Only Cub Cadets

PLEASE PATRONIZE OUR SPONSORS!

CC Speciaalties R. F. Houtz and Sons

Patton Acres IH Cub Cadet Parts

Cub Cadet Parts & Service


If you would like to help maintain this site & enhance it, feel free to donate whatever amount you would like to!




Attention Folks we have a new owner!
Greg Rozar AKA- CubDieselFan


Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > IH Cub Cadet Tractors (GT)

Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 07-21-2018, 12:59 AM
cmathews1994 cmathews1994 is offline
New Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Michigan
Posts: 12
Default Narrow Frame hydro lift help

I installed a external hydro lift on my 100 and everything went good have it hooked to the 3pt and using the cultivator. Got thinking about the snow blade the other day and was wondering how the front attachments hooked into it. I have the thing that would usually u bolt to the lift rod and i seen in the directions that it has to be cut down but do you drill a totally new hole and use a spacer or do you go in the same hole that bolts through the cylinder. And 1 more thing, what is the deal with float on an external unit like this? I will grab some pics and post them in the morning

thanks
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 07-21-2018, 08:52 AM
Stephen.Mellish's Avatar
Stephen.Mellish Stephen.Mellish is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: PE, Canada
Posts: 64
Default

First thing you need to do is read the installation manual in the technical library. It should answer most of your questions.

Hydraulic Add-on Unit for NF Tractors
__________________
The Collection, so far: Cub Cadet 100(x2), 125(x2), 123(x2), 70, 71. Adding more when I can find them.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 07-21-2018, 11:41 AM
cmathews1994 cmathews1994 is offline
New Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Michigan
Posts: 12
Default

It’s already installed and I read it like stated in the post but thank you
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 07-23-2018, 12:11 AM
Cub Cadet 123's Avatar
Cub Cadet 123 Cub Cadet 123 is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 4,469
Default

For front implements, such as a snow/dirt blade, you will need to cut the lift paddle (that is what you have the you stated U bolts) in order to modify it. I do not know what you mean when you said the hole in the cylinder??? You should NOT have to drill any new holes in the paddle to use the implement lift. The only holes that you would need to drill are in the frame to mount the hydraulic lift itself and it sounds like you have already done that. You should be able to just bolt the lift paddle to your rock shaft bracket. I had to use longer spacers for my hydraulic lift, so I had to also make a modified lift rod that extends out, but you should not have to worry about that. Mine is because someone sold me an electric lift rockshaft, but told me it was for a hydraulic lift.

The float at the clevis allows the implement to "float" like the float button on the Armstrong lift handle. You should NOT use this with a snow/dirt blade on the front as you will want the down force in order to move the material and not float over the top of it.

If it helps, look under my profile, look in "My Album", then "My Cubs". Go to page 3 and bring up my 123 Snow Ready (1st picture). Enlarge the picture and maybe that will help you examine the set up.

or

Looky Looky at the 1st pict of this "hydraulic" lift (the seller calls it a hydro lift, but that no is correct):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/14287932031...MakeTrack=true

Cub Cadet 123
__________________
Still don't know what I'm doing in OHIO?.....If you find me, then please point me back toward INDIANA.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 07-23-2018, 08:04 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Oblong, Illinois
Posts: 17,594
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cmathews1994 View Post
It’s already installed and I read it like stated in the post but thank you
I think you would find the instructions give you the info you seek. However, we are having an issue with the tech library information at this time, so you cannot download it. Perhaps someone can email it to you has already downloaded it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Cub Cadet 123 View Post
The float at the clevis allows the implement to "float" like the float button on the Armstrong lift handle. You should NOT use this with a snow/dirt blade on the front as you will want the down force in order to move the material and not float over the top of it.
That is absolutely incorrect. You cannot and should not use down force on a front blade. You will bend the piss out of the rod that lifts it. The front blade lift mechanism is not designed for down force. You should always run a front blade in the float position. If it "floats" over material, then you will have to find another way to break it up. Besides, a blade works just like a plow. If it is sharp and adjusted right it should try to dig in. There are times it won't, but we have to keep in mind it's a very small blade. It will sometimes "float" over what we are trying to scrape off. In that case, you need a bigger tractor with a bigger blade.

Don't run the front blade with it locked down, or while using downforce.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 07-23-2018, 09:39 AM
john hall's Avatar
john hall john hall is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Durham, NC
Posts: 3,095
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
You cannot and should not use down force on a front blade. You will bend the piss out of the rod that lifts it. The front blade lift mechanism is not designed for down force. You should always run a front blade in the float position. If it "floats" over material, then you will have to find another way to break it up. Besides, a blade works just like a plow. If it is sharp and adjusted right it should try to dig in. There are times it won't, but we have to keep in mind it's a very small blade. It will sometimes "float" over what we are trying to scrape off. In that case, you need a bigger tractor with a bigger blade.

Don't run the front blade with it locked down, or while using downforce.
Timely info!! I just got the blade installed on mine Sat and never knew there was a lockout for the float (never used the Cadet over 30 min). Anyway, it would pick the front end up off the shop floor. Put it back to float and went and played with the blade for about 45 min., worked OK I suppose.
__________________
2072 w/60" Haban
982 with 3 pt and 60" Haban
1811 with ags and 50C
124 w/hydraulic lift
782 w/mounted sprayer
2284 w/54" mowing deck
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 07-23-2018, 11:10 AM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Iowa
Posts: 2,983
Default

Put some weight on the blade to achieve "down force"
It will not then ride up over something so easily, but, it will more easily dig in and trip the blade spring option if it is not on the locked position.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 07-23-2018, 05:28 PM
drglinski's Avatar
drglinski drglinski is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Michigan
Posts: 3,939
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
I think you would find the instructions give you the info you seek. However, we are having an issue with the tech library information at this time, so you cannot download it. Perhaps someone can email it to you has already downloaded it.




That is absolutely incorrect. You cannot and should not use down force on a front blade. You will bend the piss out of the rod that lifts it. The front blade lift mechanism is not designed for down force. You should always run a front blade in the float position. If it "floats" over material, then you will have to find another way to break it up. Besides, a blade works just like a plow. If it is sharp and adjusted right it should try to dig in. There are times it won't, but we have to keep in mind it's a very small blade. It will sometimes "float" over what we are trying to scrape off. In that case, you need a bigger tractor with a bigger blade.

Don't run the front blade with it locked down, or while using downforce.

I float every implement I have. Mower, tiller, blade..........locking it breaks things.
__________________
Daniel G.




.

(May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 07-25-2018, 11:17 PM
Cub Cadet 123's Avatar
Cub Cadet 123 Cub Cadet 123 is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 4,469
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
I think you would find the instructions give you the info you seek. However, we are having an issue with the tech library information at this time, so you cannot download it. Perhaps someone can email it to you has already downloaded it.




That is absolutely incorrect. You cannot and should not use down force on a front blade. You will bend the piss out of the rod that lifts it. The front blade lift mechanism is not designed for down force. You should always run a front blade in the float position. If it "floats" over material, then you will have to find another way to break it up. Besides, a blade works just like a plow. If it is sharp and adjusted right it should try to dig in. There are times it won't, but we have to keep in mind it's a very small blade. It will sometimes "float" over what we are trying to scrape off. In that case, you need a bigger tractor with a bigger blade.

Don't run the front blade with it locked down, or while using downforce.
I understand what you are saying and I have purchased blades and snow throwers with the lift bars bent. However, when I replaced a retention wall at my mom's years ago, I had to backfill the dirt behind the wall. I used my 73 with a front blade and in the float position, the blade went up over the dirt piles and my cub was driving up them. Yes, a rear blade would have been ideal for my work or a FEL, but I do not own a rear blade and did not own my FEL at the time. So, using downforce on my blade, my 73 got the job done without damage to anything, moving the dirt piles back into place and eventually, leveling the ground out to a gently slope. The dirt was loose enough for the blade to do the job. So, based on my experience, if a person knows what they are moving and uses common sense, there is no harm in using downforce to get the job done when it is needed and won't damage your tractor/implements.


Cub Cadet 123
__________________
Still don't know what I'm doing in OHIO?.....If you find me, then please point me back toward INDIANA.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:55 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.

Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

This website and forum are not affiliated with or sponsored by MTD Products Inc, which owns the CUB CADET trademarks. It is not an official MTD Products Inc, website, and MTD Products Inc, is not responsible for any of its content. The official MTD Products Inc, website can be found at: http://www.mtdproducts.com. The information and opinions expressed on this website are the responsibility of the website's owner and/or it's members, and do not represent the opinions of MTD Products Inc. IH, INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER are registered trademark of CNH America LLC

All material, images, and graphics from this site are the property of www.onlycubcadets.net. Any unauthorized use, reproductions, or duplications are prohibited unless solely expressed in writing.

Cub Cadet, Cub, Cadet, IH, MTD, Parts, Tractors, Tractor, International Harvester, Lawn, Garden, Lawn Mower, Kohler, garden tractor equipment, lawn garden tractors, antique garden tractors, garden tractor, PTO, parts, online, Original, 70, 71, 72, 73, 76, SO76, 80, 81, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 182, 282, 382, 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 805, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1015, 1100, 1105, 1110, 1200, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1605, 1606, 1610, 1615, 1620, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1912, 1914.