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  #1  
Old 09-27-2020, 03:25 PM
tvag06 tvag06 is offline
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Default HI CC126 - S/G not pulling it's wieght

Hello folks,
I picked up a 126 last year and I have always had this issue. It is hard to start. It's as if the S/G doesn't have the power to pull over the engine. How can the compression stall out the starter? I literally at times need to help it along by giving the pulley on the engine shaft a nudge.

The battery is new. No problem there. So, I cleaned up the S/G. New bearing, new brushes, clean as a whistle. Tested it by putting a positive jumper cable to it. Spins great, seems strong. I reinstalled it and saw zero improvement. Still gets stuck when turning the engine over. Seems slow to me too. I've seen other S/Gs turn the engine over MUCH faster than mine.

I'd like to get some guidance on how to test the S/G circuit with my multimeter. I'm not good with electrical. Have a vague understanding. Since I'm sure this has been covered here before, do you have a post you can point to that gives me a detailed run down on how to test the voltage, grounds, resistances, etc etc to see if I can diagnose the problem if it be electrical?

Thanks in advance for the help fellas.
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  #2  
Old 09-27-2020, 03:30 PM
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Cubcadet_107 Cubcadet_107 is offline
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There's definitely an issue with the starter-generator. I had the same issue when I was attempting to get my 107 to run. I tried to clean it, but nothing I could do would make it better. I ended up combining the outer piece of the original s/g with the inner core and ends of another one I had that spun the opposite direction. Works fine now, and even has better bearings. Maybe you can clean all the wear surfaces, replace the brushes, it may actually work better. My s/g did sit out for 30 years so I'm sure that didn't help it. Perhaps you'll be more lucky than I was with it.
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  #3  
Old 09-27-2020, 06:14 PM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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An ACR issue perhaps?
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Old 09-27-2020, 07:49 PM
Red Dave Red Dave is online now
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Two thoughts:
1, make sure you have good connections on both the hot lead and the ground side, both at the S/G and the battery. Make all the connections clean, bright and tight..

If that doesn't gain you anything then:

2/ Starter/Generators can have internal problems. I had one that had similar problems to yours and I finally gave up and took it to a local starter shop and had it rebuilt.
Wasn't cheap, but after 10 or more years, it is still working like a new one.
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Old 09-27-2020, 08:34 PM
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Billy-O Billy-O is offline
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If you don't feel like pissing around too much and want a good deal.... You can order a new starter for around $105 with free shipping from DB Electrical.

Only do this after you verify what other said... Make sure the wiring from battery to starter is bright and tight.

I replaced my starter with a new one from DB Electrical this past spring. So far, happy as a clam. When my old starter went south, it was still charging but it started like a dead battery. I took a known good starter from my other tractor to verify my wiring and battery was good.
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  #6  
Old 09-28-2020, 07:44 AM
Mike McKown Mike McKown is offline
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I'd suggest you research how to adjust the ignition points to get the correct ignition timing. It may be kicking back on the starter motor.
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Old 09-28-2020, 11:56 AM
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darkminion_17 darkminion_17 is offline
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If you haven't already, jump the starter using the battery charger and see if it turns over betterer, you may have an issues with the old wiring in the tractor.
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Old 09-28-2020, 01:58 PM
tvag06 tvag06 is offline
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Thanks everyone for the feedback.

Last night I pulled the cam cover and inspected the spring. It was strong and in place.

Tonight, I'll try to jump it and see if I gain anything.

I adjusted the points a few months ago and that did give help some. I can recheck the timing tho and will do so soon.

I took the s/g apart a couple weeks ago, put in a new bearing and brushes. !! ACTUALLY, now that I think about it, there was a small piece of copper wire that was floating loose around in there. Looking at the armature I'm sure it must have broke free from it. Could that one missing connection impact the S/G that much? I included a pic with a red line indicating where the copper came free from (note: this is not my IHCC armature just an example).
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File Type: jpg armature.jpg (18.0 KB, 73 views)
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Old 09-29-2020, 12:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvag06 View Post
Thanks everyone for the feedback.

Last night I pulled the cam cover and inspected the spring. It was strong and in place.

Tonight, I'll try to jump it and see if I gain anything.

I adjusted the points a few months ago and that did give help some. I can recheck the timing tho and will do so soon.

I took the s/g apart a couple weeks ago, put in a new bearing and brushes. !! ACTUALLY, now that I think about it, there was a small piece of copper wire that was floating loose around in there. Looking at the armature I'm sure it must have broke free from it. Could that one missing connection impact the S/G that much? I included a pic with a red line indicating where the copper came free from (note: this is not my IHCC armature just an example).
It's like a spider with missing legs losing a tug-o-war contest.....
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  #10  
Old 09-29-2020, 04:29 AM
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TheSaturnV TheSaturnV is offline
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I covered this in my latest Cub 147 video. I ended up keeping the old case and just replacing the armature for about $70. I did do a comparison in the video showing before and after and how fast the S/G spins over.

https://youtu.be/xCD1055i_io
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