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#21
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Thank you Both, I got a little further last night. Snapped one of the rusty bolts holding the hood on. the other came off fine. Going to take the grill and grill support off tonight. This might be a dumb question, but I cant find it on the parts diagram for the electrical system... what is the small button on the left side of the motor? Its below and in front of the carb. I took the housing for it off, but I don't know what it is supposed to do. Any tips for taking the exhaust pipe off? Trying to budge it I lift the tractor off the ground and it still doesn't turn. soaked it in blaster for the past 2 nights. I got the lock nut off but no dice on the pipe itself. I appreciate everyone's help. I'm learning a ton as I go! |
#22
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If you took the "housing" off, it should have been obvious if you know what the part under the housing is. The button is a kill button. The "housing" is the point cover, and the ignition points are what is under it. When you push in on the button, it grounds out the ignition and kills the engine. It's just a secondary ignition kill. Not all engines had it. Quote:
Take a propane torch and heat up the engine block all around the pipe. (Leave the engine in the tractor, as it makes for a great way to hold it.) Once the engine is warm, use a really big pipe wrench, or use a cheater pipe on the handle. Turn that thing until you almost flip the tractor over. Quick pulls are better than constant pressure when staring. In other words, put the wrench on and get it to where you can jerk on it, or low so you can stomp on it with your foot. I also suggest using Kroil instead of PB blaster. I would also remove the head, and if the engine will rotate, open the exhaust valve and put Kroil down the valve so it can get to the threads on the pipe. Or remove the exhaust valve. Put Kroil in when heating, but try not to breath the vapor. Heat, and beat.... and it still may fight you, but usually they start to move and come out. |
#23
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X3 on rebuilding it.
Take it off, then clean it good. Then clean it again. Order a rebuild kit and take your time. Should be easy peasy.
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"Equality is about giving everyone an equal chance, not about giving everyone an equal result." 1971 126 w/ Brinly Sleeve Hitch, Plow, Discs, and Cultivator http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=50159 |
#24
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You are right, I do not... Thats why I bought the tractor in the first place, figured it would be a good place to learn rather than my daily driver or the Porsches I have in the garage. They are probably just a little more complicated than this thing. even the '87 has 1000 parts that I don't know what they do. I really appreciate all the help. I noticed last night someone converted it to a different choke, I'm going to pick up an original choke cable and convert it back. Not sure if the choke cable connects to the choke adjustment lever on the carb directly or if i need another piece for that end. Still looking into it. Thanks for the tip on the pipe. Im going to attempt that tonight if I have time. I have a couple cans of kroil, ill switch to that. I also dug out the 5 gallon parts cleaner. need to start cleaning things as I take them off. Thanks again! |
#25
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Im worried about finding parts for the throttle assembly. Im going to take it apart, see what is worn/broken/missing, and go from there. As a backup, I have the chinese one.
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#26
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There's really nothing on an O that is unobtanium. Another fact to remember is they're not very fussy. They can and DO run well and do good work while things are far less than perfect.
The Chinesium carbs work pretty well. Your carb is quite rebuildable. A small can of carb dunk and some time and I'll work fine. They're easy to rebuild and adjustment is not fussy. Mine is one of the more ratty O's that Jon refers to. Its rusty and ugly, burns oil and ALWAYS starts , stops and shifts. It's good to remember that while oil changes, lube and maintenance are good for all machinery, these are NOT fussy machines to get and keep running. Jump in there and learn and have fun. Rebuild kits are on ebay for about $6 plus change (free ship). If I have time, I can measure/trace that little bellcrank that's on the O's . It's just a piece of small metal rod with a particular shape connecting the throttle to the governor mechanism. If you get close, it'll run fine. Maybe if I lay one out on a grid you can replicate it, should you not be able to find one.
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61 and 63 Originals 123 (2) 782D 106, 147, 122 102 parts It's only original ONCE!
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#27
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Yes.
Don't, unless there's something seriously wrong with it. If it's intact, there's not much to gain from muscling it out. On the other hand, it's possible you could damage it, or pull the threads out of the block, etc. THEN you'll have a problem. "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". is a maxim that's worth internalizing :-)
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61 and 63 Originals 123 (2) 782D 106, 147, 122 102 parts It's only original ONCE!
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#28
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Ok update... got the exhaust off. Heat and a couple snacks and it came off. Also took the grille and grille frame off. Same with the generator and top tins/gas can holder. 2 questions came up. One... front pulley... do I need a puller to get this thing off? Best way to go about it? Two... carb... the issue is the the brass throttle rod that holds the circular plate is not connected to the control paddle that connects to the governor. It spins semi-freely... so... do I fix that with solder or? Pics to help explain myself coming below. Thanks! |
#29
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I wouldn't worry too much about pulling the threads in the block. If you look John, the exhaust and muffler is all wrong, and hitting the grille shell. He needs to take it off, and at the very least, put a street 45 on it and get it back away from the grille. |
#30
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More pictures of progress and another question...
The white "bar" near the right side of the coil (maybe that's the right name?) Connects to the choke switch someone put on this thing... and the other thing on the left I'm not sure what it is. Are these original to my O or are they additions I can do away with? Thanks again guys. I'd be lost without this forum |
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