Clutch basket / pulley set screw is stuck on

[Bamafan]

Originally Posted by IHCubCadet147

You don't have to waste or dump the oil into another container. Here is a video that shows how to refill aerosol cans.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=mimSDtqljMA

It works I used this on some primer paint cans, that had quit spraying.

[wagonmaster]

Going to try that tomorrow. I also have a can of PB Blaster that is almost flat.

[cooperino]

Originally Posted by R Bedell

Bill:



I have heard about this before. So I mixed up a 50/50 concoction and comparing it to PB Blaster, I went back to the PB. I found it didn't work as well.
I am PB Blaster kind of guy...LMAO

I keep Kroil an PB on the shelf as well.. I go for my cheapo mix whenever I know I will be using a lot and most will end up in the drain pan.

[sawdustdad]

Originally Posted by ol'George

Insert a pin punch that just fits in the hex where the allen wrench fits .
Then whack it smartly.
That shocks the set screw, & usually loosens it.
WD 40 is a water dispersant not a penetrating oil as mentioned.
If you have stripped the hex, try a metric allen wrench, hopefully you have not split it yet.
A new allen wrench is recommended as you need all the grip you can get.
If that all fails, heat from a torch played on the area around the screw will usually help, last ditch effort is drilling it out

This is sage advice. Spot on.

If it does come down to drilling, the set screw will be softer than the roll pin which is hardened/spring steel. I keep a few solid carbide twist drills on hand for such an occasion. (mcmaster.com has them). Drill then use an easy-out to remove the set screw. Buy some extra carbide bits, they are very brittle and will break if not careful. Actually, probably will break anyway. So get a couple.

Before trying to remove any difficult set screw, touching up the end of the Allen wrench on the grinder (or a belt sander) to get a nice square end is good advice. Allows for the best "bite" on the fastener.

[rsshallop]

Thanks Sawdustdad. I know what ol'george posted is the right way to tackle this problem. Even I can tell because it steps through from the least aggressive approach to the most aggressive approach with the emphasis and pointers on the least aggressive so as not to worsen the problem right off the bat.

So far I have used about a third of a can of PB Blaster without success. The opening for the hex key is fairly worn now, but I think I may be able to get some bite if I push the hex key straight down through the hole in the PTO clutch basket. I have made a few attempts to grab the nib of the set screw with small vise grip pliers, but now they keep slipping off. I'm going to stop doing this because I don't want to damage the integrity of the set screw any more than it already is.

At any rate, I'm just going to let the screw soak in PB blaster for a while longer and then try a few more tugs with the allen key. If that doesn't do it, then I will apply heat with my propane torch. After that, I don't know. I have been looking at left hand drill bits (something new to me), but I can't see how I would be able to drill straight given that there is not enough room for the drill chuck to get by the pulley behind the PTO basket.

Anyway, I'll let you know how it goes. One way or another, this screw is coming out.

Thanks, Ross

[sawdustdad]

You can buy a drill bit extension, a few bucks at a decent hardware store or Lowes/Home Depot. I think I'd try drilling and try an easy-out if the heat and PB doesn't work.

[GERKS 149]

I had a stuck set screw on my 149. Heat and PB Blaster didn’t touch it so in the end I used a left handed drill bit to remove it. Places like Auto Zone sells these. Many mechanics at the dealership I work at use this method. As you drill it out, it releases pressure on the screw and it has a backward turn and releases the screw. Used it many times myself. Worth as shot

[Tom Dowling]

I'd go with welding a nut on it

[finsruskw]

That was my 1st thought also, Tom

I'd go with a nut that will screw onto what's left of the set screw threads you can see in his picture, I believe they are 1/4 NC

The welding will induce heat into the screw ad surrounding hub, and will probably do the trick after waiting a few moments before attempting removal.

[cubs-n-bxrs]

I would try finding an easy out that will lock into the hole and give that a try.