Anti-smoking (engine) campaign: 1450

[Calvins66Cub]

When I used to work at a lawnmower shop, we used a Neway valve seat cutter. They are pricey ($350+). Not for a one-time use, but they are nice.
Hand operated. We had 3 or 4 different angles to get the contact just right. You can google it to check it out. Might find a small engine shop that has one you could use.

[sawdustdad]

Thanks for the education on valve seats. I had no idea. This is why this place is so great! Now i can speak intelligently to the machine shop. They do a lot of Kohlers, he saw it coming and knew exactly what it was. So I'll ask his advice on the seats and guides. I hope to find out tomorrow what the results of the cylinder bore were and how the crank fared.

[Sugarmaker]

Good post on details of engine rebuild. The shop I used last for the 14 hp wanted the over sized new piston in hand prior to doing bore work. Second I suggested he change the valve guides and he said that they did not need it. I followed his lead. Always is rewarding to hear one of these fire up after a rebuild. Good luck and keep us posted.
Regards,
Chris

[sawdustdad]

The shop called, said the cylinder will go 0.010 over and the crank was ground 0.010 under. The cylinder was 3-4 mils out of round and the crank was 0.0015 below the min. He said the seats just needed to be ground, not replaced.

I ordered the master rebuild kit off ebay, and will take him the valves when they come in so he can finish it up.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by sawdustdad

The shop called, said the cylinder will go 0.010 over and the crank was ground 0.010 under. The cylinder was 3-4 mils out of round and the crank was 0.0015 below the min. He said the seats just needed to be ground, not replaced.

I ordered the master rebuild kit off ebay, and will take him the valves when they come in so he can finish it up.

All good news! Sounds like you have a good machine shop!

[ACecil]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

All good news! Sounds like you have a good machine shop!

I agree! Thanks for the update.

[sawdustdad]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

All good news! Sounds like you have a good machine shop!

And guess what? The result was EXACTLY what you said it would be, Jonathan.

It's my first experience with this shop, but it's the "go to" shop for Richmond, VA and others have said they do good work. The machinist called when he said he would, that's a good sign.

[dvogtvpe]

I prefer to have the piston in hand also. while you can bore to .010 and just measure it . I guess in a world of + and - ranges for manufacturing I still like to put the piston in the bore and check the side clearance with a long feeler gauge . I've just seen to many rebuild go bad by assuming

[Sam Mac]

Originally Posted by dvogtvpe

I prefer to have the piston in hand also. while you can bore to .010 and just measure it . I guess in a world of + and - ranges for manufacturing I still like to put the piston in the bore and check the side clearance with a long feeler gauge . I've just seen to many rebuild go bad by assuming

I agree with this, my race engine shop would not bore my block until he had the pistons for it. I'd get the new parts and then hand the shop the parts and the block.

[J-Mech]

The shop I currently use, and the one I used before they closed, both would take my blocks and bore them to just under a size. Like .0075, or .018, that way we would know how much it needed, then order the piston, and finish the bore. That way, they could still cut and fit. I preferred this because, before, we might think .010 would get it, and it wouldn't. I agree, piston in hand before the bore is finished, and I ALWAYS check skirt clearance. Even if my shop tells me it's good. I usually double check my crankshaft journals too. Only had 1 crank that had a mistake, but it would have cost the motor had I not caught it.