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  #21  
Old 05-23-2022, 06:58 PM
jgarvas jgarvas is offline
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Originally Posted by spndncash View Post
sorry, I should have stated the seat switch sounds to be operating correctly. the PTO switch may be the culprit.

since it starts you can easily test every other switch.
parking brake on - start the mower. if you pull either lever off the perch it should shut down the engine. if so they work
if you start the mower arms on the perches, shut off the parking brake it should still run until you get off the seat. if you get up and it shuts down the switch works
this leaves the PTO switch 925-1716A. and they are a bit pricy for what they are.
OK this is good info that I need to read through again. I know for a fact that the PTO switch is OK. I pulled every single switch out of its housing and ran an ohmmeter across every pin yesterday. When it was a pin marked NC I would see continuity until I opened the PTO and vice versa for every single combination so I have a high degree of confidence that the PTO switch is just fine.

I just got home from work so I’m gonna go outside and give this another try in about 20 minutes thank you for continually offering ideas in this thread
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  #22  
Old 05-23-2022, 07:22 PM
spndncash spndncash is offline
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no problem, electrical demons can be difficult to track down. when I say the switch is the culprit this also means they wiring leading up to that switch can be the culprit. dont just go buy a switch, trace out the wires and make sure there are no cuts or wires pinched or missing grounds or poor connections. check continuity from end to end and if it is not a ground then check it for resistance to ground - most of them even if they are running to ground should not be grounded once you unplug or detach them

english car ownership and several 2182's serve as life lessons! haha
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  #23  
Old 05-23-2022, 08:57 PM
jgarvas jgarvas is offline
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no problem, electrical demons can be difficult to track down. when I say the switch is the culprit this also means they wiring leading up to that switch can be the culprit.
Ok bear with me if you don't mind. I just cut open the loom and exposed a bunch of wire. I don't see anything at all to suggest a knick or a short, but here is what I found (and it appears thus far to be consistent with your original schematic).

The two wires that go to the seat switch - one is yellow, one is yellow white. Both of those wires have continuity to ground. If I move the brake release literally nothing changes - both sides have continuity to ground.

So I started to walk them back and about 10" into the loop they split into two wires. This is consistent with the schematic at the seat switch, which depicts two wires coming off either side of the switch (not just one). I've walked one back to the 5 pin wiring harness and I suspect that is the magneto. Should the magneto show grounded? The other wire appears to be working its way to the switch. What is C/M on the switch? Would that always be grounded or is this maybe indicating a failure at the key switch?

The other side goes to the normally open PTO position E, and its second wire goes to the brake switch's normally closed path to ground on the engine block. I see that green wire coming out of the harness (there are two).

I believe it would stand to reason that the brake switch's position A->G would be grounded when the brake is OFF - does that mean when the brake is released I should be grounded, but right now with the brake applied I should not? I'm going to probably have to break the bond between these yellow wires and test them individually, with the switches disconnected.

What I don't understand is no matter what I do these two leads always show ground. When I release the brake, nothing changes in that respect. Its still grounded (or shorted). So how does the magneto know to power down?

I start think its making sense and then it makes less sense

Edit to add: I disconnected the plug between the wiring harness and the engine. So the only connection that exists between the wiring harness and the engine are the two green ground wires. So I've eliminated the magneto from this testing and i see see ground on every yellow or yellow white wire.
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  #24  
Old 05-23-2022, 09:07 PM
jgarvas jgarvas is offline
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Edit to add: I disconnected the plug between the wiring harness and the engine. So the only connection that exists between the wiring harness and the engine are the two green ground wires. So I've eliminated the magneto from this testing and i see see ground on every yellow or yellow white wire.
Ok this is interesting. I've disconnected the plug to the parking brake switch because I can get to that. I still see ground on both yellow wires at the seat switch.

I'm starting to think the ignition switch is shorting to ground. I'm going to either take the right side panel off again because I'm a glutton for removing these 7 bolts twice a day, or I'm going cut the yellow wires to isolate the switch.
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  #25  
Old 05-23-2022, 10:14 PM
jgarvas jgarvas is offline
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I solved it and I want to thank all of you for your help.


This is the gray plastic socket that plugs into the seat safety switch/

The arrow points to a little movable plastic piece that has a coiled spring. I suspect the purpose of this is to short the plug out if you unplug it from the seat trying to circumvent the safety. I believe mine simply permanently shorted out even when it was connected to the seat. Go figure:

I removed it from the circuit and the mower lets me release the parking break and drive around. Now I just need to clean up all the wires, put them back in the loom, etc.

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  #26  
Old 05-24-2022, 07:00 PM
spndncash spndncash is offline
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I am glad you were able to find the fault and repair it.
I still believe you have a Z-Force 50 Kohler 53AA5B7P 53AA5B7P709 53AA5B7P710 53AA5B7P712 from the pictures of your machine. you may need to get parts - these models are all basically the same so you can use any of these to get cub cadet part numbers for what you need (link in the OCC header)
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