682 CH23 swap

[SS5150]

Originally Posted by 682ch23s

Looking at Jeff's page here on the site; is the driveshaft adapter the "drive hub"?

I'm going to say yes, it looks like the proper adapter.

1863/4 shaft doesn't seem like it'd be easy to find. Just under $200 new.

[682ch23s]

I'd looked through some of the popular retail sites for 1864 parts; they seem hard to find.

A few images up from the hub, it looks like Jeff sells custom-made driveshafts too.

I like the idea of a spacer, because then I get to keep & reuse the 682 driveshaft. I've already got a broken KT17 that needs a resting place, I'd prefer not to add an otherwise useable driveshaft to the list.

[Jeff in Pa]

Originally Posted by 682ch23s

So I have a CH18 driveshaft adapter off an 1864 on it's way, on the idea that it will match both the CH flywheel pattern and the 682 driveshaft bolt pattern. If that's so, then there's still the driveshaft length problem. My thought is to fab a spacer between the flywheel and 1864 adapter. Thoughts?

If your couplers are in very good condition, I can make a driveshaft for you.

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

Buy a pump adapter from Jeff and get an 1864 or 1863 drive shaft and be done with the rag joint problems. It's all bolt in.

The adapter allows you to use a CV style driveshaft which works much better than the ragjoint style driveshaft. I can lengthen or shorten a driveshaft to fit.

Originally Posted by 682ch23s

I'm looking around for a driveshaft; we'll see what turns up.

Originally Posted by 682ch23s

Looking at Jeff's page here on the site; is the driveshaft adapter the "drive hub"?

No, that is for the NF and WF drive line and mounts to the engine.

Attached is a picture of the pump adapter ( right ) I make. I also have a similar adapter for the splined pump too.

On the left is the engine adapter for the kubota engine.

[Jeff in Pa]

Originally Posted by 682ch23s

I'd looked through some of the popular retail sites for 1864 parts; they seem hard to find.

A few images up from the hub, it looks like Jeff sells custom-made driveshafts too.

I like the idea of a spacer, because then I get to keep & reuse the 682 driveshaft. I've already got a broken KT17 that needs a resting place, I'd prefer not to add an otherwise useable driveshaft to the list.

The possible problem with a spacer is any misalignment of concentricity with exaggerate running out and will wear other driveshaft components more quickly.

A drilled driveshaft is $30 plus shipping.

[682ch23s]

Jeff, thank you. I sent you an email through the website here.

[Jeff in Pa]

Originally Posted by 682ch23s

Jeff, thank you. I sent you an email through the website here.

Replied

[sorner]

I would not fab a spacer for the driveshaft, that's asking for trouble.

I have a few engine plates laying in my garage from 186X's. If you hack it up trying to drill it and need another one, or if you just want to get one and switch it, they're out there.

[682ch23s]

Update. Hooked jumper cables to the CH23 & put gas down the carb; started easily and without smoke. The exact model number comes back to a SCAG zero-turn. Haven't checked compression yet; it could be really tired (but at least it runs).

Pulled the KT17; broken rod nearly punched a hole in the side of the block. Everything else (carb, manifolds, ignition, etc.) is really clean; is there a big demand for KT parts?

The CH18 adapter I bought bolts up to the CH23 and the ragjoint; a trip to the hardware store for the right flywheel bolts is in order. No measurements yet on how far off the driveshaft length is. There's a really nice flat mating surface between the CH18 adapter and the ragjoint; if the length isn't far off I'll consider a spacer in there. I already need longer mounting bolts. The bolt pattern looks very similar to old American radiator fans and every go-fast catalog has a huge selection of spacers for radiator fans. I don't want to cantilever stuff too far off the surface of the flywheel

The 682 electric PTO clutch slips right on, but the block has extra mounting bosses that push the clutch plate 1/8" off the block. That's preventing the clutch from being as far enough up the crank to snug against the crank flare. I'll slice off the extra bosses with a Sawzall. If folks here think it doesn't matter if the clutch is snugged up against the crank flare, I'll just make up the 1/8" for the mounting bolts with washers and leave the extra bosses alone.

The crankshaft is longer than the KT (3/8-1/2" longer). Should I find washers that fit over the crank to make up the difference, or slice off the tip of the crankshaft?

Note: remove the engine plate bolts from the underside of the tractor. The easily-accessible nuts are spot-welded to the engine plate.

[682ch23s]

Engine plate drill dimensions:
http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showp...8&postcount=16

My CH23S appears to have a 3.5" bolt hole spacing.

[682ch23s]

I broke out the tape measure and looked at ragjoint mount to PTO clutch pulley lengths; the CH with the Cub Cadet adapter ends up being about 1-1/4" shorter than the old KT (imprecise measurements). Assuming the PTO clutch pulley ends up in the same location, I have about a 1-1/4" gap to make up. I hope to have an in-situ measurement tomorrow.

Ragjoint has a little bit of twist to it, but doesn't look at all degraded.