Only Cub Cadets

PLEASE PATRONIZE OUR SPONSORS!

Cub Cadet Classics R. F. Houtz and Sons

Patton Acres Binder Books

CC Speciaalties IH Cub Cadet Parts

Cub Cadet Parts & Service


If you would like to help maintain this site & enhance it, feel free to donate whatever amount you would like to!



Only Cub Cadets Chat!

OCC Archives


Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > IH Cub Cadet Tractors (GT)

Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 09-06-2009, 09:52 AM
TBell TBell is offline
New Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Ct
Posts: 29
Default New guy 127 ?'s

Greetings,
I just picked up a 127 Hydro, the IH serial number dates it Nov '69. Now the questions. Supposedly it ran 6 months ago, gas cap is rusted onto the tank, and with a new battery nothing happens so I doubt it. The insulation on some of the wires coming out of the harness are frayed and corroded. I know I can jump the solenoid to get it to turn over, but are there any neutral safety switches I need to look for? Also is there a way to release the brakes so I can drag it onto a trailer. I'd rather not have to work on it in the dirt, on the side of the highway. Any tips, hints or check this first would be great. Other than the above it looks in great shape, I don't believe it has been restored, all the decals on the motor and the sheet metal are readable, a little faded but in really nice shape. I have a lot of experience with Allis-Chalmers B series, and IH TD series dozers, my first Cub though.
Thanks for any info in advance.
Terry
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 09-06-2009, 10:07 AM
RPalmer's Avatar
RPalmer RPalmer is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 770
Default

TBell ,
I'm not sure of your color codes for the safety switches. The might be orange. There will be a two pronged female connector on them. They are found in the lower dash area. If you see something like this not connected check out your wiring diagram to make sure what you are looking at.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 09-06-2009, 11:50 AM
Yosemite Sam Yosemite Sam is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Medora, IL
Posts: 3,863
Default

There is a lever to set the brake on the pedal, push the pedal down and pull the lever back. I'm guessing that the pedal isn't locked down though, If the pedal is "up" then you need to release the relief valves on the transaxle. On the right side of the tunnel there should be a lever to release the valves with (I believe you pull the lever up) then the transaxle should "freewheel" and can be moved. If it's been setting long, the valves may or may not work. In any event you should be able to push the tractor onto a trailer (with some difficulty). Do not, Do not, Do not tow the tractor without popping the relief valves, as this is pretty-much the only way to ruin the hydro unit in a Cub Cadet.

The neutral safety switch is located just in front of the brake pedal shaft almost directly in the center of the tractor. Sometimes the switches are bad and the plug is removed and a jumper wire is put in the plug. The wires should be orange (one should have a black stripe). There is no safety switch for the PTO.

Cracked insulation/freyed wires is a pretty common problem. The fix is pretty-much a judgement call for the owner.

Be careful trying to get the rusted cap off of the tank, pliars will usually distort the cap or the neck of the tank making it difficult to use in the future.

Good Luck
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 09-06-2009, 12:02 PM
TBell TBell is offline
New Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Ct
Posts: 29
Default

Thanks, I was mostly concerned about the hydro. As this is the first hydro i've had the last thing I want to do is junk it before I even get it started! I will be tinker on it tonight or tomorrow. I will also post a few pictures as soon as I get it off the side of the road!
Thanks again
Terry
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 09-17-2009, 07:11 AM
TBell TBell is offline
New Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Ct
Posts: 29
Default

Update. Finally got around to tinkering and got her running last night. For a machine that hasn't run in at least six months I must say I am impressed! Needs a little carb work as it will only run on full choke, but lit right off and not a puff of smoke and idles very smooth. I was extremely careful removing the gas cap and have no damage. I am curious about the dump valve for the hydro. Should that be opened and closed with motor running or off? Any chance of damage if run for a few minutes with it open? As I had said this is my first hydro and I'm trying to be careful.
Thanks
Terry
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 09-17-2009, 10:16 AM
ajgross ajgross is offline
Inactive Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Milan IN
Posts: 840
Default

I don't believe you will damage the hydro running it with the valves open. The relief valves are there just for the purpose of moving the tractor when it is not running.

AJ
__________________
1980 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]482- Stock
1981 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]582- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch, Spring assist
1979 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]682- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch, Spring Assist, #1 Tiller
1980 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]782- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch
1983 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]982- Stock, Fully Optioned
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 09-17-2009, 10:54 AM
TBell TBell is offline
New Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Ct
Posts: 29
Default

Thanks AJ, I didn't think it would hurt but wanted to make sure. Hopefully I will have it moving tonight and into the shop tomorrow. Then a good going through.
Thanks again
Terry
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 09-21-2009, 08:24 AM
TBell TBell is offline
New Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Ct
Posts: 29
Default

Wild Bill,
Thanks for the info. I got her running and removed the access plate and hosed down the pins with penetrating oil, I can now go backwards and a good solid neutral. But no forward yet. I let it soak over the weekend and will try again tonight or tomorrow. Surprisingly the the unloader flap is in really nice shape. I think it was locked down(unload) for quite a while as the pin for reverse took a little coaxing but popped up and now moves freely. If forward is still stuck I will try to wiggle it with a pair of needle nose. It does have a steering issue though, makes a full left turn but barely anything to the right. Is this a common, easy fix?
Thanks again
Terry
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 09-21-2009, 08:50 AM
Matt G.'s Avatar
Matt G. Matt G. is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Wichita, KS
Posts: 5,664
Default

Changing the length of the drag link slightly will change how far it steers to either side. Most tractors that were used strictly for mowing are set up to turn tighter to the left to go around trees and stuff. Yours sounds like the PO got a little carried away with that:biggrin2.gif:
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 09-21-2009, 09:09 AM
RPalmer's Avatar
RPalmer RPalmer is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 770
Default

TBell, Matt is correct about the drag link. Something else you might want to look into is centering the steering wheel. A 100 I got had the same problem. Disconnect the right side steering link. Turn the wheel all the way to the left. Now turn it all the way to the right and count the number of turns. Divide that by two and turn the wheel back to the left that much. The wheel is now centered. And all things being equal you will have a full range of steering.

I think it was Mr. Bedel that made this information available when I needed it. Although he didn't know I needed it.:biggrin2.gif:. Anyway I centered the wheel, put on new tie rod ends and a good used left side steering spindle and it works like a champ.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:08 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

This website and forum are not affiliated with or sponsored by MTD Products Inc, which owns the CUB CADET trademarks. It is not an official MTD Products Inc, website, and MTD Products Inc, is not responsible for any of its content. The official MTD Products Inc, website can be found at: http://www.mtdproducts.com. The information and opinions expressed on this website are the responsibility of the website's owner and/or it's members, & do not represent the opinions of MTD Products Inc. IH®, INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER® are registered trademark of CNH America LLC

All material, images, and graphics from this site are the property of www.onlycubcadets.net. Any unauthorized use, reproductions, or duplications are prohibited unless solely expressed in writing.

Cub Cadet, Cub, Cadet, IH, MTD, Parts, Tractors, Tractor, International Harvester, Lawn, Garden, Lawn Mower, Kohler, garden tractor equipment, lawn garden tractors, antique garden tractors, garden tractor, PTO, parts, online, Original, 70, 71, 72, 73, 76, SO76, 80, 81, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 182, 282, 382, 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 805, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1015, 1100, 1105, 1110, 1200, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1605, 1606, 1610, 1615, 1620, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1912, 1914.