rebuild kit

[Matt G.]

Have you checked the service manual?

[Quagmire]

Don't have one yet. The owner waited till now to take it out so he has all winter to scrape up the cash. A manual is the first thing I'm going to get out of him as soon as he comes up with some cash. I'm just trying to get a head start, see just where we are at with things. I'ts strange the intake has more clearance, I'd think it should be the other way around.

[Matt G.]

You can download it for free at www.kohlerengines.com.

[Quagmire]

I didn't have any luck with that, I'm just not any good with pc's as far as down loading, saving, etc. Does anyone know the valve to guide clearance ?

[Quagmire]

Ok, I got a new factory manual now and I have a few ?'s. It says the valve face angle is 45* and the seat angle is 89* ? I've ground my share of seats and have all my own equipment to do it but I've never heard of a seat angle being that steep ? Every seat I have ever done has been 45*. Is this right for this motor or should I grind the seat at 45* to match the valve face ? Next ?, it says .0045 intake and .0065 exhaust for valve stem clearance but it does not say any range, like .003 -.0045 etc. I'd like to size them on the tight side for the sake of a future rebuild. I have guide equipment and can size them to any size. Also being as I need new valves anyways, are new valves available with oversized stems ? That way I could bypass replacing the guides all together.
Would it be worth getting a used head and milling out the cylinder area to make a torque plate for this motor ? I've made them for small engines in the past and I always use them on Harley's. Any thoughts on that ?

[ol'George]

I would have to think that the *89 is a misprint!
The most I've seen is *45 with *46 interference some feel the 1* is better others seem to stick to 45-45*
The kohler blocks are pretty stout and while a torque plate has many virtues,
It is my feeling that you just will not see the benefit of finish honing with one installed.
FWIW,
Usually a torque plate is made out of thick steel, not the aluminum that the head is made out of.
You can go to parts tree . com to see if oversize valve stems are avail.
Some valve recession into the block takes place, so I would try to stick to specks not tighter, you can always take more off the valve stem but to decrease you have to deepen the valve seat into the block making grit to get into the engine, if you know what I mean.
and if you try to take it off the valve seat, it starts to get thin in a hurry.

[samiam44]

Your miss-reading the manual.

The table gives the wear limit for v/g clearance. Note the exhaust valve stem is tapered. If memory is correct, in the v/g replacement section- you ream a v/g with a 5/16 reamer for a perfect fit. Guides are cheap- remove them, put some new ones in.

For the seat- 89 degree's is the included angle between BOTH seats. Not with respect to vavle guide or top. So divide it by 2=0)

Don't think a torque plate would make any difference. If you bore it, just make sure you get it centered and a good straight bore. If you hone it, the least taper and out-of-round possible.

Remember this is a 3600 rpm engine... I had the same problem of not uppping the antee with hot-rodding stuff.

[Quagmire]

Does anyone know what the tolerances on the guides is ? I need to know just what it should be sized at and not the wear limit the manual says. I do have plenty of reamers but I always final size with my Sunnen valve guide hone.

[Quagmire]

I went ahead and made a torque plate for it. After talking to a few builders the general consensus was yes do it. It should help with ring seal. I found a used one on ebay for $4.99. I put 2 pictures in my gallery. Got to get the piston now and try it out.

[sawdustdad]

What is the purpose of the torque plate?