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#1
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Cub 1641 B&S 16 V-twin top end rebuild
Decided to make this a new thread... and add a bit with progress.
I should have most of the parts tomorrow "monday 5-20" to put back together. Note: I know I could have rebuilt the head. Put new bushing in etc. There are ways to keep the guide in place. Punch marks around bushing into the aluminium, etc, I have even heard of guys using flux core weld and welding it in from bottom or through port. I didn't want to have any of that in my engine so I opted for new heads. Update to my 1641. Okay so I figured out why it felt sluggish. The relief valve lever was stuck and not going down all the way. Got that down and felt much more powerful! I started to run it a bit and cut some grass. All seemed fine until I started to hear a valve tapping. I idled it down and shut it off. Opened the hood and knew right away from the heat off it something was not right. I decided to pull the engine and have a look. Most of the members here will all know what happened as soon as you see pics. For the less experienced guys I will continue because this is really important maintenance if you dont want to have a big issue one day. The previous owner let the grease, mouse house, nest, and whatever else was in here packed the cooling fins to the point that the engine overheated. The overheating caused the valve guide "bushing" to slip. I had put a new pushrod in and adjusted it but when I started cutting grass the first time it got hot again and dropped. The head gasket was bad in a spot as well surprisingly it ran pretty well anyway. I decided to go with new heads. Only one side was really bad but I am doing both. Also a bunch of new gaskets, a new starter " starter works but my luck it would stop half way through summer and as you guys know, its way easier to change now" also installing new coils, and stator for same reason. So, the moral is. CLEAN UNDER YOUR TINS! or spend a lot of money later....
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Cooperino 100, 104,125, 126, 2x129's, 804, 1211, 1641 |
#2
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OMG -----
But then again, I have seen those situations. Good write up. For the less experienced and newbies, keep us updated along the way.
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Roland Bedell CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 Buy: Made in the USA |
#3
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Will do Roland, BTW.. It really ran great with the new pushrod LOL.. Only lasted about an hour but hey. I gave it a shot.
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Cooperino 100, 104,125, 126, 2x129's, 804, 1211, 1641 |
#4
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Heads arrived today. Along with starter and wrong push rods
Bolted the heads down. Will do a little more cleaning while I wait for other parts to arrive
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Cooperino 100, 104,125, 126, 2x129's, 804, 1211, 1641 |
#5
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Okay, call me crazy. But I already do not like the quality of the new stamped rockers vs the original machined ones. The parts I ordered are B&S OEM. Our countries quality is going to crap!
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Cooperino 100, 104,125, 126, 2x129's, 804, 1211, 1641 |
#6
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The "new" stamped ones are fine. The "machined" ones you speak of were first design and superceded long ago with the stamped ones.
I've taken a hammer and tapped bent pushrods straight and used them with no problem. Once the reason they bent in the first place was taken care of. |
#7
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Quote:
I know the stamped ones are fine. But in no way of the same quality. Just cheaper to make
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Cooperino 100, 104,125, 126, 2x129's, 804, 1211, 1641 |
#8
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Okay, fine with me.
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#9
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Sorry man,, But this is what bent rods from a Briggs look like if they enter the cam area. There is no "straitening" these.. And I dont want to own one like this.
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Cooperino 100, 104,125, 126, 2x129's, 804, 1211, 1641 |
#10
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How is the camshaft?
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Up to 530 and counting... I give up updating my profile! |
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