Hydro pump leak on 2182

[tinklevision]

Hello.

So after spending way too much time, I finally found the cause of the hydro leak on my tractor, it is from the shaft seal on the rear of the hydro pump.

I have replacement seals (got one for the front also) along with a replacement gasket.
However, I cannot for the life of me figure out how to prize apart the two halves of the casing. All bolts have been removed, but its steadfastly refuses to separate. Any ideas?

Also wondering what I will find once I do manage to take apart.
Am now wondering if I just take this to a repair facility and have them do the work.

Love to hear your thoughts.

[darkminion_17]

You do not have to remove the pump and take it apart to replace those seals that you mention.

[tinklevision]

Really, that is amazing news. although I can't see how I would remove/replace the seals from outside the casing ?

[Ambush]

Many times in the shop, if we had to just re&re a shaft seal, we would carefully drill a small hole in the seal then screw ina wood screw. Grab the wood screw with pliers and lever it out. Run a pencil magnet around inside the clear any debris. Do NOT blow it out with air, that may just blow metal back into the bearing.

[tinklevision]

So thanks as always to the members here, I managed to replace the seals without taking the case apart.

I had taken the pump off, but have now got all is back in place, refilled with fluid, only to find the wheels wont move at all!

What could I have possibly done that has lead me here ? The good news is that finally I don't have a leak, but now it's not working.

I took apart once before, and there was no issue.

[bugeye]

The standard first question is what hydro filter is installed. Automotive filters have check valves which may not allow fluid to pass. I use Cub Cadet filters. There is a list on here for other compatible filters.

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=12

[tinklevision]

Thanks for the response.

I did get the NAPA FIL 1410, which is on that list. Noticed the fan was rubbing against it slightly, assuming it's a tad longer.

Before I realized that replacing the seals was a simple fix, I had the pump on the bench trying to prize apart the casing, to no avail .The only thing I did do was remove the charge pump housing. I made sure to put back the same way as I took off.

[ol'George]

I don't know what hydro you have but if it is a Sundstrand like the older cubs
you could have the charge pump on wrong.
They are made so one can use them with different rotation engines.
The pump can be rotated 180* to change the input rotation.

It will not pump if rotated the wrong way!
Sitting on the seat looking down you will see the charge pump housing with 2 bolts holding it on to the hydro. that "dogbone"(pump housing with seal you changed),
on 1 of those "ears" you will see the it has been ground/machined off.
Did you put that side back to the same side it came off?
That machined ear needs to be on the right side of the tractor.
In other words your right knee as sitting on the operator seat.
if not, just remove the 2 bolts and rotate it, the "O" ring seal should be ok since it is clean and just replaced.
I do need to suggest that the area around the charge pump is clean and blown off of any contamination it might of gotten in reassembly.

Oh I do need to also mention you have 2 choices to do that:
#1: dissemble like you did before.
Or
#2 remove the 2 hyd. line nuts and move the lines away and then remove the 2
fittings in the hydro that the line nuts screwed onto,
then remove the filter, now you can rotate the charge pump.

Now if you didn't put the charge pump back on wrong:
Take your air hose and wrap a shop rag on the nozzle and put a little pressure in the hyd oil fill hole while it is running.
Some times this helps prime the system/pump/filter.
Now you don't want high pressure just as much as one can blow with their lungs ( About #3) max.
Note:
If the pump was installed wrong you normally would be given a reprimand of watching John Deere sales promotional movies in black & white,
but since there is considerable work involved in this redo we will give you a reprieve, just this once

[tinklevision]

Wow, you are a superstar for dropping this info.

I am one of those people where the adage, "a little knowledge is a dangerous thing" is very much applicable.

I am now going to take this and report back.

Again, much appreciated.

[tinklevision]

What about removing the drive shaft and then flipping ? In this scenario would you need to drain ?