Oil Leak - Page 2

ironman · #11 01-21-2019, 06:48 PM

The manual does say 1/2" for a K321. I have done them and I don't think I went in 1/2", more like 1/8" to 1/4". But if I were Mr. Bob and I removed the flywheel and saw 1/4" of lip showing above the existing seal, I might consider putting in a second (new) seal on top of the existing one. Any thoughts on that?

Mr Bob · #12 01-22-2019, 11:04 AM

Ironman, that sounds like a good idea. Don't know if others will agree. If the first seal is a little cocked, I could correct it and put a new seal behind it. Will wait and see what others have to say. Have a great day.
Bob

dodge trucker · #13 01-23-2019, 01:31 PM

Well if you bottom that seal it will rest on a lip and straighten out
I've thought about just knocking the seal in and doubling them up before but haven't done one like that yet

ol'George · #14 01-23-2019, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dodge trucker

Well if you bottom that seal it will rest on a lip and straighten out
I've thought about just knocking the seal in and doubling them up before but haven't done one like that yet

My concern doing that would be that the lip of the new outside seal will get no lube and wear/burn up quickly.

but just speculation.

Billy-O · #15 01-23-2019, 03:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ol'George

My concern doing that would be that the lip of the new outside seal will get no lube and wear/burn up quickly.

but just speculation.

Yup.............. Maybe pack grease in between?

Gompers · #16 01-23-2019, 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ol'George

My concern doing that would be that the lip of the new outside seal will get no lube and wear/burn up quickly.

but just speculation.

Depends on how much the inner one is leaking

sawdustdad · #17 01-23-2019, 06:44 PM

I don't think there is a "lip" that stops the oil seals. If one is in crooked, or too deep, pull it out and try a new one.

ironman · #18 01-24-2019, 07:14 AM

Just another side thought for Mr. Bob. I was wondering, if the breather system were installed incorrectly, could that cause high crankcase pressures and force oil past the seal?
I don't know, just throwin' ideas out.

ironman · #19 01-24-2019, 07:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sawdustdad

I don't think there is a "lip" that stops the oil seals. If one is in crooked, or too deep, pull it out and try a new one.

No, I don't think there is an inner lip either. I don't get why it has to be driven in so far. What would be wrong with just making the outer surface of the seal flush with the surface of the bearing plate? Then at least you could see it isn't cocked.

sawdustdad · #20 01-24-2019, 10:39 AM

I just last night finished putting the oil seals on a K241AS, out of a 109. I had this block bored .030 over and I'm in the reassembly process.

The service manual shows the bearing plate seal to be 1/8 inch recessed from the flywheel side. (diagram in the service manual for a "battery" ignition engine). The area for the seal is only about 1/2 inch wide, so that puts a 1/4 inch thick seal about the center of the seal bore.

The rear (PTO side) seal has a much larger bore area/depth. The manual says 1/2 inch deep for the K241 and 0.12 deep for the K241A. Since I've got a K241AS, the 0.12" deep would apply. That's just about 1/8 inch. (0.125=1/8).

That's where I put the rear seal, 1/8 inch deep.

I don't know why the K241A has a different seal depth spec than the K241. Maybe somebody else knows why. I can't see how it would make much difference.