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  #1  
Old 08-03-2017, 04:28 PM
allyolds68 allyolds68 is offline
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Default Cub Cadet Grizzly 4016

This is my first foray into the Cub Cadet world. I picked up this Cub Cadet Grizzly 4016 on Monday. I was looking for a golf cart or something like a Toro Workman (which was totally out of my price range) and I can across this for not a lot (relatively) of money. Other than the clutch in the transaxle seeming to stick a little, it's in great condition. There is very little info on these early Cub Cadet UTV's. Apparently they were only made from 96-97 and parts are non-existent. I'm pretty handy so if something breaks I'll figure it out.

I looked all over the web and there is next to nothing about them except it seems the few people that own them, love them. I've already figured out that it's a Tuff Torq K30 transaxle with a snowmobile style variable belt drive system. It's a 16 hp B&S. It's got a lot more torque than a golf cart but it take a little work to drive it. It's not something my wife or kids are just going to get on and go. I bet it doesn't have more than a couple hundred hours on it.

Does anyone know anything about these?
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  #2  
Old 08-03-2017, 05:40 PM
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I-H73 I-H73 is offline
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W E L C O M E WOW Never seen one of the those. NICE FIND
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  #3  
Old 08-03-2017, 06:03 PM
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Never seen one of those, post some more pics if you don't mind. What's so hard about driving it? Hard to believe those hours are so low, my Kawasaki Mule is a 2000 Model with almost 1900 hrs.
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  #4  
Old 08-04-2017, 06:11 AM
allyolds68 allyolds68 is offline
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Originally Posted by john hall View Post
Hard to believe those hours are so low, my Kawasaki Mule is a 2000 Model with almost 1900 hrs.

It doesn't have an hour meter but the guy I bought it from purchased it a year ago from a woman whose late husband had owned it. He died in the early 2000's and it sat in a barn since. I believe everything is original including the tires which aren't worn out at all. The guy I bought it from hardly used it.

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What's so hard about driving it?
The transmission clutch (a linkage that comes through the floor that you hold down with your left foot to keep it in gear) seems to stick and it doesn't fall out of gear easily when you take your foot off it. You have to really plan your stops because once you let off it take a couple seconds for the clutch to release. It seems to be worse in reverse when your backing up a hill. If it doesn't release you're braking against the engine and the belt will start to burn up. I think the variable clutch belt drive could use a little love too. The engine side sheaves are a little rusty and could use a good emery paper polish.

I don't have a lot of pics yet. Mostly engine, tranny and serial number pics to try and identify what all the component manufacturers are.
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  #5  
Old 09-24-2017, 10:28 AM
JigFixture JigFixture is offline
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This basic unit has been sold under various brands with slight differences the Cub Cadet being the newest incarnation with the best overall setup.

To your point on parts being non-existent that is actually pretty contrary to the case here, the reason being you could call this an "assembled" machine instead of an engineered one - meaning parts were not specifically engineered and outsourced for manufacturing but rather the machine was designed to use already available "stock" parts. With perhaps the only exception being the Tuff-Torq (Kanzaki) rear differential (they call it a transaxle but technically it's just a FNR gearbox reduction to a limited slip differential) everything can be sourced by catalog as very common lawn mower, go-kart, industrial hardware parts. In fact one of the best points of this machine is its simplicity and cheap cost of repair. Brake rotors, pads, calipers, hubs, rims 4 on 4", axle couplers, shocks, ball joints, chain / sprocket for steering, lights and even the engine and CVT are universally mounted and you can replace any of them at your local farm store, catalog, online store etc., you just won't find it as Cub Cadet Grizzly parts

On the point of your clutch sticking problem it has nothing to do with the lever coming from the floor, that is your differential lock - which is spring loaded inside the differential which positively connects both output sides driving both wheels under power synchronously (same as common auto rear diff with locking feature & unlocked its easy on your turf). The problem is it's a very cheap CVT (a clutch with variable gear ratio as there is no speed change in the Tuff-Torq diff). It's a Comet 40 which is common on mini-bikes and the like, max rating is 16hp but the limitation is there is very little range in this clutch; its practically on/off and therefore very irritating in low speed situations / manuvering; also the top end speed of the machine is painfully slow in stock Cub Cadet form. I would recommend an upgrade to a 23HP Vanguard and a Comet 94c or 980. Just make sure you get a 1" bore on the drive and if I recall it's a 3/4" on the driven (input from the tuff-torq). This gives the machine more modern performance specs on par with todays farm utv's.

Overall it's a very neat machine in that it's one of the first 4 wheeled side by side UTV's, in the era it was built it was intended and marketed as a material transport vehicle primarily for farm use, you can fit a standard 40"x48" pallet of feed, grain or components in the back up to 1,000 lbs total payload and drive it to your various outbuildings or fields so the speed and lack of rear suspension are acceptable compromises for that usage. Today a 2wd machine with nothing but soft tires for rear suspension isn't going to sell real well but in reality this little Grizzly is actually quite a good machine it will not get stuck unless you are in raw forest and the ride is very smooth on any road or trail which is the lion's share of most peoples use anyway. Plus you don't see many all steel construction UTVs anymore.
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Old 09-24-2017, 10:31 AM
JigFixture JigFixture is offline
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PS I have some seats that I'd sell if you need them but it's just flat plywood with padding and can be recovered with vinyl from any fabric store for $10 if you want to take the time to repair yourself.
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Old 09-24-2017, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JigFixture View Post
PS I have some seats that I'd sell if you need them but it's just flat plywood with padding and can be recovered with vinyl from any fabric store for $10 if you want to take the time to repair yourself.
That's on heck of a sales pitch. Reminds me of Ron White, "You can take the donkey or the tram, it is the same price"
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Old 09-24-2017, 01:11 PM
JigFixture JigFixture is offline
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Ha ha, yes should elaborate; would only be looking to be reimbursed on shipping for the seats as I know the shipping would be pretty expensive a better alternative for you cost wise if you feel comfortable with it and don't mind not having the exact stitching pattern as the original is get a cut of vinyl you can lay over and staple to the plywood. In fact if you are willing to spend the time a new cut of plywood, new foam and new cover would be a good idea.

Also - if your vehicle is not moving without pushing the foot operated diff lock lever one of your rear axles is broken; it would be hard to see as it will be broken inside the couple on the wheel side (not the diff side) and this is a common problem these machines have as it's a 1" mild steel stub axle. If this is the case its probably the drivers side rear; pull the wheel and loosen the retaining collars on the stub axle and pull out to see.
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Old 09-30-2017, 09:43 PM
allyolds68 allyolds68 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JigFixture View Post
Ha ha, yes should elaborate; would only be looking to be reimbursed on shipping for the seats as I know the shipping would be pretty expensive a better alternative for you cost wise if you feel comfortable with it and don't mind not having the exact stitching pattern as the original is get a cut of vinyl you can lay over and staple to the plywood. In fact if you are willing to spend the time a new cut of plywood, new foam and new cover would be a good idea.

Also - if your vehicle is not moving without pushing the foot operated diff lock lever one of your rear axles is broken; it would be hard to see as it will be broken inside the couple on the wheel side (not the diff side) and this is a common problem these machines have as it's a 1" mild steel stub axle. If this is the case its probably the drivers side rear; pull the wheel and loosen the retaining collars on the stub axle and pull out to see.
Thanks for the detailed reply. I do need the seat. I'm pretty handy with a sewing machine so I could certainly do it myself but as upholstery takes a lot of time, I might be interested in what you have.

I didn't know the foot operated pedal was a differential lock. I suppose I need to pull the axle and get it rebuilt/welded or a new one fabricated. Right now I'm looking for a CVT belt for it. You'd think a 7/8"x49" belt would be easy to find but apparently not so. The only source I've been able to find is beltpalace.com for $68.

Right now I'm in the process of fabbing up a mount for a Wheelhorse plow that I found for cheap
on Craiglist.

I really appreciate your reply. You're the first person that has replied that has ANY knowledge about these models.

I sent you message

thanks

Mike
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  #10  
Old 10-01-2017, 10:53 AM
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wow that thing is super cool.
I'd really like to see some more pics of the whole thing.

I'm new here too but welcome aboard
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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