Only Cub Cadets

PLEASE PATRONIZE OUR SPONSORS!

CC Specialties R. F. Houtz and Sons Jeff in Pa.

Cub Cadet Parts & Service


If you would like to help maintain this site & enhance it, feel free to donate whatever amount you would like to!




Attention Folks we have a new owner!
Greg Rozar AKA- CubDieselFan


Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > IH Cub Cadet Tractors (GT)

Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 06-10-2023, 08:43 AM
zer0vector zer0vector is offline
New Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2023
Location: Virginia
Posts: 9
Default Help removing bearing holder in flywheel cup

Cub Cadet 1000 with the 10 HP Kohler motor.

Picture to start:



I'm trying to remove the pressed in ring in the center of the hub adapter/flywheel cup there. I believe it's part #29 here:

https://www.partstree.com/models/100...ctor/clutch-5/

Part #21 is already removed (it came out in several well-worn pieces).

Is that ring removable from the outside, and if so, any tips? I've tried a couple different pullers and the depth difference between the back edge of the ring and the large nut is so small, nothing I have can get in between.

I don't believe I can get a socket on the flywheel nut either (to remove the entire hub adapter), unless there's some special low profile one that will fit. The picture is a little deceptive, there's not really any space between the edges of the nut and the ring if you look at it straight on, nowhere for a socket to go.

I think the nut is 102 over on the engine parts page:

https://www.partstree.com/models/100...horsepower-12/

It's holding on the flywheel cup, which is 105 on that same page. The bearing ring from the clutch parts page is pressed into that adapter.

Looks like the nut is a 5/8-18, but again, the largest socket I have that will fit through the ring is too small to fit around the nut.

I just don't see any other way to get the hub off without removing that ring. I wanted to ask before trying to make some ridiculous puller device. Any help is appreciated!
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 06-10-2023, 09:32 AM
ironman's Avatar
ironman ironman is online now
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,138
Default

Just a suggestion, I would try tapping some type of thin blade (such as a putty knife) under the outer lip (see arrow) and try to get it up enough to pry it out with something bigger.
Once out, you will have plenty of room for a socket to go on the nut.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Screenshot 2023-06-10 092730.jpg (41.7 KB, 80 views)
File Type: jpg Screenshot 2023-06-10 093649.jpg (13.6 KB, 80 views)
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 06-10-2023, 11:03 AM
darkminion_17's Avatar
darkminion_17 darkminion_17 is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 11,007
Default

Are you wanting to remove the flywheel? otherwise get a new ball bushing # 21
__________________
Up to 530 and counting...
I give up updating my profile!
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 06-10-2023, 12:57 PM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Iowa
Posts: 2,996
Default

Lew, I think his problem is the clutch driver has torn loose from the pressed in bushing and ruined the driver in the process and he is trying to salvage whatever he can, And the driver is stuck fast in the flywheel.
I suggest soaking the parts w/some good penetrant and cross your fingers.
Good luck!

Looks like he is going to need some expen$ive parts here.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 06-10-2023, 01:08 PM
zer0vector zer0vector is offline
New Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2023
Location: Virginia
Posts: 9
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by finsruskw View Post
Lew, I think his problem is the clutch driver has torn loose from the pressed in bushing and ruined the driver in the process and he is trying to salvage whatever he can, And the driver is stuck fast in the flywheel.
I suggest soaking the parts w/some good penetrant and cross your fingers.
Good luck!

Looks like he is going to need some expen$ive parts here.
Nothing has torn loose of anything, the driver was removed from the flywheel cup via the 4 bolt holes. On the 1000 they are separate parts, as shown on the clutch parts page linked above.

I do need to access the nut so just replacing the ball bushing (#21) isn't an option at the moment.

I will attempt to go in via the edge with a blade as suggested above and report back. I also have an idea for a puller that might take some bolts and some work with a dremel if that fails.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 06-10-2023, 02:49 PM
greg r greg r is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: OR
Posts: 55
Default

I'd go with a thinner wall socket. If you can't find one make one on a grinder.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 06-10-2023, 03:17 PM
CubDieselFan's Avatar
CubDieselFan CubDieselFan is online now
Administrator
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: TN
Posts: 2,013
Default

How much clearance is behind the bushing?

I use to work at a rebuild shop. We rebuilt lathes, mills, grinders, all machine tools. If they needed to remove a bushing in a blind hole: 1st they would make a shaft the same size as the bushing, very tight fit. Next pack it with grease and leave some room to start the shaft in the bushing. Then they would beat on the shaft with a mallet. If there is clearance in the back of the bushing and it is a blind hole, the grease will push the bushing out. I was amazed thr first time I saw it done.

Not sure if this will work on this application but it might.
__________________
1572, 1864 x2, 1810 x2, 1863 & GT1554(Dad's Ole Mowers), 1811,782D, 1872 x2, 782DT(Sold), 3235, 1860, 1772 with 3-point and Turbo.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 06-10-2023, 03:25 PM
zer0vector zer0vector is offline
New Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2023
Location: Virginia
Posts: 9
Default

Thanks for all the ideas, I used a combination of them and did just finally get it removed.

I ended up sacrificing one jaw of a puller which I ground down until I had a tiny long-armed pry-bar with a small foot on the end, small enough to slip behind the ring and rest on the nut. Then I used that inside the bore to very slightly pry up in one spot and went round and round.

Eventually there was enough of a gap that I could fit a sharpened screwdriver behind the lip (before it was almost flush) and much to my annoyance it's not a lip, it's an angled edge! Arg, not the best for prying against but went back to my internal pry bar round and round tapping it with a hammer and walking the ring out one fraction of a millimeter at a time.

Here's a picture of that annoying lip



Thanks for all the tips, on to the next task!
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 06-10-2023, 03:36 PM
zer0vector zer0vector is offline
New Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2023
Location: Virginia
Posts: 9
Default

Also to CubDieselFan I had thought about the grease/bread ideas but two problems:

1. There's a lot of space back there, it would take a fair bit of grease and I'm not even sure it's sealed, the grease might just find its way out another passage.

2. I don't have a shaft or anything that fits the bore. That *used* to hold a ball bushing race, and that bushing is the 5/8 drive shaft diameter. I'm not even sure what the inner diameter of the ring was.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 06-10-2023, 04:08 PM
darkminion_17's Avatar
darkminion_17 darkminion_17 is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 11,007
Default

I remember using a fine sawzall blade and cut 2 notches in it, then used a slide hammer with a hook on it to remove the rest.
__________________
Up to 530 and counting...
I give up updating my profile!
Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:26 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.

Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

This website and forum are not affiliated with or sponsored by MTD Products Inc, which owns the CUB CADET trademarks. It is not an official MTD Products Inc, website, and MTD Products Inc, is not responsible for any of its content. The official MTD Products Inc, website can be found at: http://www.mtdproducts.com. The information and opinions expressed on this website are the responsibility of the website's owner and/or it's members, and do not represent the opinions of MTD Products Inc. IH, INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER are registered trademark of CNH America LLC

All material, images, and graphics from this site are the property of www.onlycubcadets.net. Any unauthorized use, reproductions, or duplications are prohibited unless solely expressed in writing.

Cub Cadet, Cub, Cadet, IH, MTD, Parts, Tractors, Tractor, International Harvester, Lawn, Garden, Lawn Mower, Kohler, garden tractor equipment, lawn garden tractors, antique garden tractors, garden tractor, PTO, parts, online, Original, 70, 71, 72, 73, 76, SO76, 80, 81, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 182, 282, 382, 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 805, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1015, 1100, 1105, 1110, 1200, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1605, 1606, 1610, 1615, 1620, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1912, 1914.