Need help installing XMW 3-pt plus reinforcement plates

[Rex B]

Originally Posted by CubDieselFan

Here is my 1772 with the fenders off and the tires removed.
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I see your frame plates are a bit different from mine.
One issue was whether the arms should bolt to inside out outside the plates. I found photos of both methods. I think inside mounting would line up with the axle housing alone, while exterior mounting would work with the 3-point and the required spacers.

Kinda hard to see detail when everything is black!

[Sergeant]

Originally Posted by Rex B

I wondered about that. If I had it to do over I'd probably have got one of those A-frame w/receivers and skipped the draw bar. I'd be money ahead

As for the Cat 1, I only have a single Cat 0 implement, and that is a rear blade. For my needs I have not found another implement that I can use.

I'll just be dragging dirt with the blade, and towing trailers.
We don't have snow here enough to need to move it.

Cat 1 Implements can usually be found at Lower Prices than Cat 0. About 20 years Back a Brinly Cat 0 Blade was about $400 and a Worksaver Cat 1/0 Blade was $125 Basically that blade was a Cat 1 Blade with Cat 0 Pins when I bought it new In 2001. In 2003 I added a Garden tractor with a Limited Cat 1 3 point hitch and Just Bought Cat 1 Pins for the Blade. I was just Pointing out easier to find Cat 1 Non PTO Power implements today over Cat 0 There is 1 or 2 Cat 0 Implement Manufacturers today. For the Most Part Cat 0 is really dead as a Implement size

[Rex B]

While waiting for the hardware kit, I went ahead and bolted up the backplate. Next was the down stop adjustment rod. It slides through the hole and under the 3-pt cross-shaft - just barely! The problem is there is no space for the tensioning coil springs to clear that cross-shaft.
I found a perfect spring with smaller wire and about the same overall compressive strength, still a no-go. Must be less than 1/16" clearance.

So my options appear to be to

(1) install the rod without the spring(s). I guess it would just rattle, but i doubt I could hear it. I could possibly devise a way to position the spring further up the rod, away from the shaft. or....

(2) leave the stop rod off completely. This tractor will only use the hydraulics to run the 3-pt. I do have a deck for it so would like to retain the ability to use that.

So how essential is this stop-rod? Is it just for use with a mower deck?

Looking at this again, there may be a 3rd option:

(3) Use one of the higher holes in the back plate. Nothing I have uses those. I could turn a reducer bushing to fit and move the rod up enough to clear. I'm thinking I'll try that.

EDIT: #3 is a No-go. In either of the alternate positions the handle interferes with the 3-pt arms.
I suppose i could cut that L off and replace it with a nut or even a 3/8" socket female. I don't like to make irreversible modifications.

Suggestions welcome

[Rex B]

If I go with (3) above, I'll need a bushing. I made a sketch first. With idle time and an idle lathe, I picked through my scrap for a piece of 1" round material. The first thing I found was a stick of plastic of unknown origin, maybe from some sort of printer. I looks like nylon but is stiffer. It also had a reduced end perfect to center my spring. Turned out just right.
If it doesn't hold up I'll make a replacement of steel. I doubt I'll need to.

I'm leaning toward cutting off the handle enough to clear the 3-pt arms. Somewhat reversible, but probably would require a tool to turn it due to loss of leverage

[Rex B]

I went ahead with Option 3. Looks to work just fine. I'll make a steel bushing one winter day when I get bored. Till then (or longer), this will do.

Next time I take it out I'll probably cut that L off and weld a 3/8" square drive socket on it. That will let me attach a speed handle should I ever need to use it.

Sure will be glad to get this together. I'm scheduled for rotator cuff surgery in 10 days, after which I'll be pretty much incapacitated for a month.

[Rex B]

Sam seems to have dropped off the face of the earth about a month ago.
Have not seen him post on the FB groups either.

[Rex B]

The Bolt kit arrived while i was eating lunch.
Contents:

8 - Bolts 3/8 USS x 2.75 long.
8 - 3/8 lockwashers
8 - spacers 3/8" x 1" OD x 3/8" ID
4 - Bolts 3/8 USS X 1.25" w/locknuts
4 - Bolts 1/2" USS X 1" w/locknuts

Spacers look right, at least for 6 locations. I would have preferred 6 like this, and two that were 1/2" OD X 3/8" ID for the overlapping bolt location. I decided to make a couple.

Back to work.

[Rex B]

Finally got this together, pleased with the results.
If I were doing this again I probably would have skipped the hitch receiver and just used a drawbar attachment instead. I would also specify the SGT lower arms. This kit came with the same arms as used on the GTs even though the OE SGT arms and downlinks are larger.

Now I need to work on some electrical gremlins.
There is a short in the lighting somewhere, so those are disconnected.
The engine now longer shuts off when the key is turned off. I sure hope that white wire on the coils hasn't come adrift.

I did order a proper plug for the back of the ignition switch. Should be here tomorrow.

And then I'll get to work on the plastics.

Photos before and after