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#11
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You guy's are awesome! I never even gave the drag link a though. I was ready to pull the steering box when I got it into the shop. It's interesting to see the differences and the versatility of these machines compared to what else is out there.
Thanks again Terry |
#12
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With your relief valve problem. You can take them out and manually push them back up. I use a small allen wrench and push the punger up from the bottom of the valve.
AJ
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1980 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]482- Stock 1981 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]582- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch, Spring assist 1979 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]682- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch, Spring Assist, #1 Tiller 1980 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]782- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch 1983 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]982- Stock, Fully Optioned |
#13
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Another update. Last night I finally got the beast to move forward. I hosed everything down a couple of times with penetrating oil (KROIL to be exact) this stuff makes PB Blaster look like water, fired her up and moved the lever forward a little bit and brought the engine up to half throttle. While the pump was building a little pressure I adjusted the carb so it doesn't have to run on full choke any more (I know Sammy Safety would give me a big ticket for this but....) , by the time I turned the screws it started creeping forward, pulled to neutral, hopped on and away we went! I will pick it up this afternoon and as soon as I get it into the shop I will post some pics.
Thanks for all your help, I'm sure I'll have a few more questions soon. Terry |
#14
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As for the steering issue... The weld on one side of the mount for the steering box is broken. When turned to the left it pushes the bracket into position and bumps the remainder of the weld, to the right there is nothing to stop the plate from moving. It won't be the most fun to do, but I think once I get my arm to bend backwards three times I should be able to get a couple of nice beads of weld on it, and the other side just in case and be in decent shape.
Terry |
#15
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TBell,
I don't know what you have in your shop but you might be able to hook the likes of a chain fall on the front of your Cub to lift it and make that weld easier to reach. |
#16
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I have it a work and plan on using the fork lift to get it well up in the air, we have "jack stands" for the boom to make it quite safe to work under it. Just have to remember to remove them before you try to let the mast down and wonder why the h-ll it's not moving. That will make it slightly easier but only slightly.
Terry |
#17
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Photos!
Finally fixed the steering bracket, now to adjust the drag link to really even it out. Thought I would get a few photos up and ask if anyone can post a pic. or link of what the grill looked like?
Heres some shots from all sides All in all I think it's in great shape, all the decals and tags are still in great shape on the motor and for $200.00 I pleased. Terry |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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