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  #1  
Old 11-29-2020, 02:06 PM
CubbyRI CubbyRI is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: RI
Posts: 384
Default Swapping 122 to hydro, easy?

How hard is the swap to put in a hydro rear on a 122?

I have a 123 thats beat, (engine has a small tree grown thru it) and the tower is rotted, but I think the diff should be ok.

Also, in any case, what's the smart way to check out a hydro that's been sitting? Change fluid and filter? Anything to look out for?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20201109_131127 (Medium).jpg (34.1 KB, 124 views)
File Type: jpg 20201109_131241 (Medium).jpg (36.9 KB, 122 views)
File Type: jpg 20201109_143452 (Medium).jpg (35.6 KB, 122 views)
__________________
Model 100 Dec 2020 - Running condition, has snow plow!
Model 123 Nov 2020 Hydro needs much work, or resto, building front end loader for this one
Model 100 Feb 2019 apart for total frame-off / sandblast etc resto

Model 70 Sep 2020 needs total resto and an engine, or for parts
Model 70/100 Mar 2021 buried in rust, frozen engine, got free for parts.

two spare hydro rears
"in for a penny, in for a pound!"
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  #2  
Old 11-29-2020, 02:52 PM
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Cubcadet_107 Cubcadet_107 is offline
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Location: New York
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The hydro itself would bolt in no problem. However, you would have to remove the clutch completely and get the proper drive hub, and use the 123 driveshaft. You would also most likely need the dash tower from the 123 because it has the mounts and holes and everything for the hydro control lever. In theory that should be all, but I'm no expert on the 122 or 123.
__________________

'70 107 with k301 engine swap
'71 106 with 38" deck
'70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck
'61 Original with 38" timed deck
'63 70 "pinkie"
1863 with 54" deck
'46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub

105 x2 (parts)
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  #3  
Old 11-29-2020, 05:50 PM
CubbyRI CubbyRI is offline
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Cool thanks. Sounds like it might be better just to fix the 123 that I have which has a bad Tower but who knows what else but maybe it's not all that bad everywhere else and I should Salvage that one rather than try to do another one...

I like the 123 because to me, it still has old school looks except the fenders which I think I can delete... and throw on some ag tires...
__________________
Model 100 Dec 2020 - Running condition, has snow plow!
Model 123 Nov 2020 Hydro needs much work, or resto, building front end loader for this one
Model 100 Feb 2019 apart for total frame-off / sandblast etc resto

Model 70 Sep 2020 needs total resto and an engine, or for parts
Model 70/100 Mar 2021 buried in rust, frozen engine, got free for parts.

two spare hydro rears
"in for a penny, in for a pound!"
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  #4  
Old 11-30-2020, 09:41 AM
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Cubcadet_107 Cubcadet_107 is offline
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Your 123 cosmetically is in pretty good shape, the hood looks amazing for it's age, so does most of the paint on the machine!

The dash tower, particularly in the badly rusted area you highlighted, must be a common issue on these machines. Both my 106 and 107 have a single crack on the right side in that spot, and the 106 clearly has been welded on both sides of the tower, in that same area. My 147, which sat outside for 15 years, has a fair bit of rust there too.

The fenders appear original, it's that seat that's ruining the old-school looks! Supposed to have one of these on it:



Ignore the gear shifter the same seat was used on the 122 and 123
__________________

'70 107 with k301 engine swap
'71 106 with 38" deck
'70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck
'61 Original with 38" timed deck
'63 70 "pinkie"
1863 with 54" deck
'46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub

105 x2 (parts)
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  #5  
Old 11-30-2020, 01:49 PM
CubbyRI CubbyRI is offline
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Location: RI
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Ok well unless an even cleaner one pops up, I start fixing this one up. The engine is free despite sitting long enough to have a tree growing thru the linkages.

I think I asked on another topic, (for after the engine is resolved) how to check out the hydro without damaging it. I guess I could try and drain the fluid and change the filter as a head start.

Not even sure what kind of things to look out for with a hydro setup, what wears out etc

If this turns out to be a good engine and hydro, I can fab some bend and weld them to the bottom of the tower and batt box etc, then paint. That kinda sucks since it will probably not match.

I sandblasted my 100 parts - frame, wheels, tower, and painted them with DTM single stage (no primer needed). Lets say Im still learning lol and it is an expenseive-ass school to go to.

Soooo... not into painting anything I dont have to on the 123.

It will get upgraded spindles and 4-lug hubs, new tires, a loader which I will build myself, and probably power steering box mod and a foot pedal hydro control.

As to the fenders, I really think the square fender design is too modern and would like to get some rounded generics and fab a mount for them, ag/rib tire set, and an old pan seat, to roll back the "age" of its looks.

but thats all talk right now, we'll see
__________________
Model 100 Dec 2020 - Running condition, has snow plow!
Model 123 Nov 2020 Hydro needs much work, or resto, building front end loader for this one
Model 100 Feb 2019 apart for total frame-off / sandblast etc resto

Model 70 Sep 2020 needs total resto and an engine, or for parts
Model 70/100 Mar 2021 buried in rust, frozen engine, got free for parts.

two spare hydro rears
"in for a penny, in for a pound!"
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  #6  
Old 11-30-2020, 02:25 PM
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Cubcadet_107 Cubcadet_107 is offline
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Well, if/when it happens, I want to see the progress, because it sounds like a cool project! However I would finish the 100 first before starting another project, otherwise you'll be mixing up parts and having trouble storing anything

As for the hydro, there really isn't much to check for wear other than the seals and gaskets, which may need replacing, or you just live with it like I do with my leaky 107

As long as you can spin the pump input shaft (off the engine/driveshaft) and it rolls freely, nothing is stuck, so most likely nothing is broken. Roll it and listen closely for any sounds that don't seem right, usually it's pretty clear when something doesn't sound right. If everything sounds and moves good, there shouldn't be anything wrong with the pump. You'll also want to inspect the Trunnion and it's springs, make sure the springs are not weak and make sure the holder slot doesn't have grooves worn in it. I don't feel the need to explain that any further as the worn Trunnion is something very commonly discussed here and there are much better explanations about it.

Changing the fluid and filter is the best thing you can do, when you remove the back cover take some paper towels and clean out any gunk that may have settled on the bottom of the case. I recommend you also remove the whole rearend from the frame, so you can remove the axles/spindles, and tip the unit to the side in order to drain out all the old fluid in the axle carriers. Once old fluid is all gone and everything is clean, new filter (proper filter) and new gasket for the back cover. Make sure the 3 longer bolts go in the lowest 3 bolt holes (they are longer for the rear drawbar hitch, if you force them into an upper hole the casing can crack) and then fill the whole case up with fluid just about up until it's level with the fill plug on the back cover.

Once the unit is up and running, about a quart of fluid will be sucked up into the pump assembly, so you're going to have to add more fluid again. IIRC they hold about 7 quarts total. Buy 2 gallons of hy-tran or something equivalent and you'll have a full hydro and a bit extra, in case it does leak.

Hope this helps
__________________

'70 107 with k301 engine swap
'71 106 with 38" deck
'70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck
'61 Original with 38" timed deck
'63 70 "pinkie"
1863 with 54" deck
'46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub

105 x2 (parts)
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  #7  
Old 11-30-2020, 02:53 PM
CubbyRI CubbyRI is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: RI
Posts: 384
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Thanks 107 it all helps I'd be lost without the replies and doing searches as well.

In retrospect, I missed this one sold near me for $350 or less. So clean! If I could find another like it I wouldnt hesitate!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 350 cub sold.jpg (43.8 KB, 92 views)
__________________
Model 100 Dec 2020 - Running condition, has snow plow!
Model 123 Nov 2020 Hydro needs much work, or resto, building front end loader for this one
Model 100 Feb 2019 apart for total frame-off / sandblast etc resto

Model 70 Sep 2020 needs total resto and an engine, or for parts
Model 70/100 Mar 2021 buried in rust, frozen engine, got free for parts.

two spare hydro rears
"in for a penny, in for a pound!"
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 11-30-2020, 04:53 PM
Cubcadet_107's Avatar
Cubcadet_107 Cubcadet_107 is offline
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Location: New York
Posts: 571
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Dang, shoulda got that one. Looks pretty nice.

(Also thank you to whoever moved this thread to the IH built section, I knew it was in the wrong place but didn't want to be rude about it)
__________________

'70 107 with k301 engine swap
'71 106 with 38" deck
'70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck
'61 Original with 38" timed deck
'63 70 "pinkie"
1863 with 54" deck
'46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub

105 x2 (parts)
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 11-30-2020, 06:21 PM
CubbyRI CubbyRI is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: RI
Posts: 384
Default

Oh no I put the topic in wrong section? Had no idea. Thanks as well to fixing my mistake!

__________________
Model 100 Dec 2020 - Running condition, has snow plow!
Model 123 Nov 2020 Hydro needs much work, or resto, building front end loader for this one
Model 100 Feb 2019 apart for total frame-off / sandblast etc resto

Model 70 Sep 2020 needs total resto and an engine, or for parts
Model 70/100 Mar 2021 buried in rust, frozen engine, got free for parts.

two spare hydro rears
"in for a penny, in for a pound!"
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 12-02-2020, 05:23 PM
drglinski's Avatar
drglinski drglinski is offline
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Michigan
Posts: 3,939
Default

the tunnel on a 123 is taller than a 122 as well to accommodate the additional space required by all the hydrostatic stuff (pump, linkage, etc)
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Daniel G.




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(May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller.
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