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  #81  
Old 11-27-2017, 02:31 PM
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Chad126 Chad126 is offline
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
You have to take the whole unit out. The spring has to be compressed to take the disc out. Maybe you realize that..... but the way you worded it, it sounds like you think you can change the disc with the clutch/driveshaft still in the tractor. You will have to make some kind of a jig to hold the assembly so you can compress the spring.

There is a great write up in the tech tips section detailing a clutch rebuild. Unfortunately, the pics are not working. The site had some upgrades done not long ago, and some of the hosted pics still haven't been corrected. Not sure why....

Download the manual for your machine. It goes through clutch rebuilding. You also should have both plates faced on a lathe.
you read it just the way I wrote it because I didn't realize you had to take it all out, nor did I realize I would need to compress the spring

Thanks for the heads up.

Now I just feel dumb because It makes sense based on how the clutch works. Anyway, Guess I'll be building a jig soon. The weekend job just turned into a two weekend job. Thanks for the help guys.
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  #82  
Old 11-27-2017, 04:05 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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I'm sorry bud. You do not have to take the whole thing out just to change the disc. I don't know what I was thinking. You only have to remove it if you are changing the bearing. As long as you leave the linkage all together, the thro-out and pin will hold the spring.

But you really should pull it all and change the bearing and true up the plates.
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  #83  
Old 11-28-2017, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
I'm sorry bud. You do not have to take the whole thing out just to change the disc. I don't know what I was thinking. You only have to remove it if you are changing the bearing. As long as you leave the linkage all together, the thro-out and pin will hold the spring.

But you really should pull it all and change the bearing and true up the plates.
No worries at all!!! I think a lot of what you say because I've been reading on here and you have a VAST amount of knowledge on these things so I'll take your word on it and go ahead and do the full rebuild. I don't personally have a lathe, but I work at a die shop so I'll see if one of my buddies and put it on one and clean the surface up on the plates. . Thanks for the heads up.

I do have one more question. In the picture below, I have labeled some of the components with items 1-5.

1. Rear Pressure Plate
2. Rear Clutch Disc
3. Center Steel Clutch Plate (between the two discs.)
4. Front Clutch Disc
5. Front Pressure Plate.

I purchased the disc seen in the picture below from ebay. Does this replace items 2-4 above? I wouldn't think the fiber would hold up to the torque without the steel center, but this plate appears to be much thicker than my existing fiber plates, so I am curious to know if it replaces the OEM part 961-3002 (2-4) with the steel center. I am asking this in a rhetorical fashion, because I am reading from this site (http://************************.com/clutch.htm) that the solid fiber replaces
items 2-4 above, but I just can't see how it would hold up. What is your opinion?
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  #84  
Old 11-28-2017, 12:36 PM
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Sorry. The link didn't show right in my post.

It is "garden tractor pulling tips.com/clutch.htm"

remove spaces in website
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  #85  
Old 11-28-2017, 01:48 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Your link doesn't show because that site is not allowed to be used on OCC. The owner of it is not a man of good character. We ask that you don't even bother visiting his site. Definitely don't buy from him.



Yes, the one piece clutch disk replaces the fiber one. It will be fine.

I suggest a Kevlar disk from MWSC:
https://mwsc.co/products/clutch-disc...nt=28926891595

If you plan to plow (moldboard) with it, you might consider a heavier spring. Not necessary, but nohttps://mwsc.co/collections/clutch-and-driveline-components/products/clutch-springst a bad upgrade:
https://mwsc.co/collections/clutch-a...clutch-springs

Yes, it has 6 holes in it. You will only use 3.


Our sponsor Patton acres has the thro-out bearing for a good price.
http://www.pattonacres.com/cub-cadet...37r1-941-3056/

You will most likely need a teaser spring. They always seem to be broken:
https://www.cubcadetpartsnmore.com/m...mpression.html



Get a package of spirol pins from McMaster Carr. Good thing to keep when owning Cub Cadets:
https://www.mcmaster.com/#95755a415/=1aehrop


You can buy however you like. I just showed who has the better pricing. I wouldn't want to pay shipping from all those places. I suggest Cub Cadet Parts and more for OEM parts. Ebay has a lot of sellers, just watch the prices. Rich Patton may be able to get you all the OEM stuff (bearing and teaser spring) if you can get him to answer you. Been a lot of guys saying he is bad about not answering the phone, or getting things shipped out. You can also check out MWSC, they have complete rebuilt clutch assemblies. Just take yours out, and install the new, then ship them your old core.
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  #86  
Old 11-28-2017, 02:31 PM
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Chad126 Chad126 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Your link doesn't show because that site is not allowed to be used on OCC. The owner of it is not a man of good character. We ask that you don't even bother visiting his site. Definitely don't buy from him.



Yes, the one piece clutch disk replaces the fiber one. It will be fine.

I suggest a Kevlar disk from MWSC:
https://mwsc.co/products/clutch-disc...nt=28926891595

If you plan to plow (moldboard) with it, you might consider a heavier spring. Not necessary, but nohttps://mwsc.co/collections/clutch-and-driveline-components/products/clutch-springst a bad upgrade:
https://mwsc.co/collections/clutch-a...clutch-springs

Yes, it has 6 holes in it. You will only use 3.


Our sponsor Patton acres has the thro-out bearing for a good price.
http://www.pattonacres.com/cub-cadet...37r1-941-3056/

You will most likely need a teaser spring. They always seem to be broken:
https://www.cubcadetpartsnmore.com/m...mpression.html



Get a package of spirol pins from McMaster Carr. Good thing to keep when owning Cub Cadets:
https://www.mcmaster.com/#95755a415/=1aehrop


You can buy however you like. I just showed who has the better pricing. I wouldn't want to pay shipping from all those places. I suggest Cub Cadet Parts and more for OEM parts. Ebay has a lot of sellers, just watch the prices. Rich Patton may be able to get you all the OEM stuff (bearing and teaser spring) if you can get him to answer you. Been a lot of guys saying he is bad about not answering the phone, or getting things shipped out. You can also check out MWSC, they have complete rebuilt clutch assemblies. Just take yours out, and install the new, then ship them your old core.
Wow. Had no idea. I'll be sure not to give him reference and won't purhcase anything from him. I haven't been buying from him, just using the site for reference. Good to know though. The disc I bought was from Patton Acres. Should be here Friday Dec 1. I don't know why people are complaining about him not shipping out quick. I've bought a half a dozen items from him and EVERY item shipped that day and was at my house in Alabama in no more than 4 days.

Also, I will definitely consider the heavier spring because plowing is the EXACT purpose I had in mind for this little tractor. Nothing too strenuous, just some light and shallow turning in my back yard.

Again, thanks for the advice. I really appreciate it. I try not to ask questions that I can find the answer to myself, but some of these questions are so specific that I want to get opinions from the experts.
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  #87  
Old 12-01-2017, 10:02 AM
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Well I really get it now...

I thought I "got it" before, but now I really really get it.

I replaced the clutch disc and had the plates machined. Put it all back on and fired her up. She goes in to gear beautifully now after adjusting the clutch to the suggested gap per the manual. Had some huge adjustments to make on the carb. Somehow the adjustment screws were all messed up. I guess at some point someone tried to adjust them. Anyway, I set the carburetor per the manual instructions, turned the ignition, and this sweet little thing runs like a top. All the work finally paid off, and NOW I finally understand what all the fuss is about. These little tractors are a BLAST to drive. Sounds incredible at idle. I think I made a few neighbors mad driving her up and down the street late last night, but I imagine they understood as most have seen me working on it in the driveway for the past 3 months. Anyway, I finally get the hype behind these little K series setups.

I have a feeling I'll be getting another soon. Still some work to be done on this one (paint rear wheels, paint some hardware, get a new seat, and change oil again because I like to flush out the old debris with a few oil changes on these old projects), but all in all she is dang near complete.

Thanks for all of the help and advice. Much appreciated. Pictures of the finished product to come soon.
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  #88  
Old 12-01-2017, 10:42 AM
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Lanceskene Lanceskene is offline
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They are nice to operate arent they... now you just need some weight to the rear tires and you have a stump puller
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  #89  
Old 12-01-2017, 10:55 AM
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Chad126 Chad126 is offline
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Originally Posted by Lanceskene View Post
They are nice to operate arent they... now you just need some weight to the rear tires and you have a stump puller
They sure are.

That is one of the items I'd love to add to it! There are are a set of wheel weights on craigslist that I want, but they are about 6 hours away round trip. Not wanting to make that drive just yet...
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  #90  
Old 12-01-2017, 11:08 AM
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some nice Kenda Bear Claws filled with washer fluid will do the trick
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IH 154 Loboy(x2) w/creeper 3pt and 3160 deck
CCC 12.5 w/deck
Plus 35 or so non IH tractors
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