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  #21  
Old 05-10-2019, 03:42 PM
IH1086 IH1086 is offline
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I shimmed it and got the pressure to 130 WOT with no change in the amount of oil coming out of the check valves. Maybe it because I have the fenders off, but it seems like it's leaking worse today than this winter. It's about 60 degrees today, but I keep the shop at that temp where it lives during the winter?
I should clarify also, I'm shimming the relief valve on the top by the check valves. The manual shows the charge pump relief valve on the side, but there is nothing there. Maybe because I have a manual lift? I did also remove the pickup tube and made a mess, and it's not plugged nor did I find anything in there....
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  #22  
Old 05-12-2019, 10:09 PM
IH1086 IH1086 is offline
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Hey guys. So I putzed around with this a little more for the last few days and can't figure out what the deal is. The manual says 90-165 is the correct pressure. I'm consistently getting 130 on the gauge. I took both check valves out, cleaned them, made sure they are free, and still the same. The relief valve also looks to be in good shape. No scoring or pitting.
Ol George you had in a previous post about being at #500… Am I looking at the wrong thing in the manual and I'm still way under pressure? Maybe I have a bad pump?
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  #23  
Old 05-12-2019, 11:03 PM
Dart1917 Dart1917 is offline
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My manual says w/o hydraulic lift 90-165 psi, with hydraulic lift 200 psi max. When I first posted about checking pressure I was thinking something was stuck allowing way to high of pressure and blowing out the little internal oring. It seems your pressure is good so I'm stumped about what could be causing your leak. Just to be sure, the leak is around the little button not the hex part of the valve, correct? Something is wrong for both your rebuilt and new valves to all be leaking. Without hydraulic lift the charge pump relief valve is on top. With hydraulic lift the one on top becomes the lift relief and the charge pump relief is on the side.
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  #24  
Old 05-13-2019, 08:49 AM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IH1086 View Post
Hey guys. So I putzed around with this a little more for the last few days and can't figure out what the deal is. The manual says 90-165 is the correct pressure. I'm consistently getting 130 on the gauge. I took both check valves out, cleaned them, made sure they are free, and still the same. The relief valve also looks to be in good shape. No scoring or pitting.
Ol George you had in a previous post about being at #500… Am I looking at the wrong thing in the manual and I'm still way under pressure? Maybe I have a bad pump?
getting old I guess,
here is the link to service manual pg 13, 15U type

http://files.danfoss.com/documents/s...l/bln-9646.pdf
*70-150 on non ported pump ( no implement lift)
*550-800 depending on what implement lift you have.
(in your case don't think you have that feature)
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  #25  
Old 05-13-2019, 12:41 PM
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ironman ironman is offline
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Maybe it's time to contact the seller that you bought the new valves from. Send him some pictures of your pressure readings while also showing the new valves leaking. Maybe he'd have some other suggestions.
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  #26  
Old 05-13-2019, 01:08 PM
IH1086 IH1086 is offline
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Dart,
Both valves are leaking out of the week holes on top they are the auto style.
George,
That's okay. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something.
Ironman,
I'll check with who I got them from to see if they can help any.
Thanks everyone, I'll let you know if I come up with anything.
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  #27  
Old 05-13-2019, 01:51 PM
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In your first thread you say you purchased new ones. My question is, are they new? or rebuilt? I ask because when rebuilding you need to weld the tip back on after changing internal parts and o-rings. If this is not done with the finest of welds the valve would not bottom out correctly in the pump. Also, If the welder gets the valve a little too hot during welding it could begin to melt the new o-ring as well. This might cause it to work for a little while as you said but fail prematurely.
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  #28  
Old 05-13-2019, 07:27 PM
IH1086 IH1086 is offline
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Cooperino, when I rebuilt my original ones I did it by filling the ends off rather than turn them. I only have a modified wood lathe, not a metal lathe. When I welded the ends back on I used my mig welder, and then filed the ends back down a little in my vice with the tip pointing down, and filling down, so I didn't get any metal in the valves. I thought I did everything right, but still had a leak. I bought new ones not rebuilt ones so I didn't have the same issue.... or so I thought.
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  #29  
Old 05-13-2019, 07:48 PM
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Metal getting in was not really my concern. Heat from the welding is what i would be most concerned about. It doesnt take much heat to damage an o ring. Depending on who manufactures the new ones they could potentially have the same issue.
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  #30  
Old 05-13-2019, 08:13 PM
IH1086 IH1086 is offline
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I just quickly tacked them when I did it, so the valve didn't get too hot. The only o-ring on it when I welded them was the internal one way at the top. There's no way that one got hot with 3 tack welds spaced out. I wouldn't have been able to hold the top of the valve after I was done. The new ones are crimped like the OEM ones.
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