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  #71  
Old 12-24-2017, 11:31 PM
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sawdustdad sawdustdad is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
That's what I would do. Just put a clutch on it.

I have a bunch of parts, so I'll have to see if I can scrounge up an entire clutch set up.
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  #72  
Old 12-25-2017, 02:52 PM
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Update. And Merry Christmas to everyone!

I charged my larger jump pack overnight and hooked it up to the tractor again. The engine, now disconnected from the hydros, cranked over quite smartly. But no start. I know I have spark, checked that yesterday. I know the piston is moving, it's chuffing appropriately. Spark, air, only thing left is fuel.

I just rebuilt the carb. Should be good there. Wondering why it's not starting...did I forget to adjust the valves? did I time the engine wrong? Umm...

Apply some starting fluid. Bang, bang, bang! (no muffler). Now realize it is just not getting gas. Perhaps float valve is stuck? Loosened the carb bowl retaining nut underneath. Gasoline drips out. OK, fuel in bowl, but not in engine.

Then it dawns on me. I never opened the carb jets!! 2-1/2 turns on the low speed idle and 2 on the main jet.

Crank it over and it springs to life! Idles nicely, runs up to speed just right.

Shut it down. Hook up the hydros to the engine. Will it crank and start driving both hydros? Shop is kept at 60 degrees (or warmer when I'm working), so hydros are not cold.

Yes! It starts easily and runs driving both hydros. Both hydros in neutral, so the tractor does not creep, indicating that I was successful in linking both hydros in neutral. Operated the lever and the tractor moves fore and aft! Don't have room inside to do more than a bit of movement, so too early to tell if both axles will run at same speed (or close).

Pics! Two neat Christmas presents received from my wonderful wife (of 41 years). Will have to find a suitable location in the shop for these.

Finally, the battery pack hook up--ground clamp on a bare spot on the frame and the positive clamp on the battery cable.

Link to a video of the tractor start and run. Enjoy!

https://youtu.be/rE7DjEvnhsU
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  #73  
Old 12-25-2017, 03:43 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Merry Christmas Frank!!
Diggin' the IH clock!
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  #74  
Old 12-25-2017, 08:44 PM
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Very nice!! sounds like you are well on the way to have a working tandem tractor!!

Like Jon said.... I am digging the clock!! and the banner.. your wife did good!!
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  #75  
Old 12-25-2017, 09:22 PM
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Fenders modified and set in place. I need to sort out the structural aspects of supporting a dump bed.

Pictures below--

The fender carnage...and the end result. Trying to decide if I'm going to leave the fenders basically as is, with the dip down between the wheels or if I'm going to cut them some more and weld in a flat piece to join front and rear into a single flat fender.

Or maybe just add some flat panels to the existing fenders to fill in and create a flat surface across the top and connect the bottom of the "dip" to create a little more structural integrity. This would create triangular area between the wheels, under the flat top surface. Will probably mock it up and see what looks best.

I wound up using the 147 fender in front because the 109's fender was badly rusted out around the foot pads. The 147's fender required some cutting and installation of a couple of pieces of flat steel to reconstruct the attachment points to the frame. Some other minor cutting to better fit the NF fender to the WF frame.

As it sits now, the 109's fender is on the rear, and fits perfectly with room for the battery and voltage regulator, so it solves that problem as well. Just need to extend the wiring harness back to that point for the regulator connections.

I've solved the seat mounting issue for the test drive at least, though I don't have a decent spare seat, only the metal seat pan that came with the 109. That will suffice for the test drive. Test drive may not occur until next weekend due to family commitments this week. We'll see...
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  #76  
Old 12-25-2017, 09:34 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Frank, that looks really good!

I'm sorry but I have a "but". The "but" is that the fender pan isn't really strong enough to support a dump bed. The bed needs to be attached to the frame directly and sit on it, then the fenders mounted to the bed. I just assumed you wouldn't use two fender pans. For example, I had to modify the Cozy Cab I got for my 1811 because the fenders flexed too much with just it, and the cab isn't really very heavy. I guess if you don't plan to make it hydraulic, or electric dump, or even dump at all, it would be ok. And as long as they weight limit is no more than a driver would be.... Maybe I'm missing the plan you have, but I really think you need to reconsider your point of attack..... but, it's your build.

Not nit picking or anything, just hate to see you go through all the trouble and it not work as planned. Just trying to save you trouble later.
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  #77  
Old 12-25-2017, 11:39 PM
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Looks sweet Frank.
"But" I would have to agree with Jon. Some frame rails along the box/flatbed, that can rest on the framerails of the tractor.
I'm picturing a dump truck right now. So that's where I'm thinking, that style. I think it's cool as is, "but"...
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  #78  
Old 12-25-2017, 11:50 PM
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You are correct, Jon, the fenders are not strong enough. I was planning to weld a frame of angle iron that would be supported directly from the tractor frame. Trying to decide where to attach to the frame, probably between the two fenders and inside the rear battery box. Then build up from there. The dump bed (or stationary bed if that's what I wind up with) will be above the fenders and not attached to them at all. The bed will extend with a pivot point out behind the rear wheels so it has clearance to go vertical, or nearly so.

The attachments to the frame in this configuration would only be a foot apart along the center line of the tractor and bed, creating a moment for loads that might be off center, stressing the frame. So it will either need to be robust or the load capacity will be limited. Of course, such a robust frame will be heavy and expensive.

So, I'm weighing all the trade offs to decide how I will proceed. with such a narrow frame (the two main frame rails are only about a foot apart), I don't think I have much of a choice as far as managing load moments (twisting forces from off center loads) on the frame. I think planning on 1000 lbs capacity is reasonable--that would be 3-4 scoops of dirt from my orange tractor's FEL. But I don't think this will see regular duty as a dump truck, more use as a utility mover for planting shrubs, moving hay bales, mulch, etc.
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  #79  
Old 12-26-2017, 12:21 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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I think planning on 1000 lbs capacity is reasonable--that would be 3-4 scoops of dirt from my orange tractor's FEL.

I think that number is a little far out there Frank. You don't have that kind of room. A dump bed that would hold that kind of weight would be pretty heavy in that small an area. I think you should be thinking more in the area of 500#. That's more reasonable.

You have a pretty small area to make the bed.... but I don't think the frame width is an issue at all. Just have to build the bed right. Think Kawasaki Mule like bed. (Or even (AHEM) a JD Gator.) The fame wouldn't have to be made that heavy, just with the proper style material, and gusseted correctly. But 1000#..... that's a pretty tall order.

Zip is right though. Bed frame needs to sit on tractor frame, and the pivot at the rear of the frame. You don't want even half the bed behind the rear axle, or the front drive will just be for looks. You may need to make this thing a little longer for what your wanting it sounds like. You could do 1000# if the bed is completely over both axles, and the seat forward of them.

EDIT: I keep thinking about this.... 1000# is still going to be a lot even if the bed is over both axles completely. I mean, that's 250# per tire/axle/tube (ect). It will carry it, but that's a lot of weight to start, stop and just move, let alone dump on such a small set up. I definitely think that's the top end of the possible payload.
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  #80  
Old 12-26-2017, 12:46 AM
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Lookin' good Frank. Nice to see it under it's own power, even if only a foot or two. What if you were to mount the future dump box on the frame as discussed above and then using the fenders cut off of the seat pan, mount them to the underside of the dump box. This way the dump box sits on the frame, the fenders go up with the dump box, and at a side view you retain the same look you had. Just a thought. You're doing good so far!
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