Ross steering box

[Vrobert]

As a quick fix you could drop the bottom bearing out and clean it up. Also dress up the cam follower pin with a grinder.

Obviously, a complete steering rebuild is the right thing to do, and neither expensive nor difficult once you collect the proper tools.

[fgaretired]

I found that most killers will mess the threads up. I took to nuts the same size of the shaft put them on and tack welded them together. Then removed them and welded them solid. Then welded a thick plate on top of it. Drilled a demple in that for the puller to follow. Worked great and kept from messing the shaft up. I have found creep by seafoam works great you can see it foaming in and working.

[RldCCC1710]

Quick question for everyone. I own a Cub Cadet 1710 (made in May 1985) with a Ross steering box. Naturally it has a zerk grease fitting. Now with this particular box, how do I know when I've added enough grease through that fitting? Can't exactly tell when to know from the owner's manual that was made for my machine.
I found an earlier version of an 782 series owner's manual from IH (circa 1980)that said to add enough grease through that fitting until it begins to seep out. But "seep out" from where? Where should I be looking?
Thanks

[Billy-O]

Originally Posted by RldCCC1710

Quick question for everyone. I own a Cub Cadet 1710 (made in May 1985) with a Ross steering box. Naturally it has a zerk grease fitting. Now with this particular box, how do I know when I've added enough grease through that fitting? Can't exactly tell when to know from the owner's manual that was made for my machine.
I found an earlier version of an 782 series owner's manual from IH (circa 1980)that said to add enough grease through that fitting until it begins to seep out. But "seep out" from where? Where should I be looking?
Thanks

Look for grease to seep out where the cam plate meets the gear housing.

[sorner]

I have the harbor freight steering wheel puller, and a three jaw puller to pull on it but only use two jaws, then I thread the nut to flush with the edge of the threads, maybe just a hair above to avoid damage. Then I have a bolt that fits down inside the hole that has an indent on the top that the puller fits right into so it won't go wonky, and a thick washer under it between the head and the wheel nut. Spray it with some penetrant. Put some tension on it with the puller and let it sit. Sometimes it'll pop off itself, sometimes a little gentle tapping on the top of the puller will get it to pop off. Sometimes when it lets go it sounds like a gunshot. I haven't broken a steering box or damaged threads yet doing this.

[RldCCC1710]

Originally Posted by Billy-O

Look for grease to seep out where the cam plate meets the gear housing.

Thanks Billy-O.
If I'm thinking correctly, the cam plate is what the cam follower is attached to as well as the drag link at the bottom of that plate...Yes? Is the grease actually "seeping-out" of the gearbox between the seal & retainer...I surmise?

Then I see as to why the owner's manual says to make sure to add the grease nice and slow so as to not damage the seal. I was told in the past that the excess grease would just make its way up the steering column and that there would be no clear way for me to tell that it was happening.

My Ross steering box has the serial # S10200 and the tractor serial# is 2050600U747300. Just to throw that info into the mix.