutting destroys your wheel. What I did was fabricate myself this puller and used in conjunction with oil and a little bit of heat the wheel comes off eezy peezy.

I can't make out any holes in your picture of you rims but drill some or maybe weld some studs in there. Make sure that if you use any kind of puller, leave the axle bolt loosely in the hole so that you don't muck up the threads.

And the advice about cleaning and anti-seize, ABSOLUTELY!
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Old 11-17-2018, 06:49 PM
ejl6658 ejl6658 is offline
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Let me tell you Ironman the last one I did my methods were very similar to yours. The one side was eezy peezy but the other side with two hours of the eezy peezy method, using up my monthly allotment of Fbombs, and starting to use the Lords name in vain brought out the cutting torch as I had a spare rim I probably would never have a use for. Being careful with the heat you can get by without ruining the axle seal as well. I guess it all depends on the level of corrosion.
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