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#44
01-19-2019, 07:46 AM
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Ah, that feeling when the part that's been giving you troubles and wrecking your life finally makes that barely audible "pop" sound and breaks loose. Awesome.
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Grumpy old 149/1A tiller, Trusty Rusty 106, & a Massey Ferguson 10 to work the garden, Tiny Snapper to mow the lawn. Slowly accumulating attachments and quickly driving the neighbors crazy on a half acre homestead.  
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#45
01-19-2019, 08:51 AM
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Glad your efforts were fruitful. Now If I can make a recommendation. Before you reassemble it, if you do not have any get a small can of anti seize. It can be found at auto parts stores and many of the big box stores also carry it. Use it on shafts, key ways, nuts and bolts, any thing you may need to disassemble later.
4118N969ZAL.jpg
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#46
01-19-2019, 09:03 AM
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Quote:
Good for brake work,motor work/exhaust studs etc. (Actually I have both on hand) 
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#47
01-19-2019, 03:07 PM
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I agree that the kroil is a great product, better than WD 40, but as was suggested earlier, you need an oxygen acetylene torch, a propane bottle torch is all but worthless for something like that. Mapp gas is somewhat better. Propane doesn't burn as hot, it takes too long to heat it up and by that time the rest of the hub has absorbed the heat that you did put into it. The oxy acetylene is a much hotter flame, heats faster and more direct, gives it more of a "shock"
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#48
01-22-2019, 01:19 PM
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What procedure did you use that finally got it out?
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#49
01-22-2019, 06:25 PM
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Not to be a smart ass, but the 2nd photo says it all , and no doubt a little heat.
Chris
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1968 104 , service replacement '96 K301, 42" deck 1997 Scotts 42502X8 , repowered with '96 B&S 18hp TwinII , 42" deck 2007 LA130,21hp Intek v-twin, 48" deck  As you slide down the banister of Life, may the splinters point in the right direction . 
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#50
01-23-2019, 08:56 PM
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Sorry. Somehow I missed that pic.
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