How do you adjust the voltage regulator? - Page 2

Hubman · #11 08-14-2010, 07:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by colt54

did you do a reverse polarity at the regulator before starting it? Its a forgoten part on some older thactors that need it done in order to charge right.

What does that mean reverse polarity , could you give more detail on what to do specifically to the regulator before starting .

Matt G. · #12 08-14-2010, 08:43 AM

Momentarily connect the 'BAT' and 'GEN' terminals on the regulator before starting to polarize the generator. It theoretically shouldn't be necessary on a starter/generator since it should polarize itself the first time it is used as a starter, but I still do it anyway. It is discussed in your service manual.

Hubman · #13 09-04-2010, 07:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt G.

Momentarily connect the 'BAT' and 'GEN' terminals on the regulator before starting to polarize the generator. It theoretically shouldn't be necessary on a starter/generator since it should polarize itself the first time it is used as a starter, but I still do it anyway. It is discussed in your service manual.

While picking up a engine today , mentioned V/R problems I was having . He said when ever disconnercting battery . It always is necessary to manually polarize the V/R . Any thoughts if really is necessary each time. If not done is this why so many of us have charging issues.

cubs-n-bxrs · #14 09-04-2010, 07:52 AM

[QUOTE=Hubman;40407]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt G.

Momentarily connect the 'BAT' and 'GEN' terminals on the regulator before starting to polarize the generator. It theoretically shouldn't be necessary on a starter/generator since it should polarize itself the first time it is used as a starter, but I still do it anyway. It is discussed in your service manual.[/QUOTE

While picking up a engine today , mentioned V/R problems I was having . He said when ever disconnercting battery . It always is necessary to manually polarize the V/R . Any thoughts if really is necessary each time. If not done is this why so many of us have charging issues.

I don't think that is a true statement about having to polarize the V/R every time the battery is disconnected. I have 8 tractors and 6 batteries so I am always switching batteries around and have never had a problem.

R Bedell · #15 09-04-2010, 08:00 AM

Hubman:

I agree with Cubs-n-bxrs. From my experience, I have removed and disconnected Cub Tractor batteries without issue.

ol'George · #16 09-04-2010, 08:01 AM

Back in my day that is the only type of charging system we had.
It was recommended to polarize a system if the generator and/or voltage regulator were replaced with a new one.
It was not necessary to do it every time a battery was disconnected/replaced
The reason to polarize was to initially get the current flowing in the right direction.

Matt G. · #17 09-04-2010, 08:33 AM

Yep, no need to repolarize when swapping batteries...to add to that, the S/G should polarize itself the first time it is used as a starter, but I was told by a reputable starter and alternator shop that it doesn't always happen and that it should just be polarized anyway, especially if the whole electrical system is new.

Hubman · #18 09-04-2010, 11:02 AM

Thanks for the responses . Glad to hear no need to polarize each battery swap. Since my tractor was having charging issues , I have been pulling battery and putting on charger every 2 weeks.

johncub7172 · #19 09-04-2010, 12:53 PM

OK, Here are some tests to preform BEFORE re-polarizing. 1. Confirm that the battery wire to BAT. terminal of the V/R has 12v dc to ground. This terminal is always powerd even if the key is off. 2. Remove the blue and yellow wires from both the S/G and the V/R. Check the wires for good continunity {zero ohms}. If ok, re-attatch both wires at both ends. 3. Start the engine and run it at FULL throttle. Using a jumper wire, temporarily ground the "F" terminal of the S/G to the battery or chassis ground. The S/G should charge at this point, and you should hear a definite drop in the RPM'S. If you have an amperage gauge, you should notice the needle in the charge position. 15 amps would be the max. charge out-put from the Delco-Rery S/G. This means the unit is charging, but it is an UNREGULATED CHARGE! NEVER leave your cub wired up this way! 3A. If the unit does NOT charge when the "F" terminal is grounded,{no re-duction in RPM'S is noticed}, the S/G is defective. 3B. If the unit DOES charge {RPM'S drop}, then the V/R is defective. 4. Then try your re-polarizing as mentioned above by other Members. The usual electrical failure on these units is that they will motor but not generate. This is caused by the generator FIELD COIL failing in open circut mode. This is info. that I have found but never yet had to use. Hope it helps!

CC Rider · #20 09-04-2010, 02:47 PM

One thing to remember is that not all VR's are created equal = meaning wired the same. If your VR is wired 1 2 3 from bottom to top it does not mean your wires will go on the same posts on the new VR. I just replaced a VR on my 149 and the old VR had 4 wires F Bat Gen & Gnd on the bottom. The new one was F Bat L & Gen coming out the bottom. The new VR grounds thru the case so you have to make sure it's bare metal at the mounting screw holes. I had to leave the ground wire from the tractor disconnected and the L terminal unused and it's working just fine. Be 100% sure of where your wires are coming from and what the actual terminal your hooking it to does.