1250 with Walbro 62-129 carb. Info please

[Wntsom4]

So I’ve been deep into getting my tractor back up and running.

Been sitting 10 years.

Made the decision to buy a cheap carb off eBay to try yo get it started.

Cranked but found no spark.

Checked all the systems everting showing good
and 12volts found throughout. Took the starter off cleaned posts and grounds. Took of starter solenoid cleaned post and ground, coil removed cleaned post and grounded to head.

New plug,new points and gapped, new condenser put on today… we have spark!!

Still no start. Figured my cheap carb is now my issue. It won’t even pop. Just cracking over only.

Found by searching everything points to a #26 carb is the one that’s recommended.

Mine on the other hand is a Walbro 62-129 that I took off.

Being I have no clue the difference I’m asking here. I read here a lot of problems with them but I’m Looking to see if any other areas to look for or should I go to a more trusted vendor and order a #26??

[R Bedell]

First, I do not know the actual Spec or Serial numbers to your Kohler K301 Engine. I am going to use, per the Cub Cadet Parts Listing, the engine as: K301-47541. That engine rolled out of the Factory with a Kohler Carb: 47-053-08. I don't know what came with your tractor nor the eBay purchase you made. If you get the correct Carb, and is clean, and adjusted properly, your engine will come to life.

[ol'George]

Multiple things need to happen for an engine to run:
----Adequate compression, that includes proper valve action and clearance.
----- spark, at the correct time,
-----fuel and air.
-----unobstructed exhaust (not plugged with walnuts, acorns, mouse chewins' mud dauber clay, etc.) (usually applicable to 2 strokes)

Did you set the points correctly?
did you check to see if the plug sparks while laying on a metal part of the engine while cranking over?
if not, check it.
Now as far as fuel metering= Carburetor.

An engine will run without a carb, it can, and has been proven.
All one has to do is dribble or squirt some fuel into the intake port.
Not carb cleaner, not starting fluid, not hair spray, but fuel.
You will not be able to control the rpm, or get it to run evenly, but it will start and run as long as fuel is provided.
Gives you something to think about instead of "shot gunning" parts till it is fixed, or one runs out of money.

[Billy-O]

What is Walbro 62-129? Maybe a stamped number off the carb choke plate?? Anyway, my Google search shows a Walbro WHG-52 to be the right model asides from #26 and other aftermarkets carbs. I have heard some negative comments about the Walbro, but one of my k301 came with the Walbro and so far so good.

But what Roland says: Correct carb, clean and adjusted properly, the engine will come to life! That is if you have fuel flow, good compression and timed spark. Are you getting fuel into the carb?

[Wntsom4]

Sorry for the missed info

Single owner 1976 Cub Cadet 1250 hydro manual lift
Serial number 2050063U536529


Carb is a Walbro from what I can read 47 J53 06 stamped on the carb.

The Amazon carb is a 1PZ claims to be comparable to #26

1PZ UMK-101 Carburetor Carb for Kohler #26 K241 K301 10hp 12hp Cast Iron Engines Cub Cadet 47-853-23-S (Extra Thick Gasket)



Someone mentioned in the welcome area my build date was Jan 1975 I believe it was. My dad purchased this new so I’m going off what he’s told me over the years.

Was not getting spark before ordered a tune up kit, plug, points and condenser.
Bought a in line spark tester. After the change of these parts I have spark showing. Points set at .20

As far as compression I know I have it as without the plug it’s puffing out the spark hole

Valves I haven’t got to yet or know enough about yet to check. Still learning

And yes was gas in the carb

[Wntsom4]

Tonight I went back through the systems to check clearances

Took off the exhaust to confirm was not plugged.

Checked valves

Went to check the timing for the points.

Turned the motor over by hand. Heard puff of air, thought was coming though the exhaust but, found was coming through the head gasket.

Gasket bad found damage to the head to. No issue with the piston no abnormalities on the cylinder walls.

Ordered new head and gasket Will see what that does once they show up.

Back to sanding down the body

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by Wntsom4

Tonight I went back through the systems to check clearances

Took off the exhaust to confirm was not plugged.

Checked valves

Went to check the timing for the points.

Turned the motor over by hand. Heard puff of air, thought was coming though the exhaust but, found was coming through the head gasket.

Gasket bad found damage to the head to. No issue with the piston no abnormalities on the cylinder walls.

Ordered new head and gasket Will see what that does once they show up.

Back to sanding down the body

You could have resurfaced the head on a surface plate or flat plate glass as described many times here, and saved you a bit of Cash, but your $$$, your choice.
That well could have been your problem and if it was as bad as you said, it needed fixed.
Do remember to re torque the head after a couple of heat cycles, or you will be replacing the new head gasket in the near future.
( that tip is not in the service manual)

[Wntsom4]

There was a hole blown though the top edge by a bolt hole on the head otherwise I would have tried to save it.

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by Wntsom4

There was a hole blown though the top edge by a bolt hole on the head otherwise I would have tried to save it.

Thank you for the reply, that is not the norm, usually they are just a little warped and easily trued.