Introductions and some guidance. Cub Cadet 70

[1965slocub]

Hello and thanks for letting me join this site. My name is Jim and I am helping an 88year old friend get his 1965 cub cadet 70 running. I have no prior experience with cubs, but grew up on a farm in California's Central Valley and have repaired small engines and medium tractors, mostly red.
This model has 2 basic problems. Engine smokes heavily and the steering gearbox is devoid of bearings.
The engine is a Kohler 161 and will need a new piston, rings and gasket set. Need to find a source or dealer in NOS parts to repair. It is a STD. type A piston. My plan is to remove, clean and relap the existing valves, light hone, glazebreak the cylinder and install new piston and rings. The area above the top ring is very scored and eroded.
The steering shaft has a copper coated worm segment with 2 bearings adjusted by a threaded end plug. only a few balls and part of a plastic race was found on disassembly. I believe there are 2 races to back the bearings. Any help in locating these parts or more information would be appreciated. And many thanks for letting me join the group. Jim.

[olds45512]

Welcome to occ. If you go on eBay there's a guy that sells real nice rebuild kits, just search for Kohler k161 and you will get many results. The guys eBay name is bakt4kids or something like that, the parts are not genuine Kohler but are still good quality and many members has used his kits for rebuild with excellent results.

[Merk]

First

Having restored a IH Cub Cadet 70 I can tell you it may be hard to find a piston for the K161. The early K161s had a small bore and a big bore piston. Your engine in the 70 (if it is the original one) should have the small bore piston. The big bore piston is the same as a K181 piston.

One thing I would do is measure the cylinder bore to see what condition it is in. Rarely I see an engine just get by with a light hone, glaze break the cylinder and install new piston and rings. Odds are it still will be an oil burner-smoker after it is done that way.

Page 5 of this topic:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ght=Uncle+Dick
has a write up on rebuilding a steering box for a 70. None of the steering boxes I've rebuild had a copper coated worm segment as you describe. Can you post some pictures of this?

If you have any other questions ask. There are several that can help.

[1965slocub]

Originally Posted by olds45512

Welcome to occ. If you go on eBay there's a guy that sells real nice rebuild kits, just search for Kohler k161 and you will get many results. The guys eBay name is bakt4kids or something like that, the parts are not genuine Kohler but are still good quality and many members has used his kits for rebuild with excellent results.

Tim, Thanks for the tip on parts. I will check on ebay to see what's available. Jim.

[1965slocub]

Merk, So if the bore is not too far out of round, will a honing and new piston and rings work? I only feel a slight ridge on about 1/4 of the bore, the rest is smooth and glassy. I am trying not to get too sideways on repairs to save my friend some money.
On the steering shaft, I can get a photo and try to upload on the site. But I am sure its got a copper coating, possibly for corrosion resistance? Where can I find a bearing kit for this steering box? Thanks again for the advice, Jim.

[Merk]

Kohler manual states max out of round and taper is .003 each. Anything over that should be bored to the next size. Honing will not square the cylinder wall and it will make the cylinder oversize. I know some that have and 99.9 % of them will burn oil and smoke within a year or 2 after the rebuild. Odds are the 70 will not be work hard after the rebuild which makes it harder for the rings to set up.

I prefer to build an engine right the first time no matter the cost. Boring the cylinder will cost an extra $40 to $60 to do. Well worth the additional cost in my book.

[1965slocub]

Merk, Thanks for the explanation. I will take the block to machine shop and have them look at the bore and give me a price.
So far, I can only find the bigbore pistons for the 161, so if the boring price is reasonable, will send the new piston to shop to have cylinder bored to fit.
Thanks again for your help. Jim.

[Merk]

Originally Posted by 1965slocub

Merk, Thanks for the explanation. I will take the block to machine shop and have them look at the bore and give me a price.
So far, I can only find the bigbore pistons for the 161, so if the boring price is reasonable, will send the new piston to shop to have cylinder bored to fit.
Thanks again for your help. Jim.

Glad I'm able to help.
My 70 had a small bore piston......key word is had.
It now has the big bore piston. The block should be able to be bored out accept the bigger piston. Sometime in my 70 history the engine thru a rod. Block was welded around the area where the starter generator mounts to the side of the block.

That was almost 6 years ago.

[1965slocub]

Took the block to local machine shop. $285.00 to bore to accept big bore piston. Owner said no. So, now I need to figure out original bore size to come up with rings that will work with the bore and piston I now have. Doe anyone have the original bore size for the K 161 with small bore piston? Thanks, Jim.

[olds45512]

Wow, I think that machine shop is trying to screw you, I could have a v8 bored for that much.