Kt-17 series governor gear missing, what now!?

[J-Mech]

George is correct that the pin is NLA. I wouldn't use the old one. 1.) It's been chewed on. 2.) It already fell out.

Before I did anything, I'd look that crank over good. That rubber plug in the hole looks like it's been in oil a while. They may have ran that thing with no governor and who knows how fast it was running. Crank and/or the rods may be in bad shape.

I don't recommend putting alot of cash in this.. probably not much life left in it anyway. If you must repair it, have a shop make a new governor pin.

[2009Dodge]

That sounds like a plan. I'll check that crank out first. It would be hard coming up with a replacement for that I suppose or would the John deers have the same shaft size and be drilled the same. Is it spendy to get a crank ground? I seen some kits on eBay for about 200 with standard rods rings and gaskets. A couple block halfs floating around on there too. I don't think I'm going to use that half between the governor and oil pump gear I can get a block half cheaper. The governor shaft is pretty rough too.

[J-Mech]

Unless it's cracked, that block half is fine. It didn't break a web, or in a high pressure area. I wouldn't worry about it.

Crank grind should run about $75 give or take. JD crank is different.

I am going to say this one more time..... it isn't worth putting a bunch of money into. BTDT.

[ol'George]

FWIW:
Blocks are machined as a pair.
Do not ever just buy 1/2 a block.
Well it is ok, If you are using it for target practice or a l fishing anchor or some silly such.
There are complete blocks on ebay like I said before, and they show up regular.
I bought one this spring for a project, for $40 plus shipping.
it came with gov, oil pump,cam plug, oil pump screen and end cover and the curved oil fill which is more convenient that a pipe plug.
As John says don't go spending a lot of $$ unless you are comfortable with that.
Sometimes a block/crank shows up in the event yours might be beyond repair.
if you are not in a hurry you can find the parts you need reasonably.
lets us know what you plan and we can advise you.
I, as you can tell, like the old double breasted opposed flatheads.
Not to say the newer engines are not good.
Also there are parts for other brands that will fit cub.
The deere Blocks will work but the crank PTO diameter is 1", cub is 1-1/8
Rods are the same. etc. etc.
Vertical blocks/cranks will not work for you, because they are machined different.
Enough for now.

[J-Mech]

I just want to say, (for the record) that I too really like the old H opposed motors. I think they make far more torque than the v-twins. I just have seen too many people spend a butt load of cash on them, then watch them grenade shortly after. I'll work on my own, but I won't do it for other people. The parts are just too expensive for it to be worth it. That said, I'm fine with you playing with it, or even fixing it.... Just so long as you understand what you are working with.

Maybe someday they will make affordable aftermarket parts, or I can find a viable solution to rebuilding them that doesn't make them cost as much as a brand new motor. (So I can sell them.)

[ol'George]

John, as usual, speaks from experience, and is spot on.
Luck with your project, as I have said before, which ever way you go.
Do research if you want to go with rebuild, before you spend $$
needlessly or unwisely.
Some folks here have gone with new repower engines/kits and couldn't be happier.
different strokes for different folks it has been said.
It is difficult to rebuild even Vehicle engines today, with the cost of a crate motor being so low, compared with the cost of machining, parts and the mechanic's labor.
A mechanic just can't make a buck.
It is just the nature of things.
30-40 years ago a 2 slice toaster was about $40 when it failed we fixed it.
or TV sets were taken to repair.
Today you can buy 4 toasters for that,
and we throw big screen Tv's away and just buy new when warranty is expired. don't have to like it, it's just the way things are.
Good night, past my bedtime
Ha,LOL

[2009Dodge]

Thank you everyone for the help! I really do appreciate it. My dad helped me look over the crank and it is in spec we used plasti guage. I can't remember the numbers off the top of my head. The cylinder walls looked ok. We didn't have the micrometers to check the bores. We found some more block damage on the other half a couple stress cracks. I really want to save the motor because it's just a hobby for me and couldn't justify spending 1500 bucks on a replacement motor. Even taking a gamble on a used motor isn't worth it to me. So I found a used block on eBay for 50 bucks plus shipping it didn't have the side block off plate but it is a series 2 with the square cap that says out on the front of the block. My dad seemed to think it would work ok. I also picked up a gasket set for like 45 bucks that had all the gaskets I need. For $100 it's worth it to me to put it back together even if it is less than ideal. The motor ran really well before I took it apart and couldnt hear any internal noise unless I turned the idle to the point where the motor was barely spinning. Now just waiting on parts I'll worry about the valves after the motor is back together

[ol'George]

Be advised:
since you are changing the block, your valve clearances will be affected.
after you install the cylinders/pistons you will need to check the valve clearance
and set them.
if they are too loose, it will run but will be noisy, and if too large a clearance, is hard on the valve system.
If they are too tight, the valves will not seat and it will not have compression nor run.
I have advised you previous to download the free service manual, Have You?
if not do so and follow it religiously.
We will help you but you have to follow the manual and ask for help when stumped, nobody wants to see you waste $$ or work needlessly.
Take your time and make sure you understand what you're doing.

[2009Dodge]

Thank you for the advice George. Yes I downloaded it! It's nice that that's available because the one for my 1845c loader was kinda spendy even in pdf format. I also took your advice and got the yamalube bond 4 to seal the case. I'll check valve clearances when the block is back together It looks like the parts will be here in a week or so. I don't put many hours on my tractors so it will probably go quite awhile when it's back together. I picked up an old dodge with a bad injection pump and 350,000 miles on it. Now the truck has 510,000 miles and still hauls my but to work an hour one way. Sometime things will live lives well after they should have been put down

[J-Mech]

What George said.

An 1845C has a Cummins in it.....