PLEASE PATRONIZE OUR SPONSORS!
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#11
|
||||
|
||||
It is just the 2 points with no gauge. Like a T.
__________________
Steve 1450 QA42A Thrower 44A Mower |
#12
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
Steve 1450 QA42A Thrower 44A Mower |
#13
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Usually shops will only buy genuine Kohler parts.... Genuine Kohler is overpriced. Quote:
Quote:
Why is a telescoping gauge not accurate? Because to use it, you set it down in the bore. Then let it expand. Well, how do you know you have it completely square in the bore? I know how to use them.... rock them around, yadda, yadda.... but without a gauge on it you can look at, you could wedge it in a little too much, or not rock it enough and make the setting inaccurate. Then, you take it out, and use another tool to read that tool. So, there is another possibility for err. With a bore gauge with a dial on it, you can see what the tool is reading directly. But, keep in mind, with a bore gauge, it has to be calibrated to something... or it doesn't read anything. I had a set of gauge blocks made for each stock bore size of all the Kohlers. Then I can zero the gauge to what the gauge block is and read the actual size of the bore. (The gauge blocks are stamped with their actual size, which is close to the stock bore.) Bore gauges are for measuring the bore. But I don't use them for checking piston fit. I want to feel how tight the clearance is. If you use two tools, and do math to get fit, what if a tool is out of calibration? What if a tool is cheap and inaccurate? Besides, those tools are expensive, and you have no need to own them for this job. A set of ribbon gauges are cheap, and completely accurate. I have all those tools, and still use the ribbon method. I can actually feel the fit and know if I like it or not. Quote:
I'm going to make another post to explain the procedure for checking fit with a feeler gauge. This post is pretty long already. |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
Checking piston to bore fit with a feeler (ribbon) gauge
Checking piston to bore fit with a feeler (ribbon) gauge
Set the block on the bench. Take the piston and insert the wrist pin. You don't need to worry about putting the clips on it, but I would at least install one clip, that way you can push the wrist pin in and let it hit the clip. Get your ribbon gauge, (feeler gauge if you don't have ribbons). If you are using a feeler gauge, take the book of them apart, and pull out all the sizes between .003" and about .007". Lay them out in order. Turn the piston upside down, and hold it by the wrist pin. You can lay the block on it's side for this if you want, but I prefer to leave it upright. Advantage to laying it on it's side, is if you drop the piston on accident, you don't break it. I do mine on a work bench, so they only fall to the bench. No harm done. Ok... so you are holding the piston in opposite hand you prefer. (I hold it with my left hand because I'm right handed.) Hold the piston over the bore and slide it in the top (upside down) and in to the last ring groove. Leave the last groove sticking out. Now, grab the smallest gauge you have out. Hold it to the side of the piston, just slightly cocked away from the piston at the top, but the tip of the gauge at about the ring groove. Put the gauge at a right angle from the wrist pin. So if you are holding the wrist pin with the pin going from 9 to 3 o'clock, hold the gauge at either the 12 o'clock, or 6 o'clock position. Does not matter which. Now, slide the piston and gauge into the bore. Now, the ribbon gauge is flat, so you will have to help it get started as it bends to conform to the arc of the bore. Once it starts, it should go in. (I put a little engine oil on the gauge and cylinder wall. I mean, just a little bit.) You should be able to slide the piston and gauge together all the way to the bottom with no resistance at all. (Because a .003" ribbon should not be tight at all.) Do this procedure over using the next size up ribbon until you find one that makes the piston tight. Go back one ribbon in size. Put it back in with the piston. It should slide with some resistance. You should not have to force it hard, but if you let go, it should hold position in the bore. (Or at least try to hold position, mostly because you are bowing the ribbon in an arc to fit the bore.) Now, repeat the procedure in by rotating the piston in the bore. I will explain that better. Keep the block stationary on the bench. If the first time you did the procedure, the wrist pin was at 9/3 position, and the ribbon at 12. Then rotate the piston and ribbon so that the ribbon is now at 3 o'clock the wrist pin is a 12/6. Then do it again, 1/4 turn each time. Do it no less than 4 positions, but more if you like. MAKE SURE, that one of the positions you choose is the standard position for the piston when installed. Slide the piston and gauge together all the way to the bottom of the bore each time. This checks for any tight spots on the cylinder, or deformations. Usually, after boring, you won't find any. More over, this will confirm that the shop used a rigid hone to fit it, and not a flex hone. If you find a tight spot, the shop did not fit it using the proper tools, or the block got damaged between boring/ fit and you checking it. When I build a Kohler, my target skirt clearance is .005" +/- .001". I don't like to see any tighter than .0045/.005". I will accept up to about .007" before I'm calling the shop. But I really like to see .005". If you can find ribbon gauges in .0005" increments, buy those. I have about 10 or 15 ribbon gauges between about .002" and .010". I don't remember how many.... but I know where I keep them. On how tight of fit it should be by feel.... it's just a "feel" you acquire over time and experience. You learn what a "slight drag" feels like after you do it a few hundred times. I sell rebuilt engines..... Just saying. You guys can save yourselves the trouble and let me do all the hard work. Buy a short block and you can put the parts on the outside and get a warm and fuzzy feeling like you are a real mechanic. You will be happy. Your engine will last a long time, and I will be happy with money in my hand and another happy customer. |
#15
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Good info in this thread as this is one of the many important measurements that really matter when putting one back together.
__________________
(2) Original, 100, 102, 124, 73, 800, #1 and #2 cart, brinly plows, disk, IH184, IH244, 1948 F Cub |
#16
|
||||
|
||||
Good write up Jon. If more guys would use ribbon gauges instead of snap gauges/micrometers, they'd see a lot better results from their engine "rebuild."
__________________
149, 2072, Original, 1772, 1782, #1 cart, Parker 48" sweeper, |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
Great post Jonathan.
Thanks for taking the time to do that. |
#18
|
||||
|
||||
Nice write up.
You are making too much work out of operating a telescoping gauge. You are close to doing it right but there is no monkeying around with it in the hole. Set the tension on it when it’s at an angle, rock it to the other side while hanging on to just the knob on the end. It will find the largest size on its own. If you hang on to just the end, you can’t make it be anywhere other than the largest part of the bore. Not saying bore guage isn’t better. Just trying to make it easier.
__________________
Terry O,100,72,102,123,104,124,105 125,129,149,1200,982 (2)2182s w/60in Habans 3225 |
#19
|
||||
|
||||
Thanks for the great explanation Johnathon. I have ordered a few ribbon gauges and will put this to the test. I did use my feeler gauges and they seem a little clumsy being so short. Thanks again.
__________________
Steve 1450 QA42A Thrower 44A Mower |
#20
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
I believe the guy bored it out a little larger than optimum but now that it's bored .030+ I guess I'll have to live with that and keep my eye out for another engine or block for the future. I have the engine back together and in the 1450. It's sounding pretty good so we'll see how she goes. Now on to the other issues with cracked sheet metal and air cleaner housing but that will be another post.
__________________
Steve 1450 QA42A Thrower 44A Mower |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
This website and forum are not affiliated with or sponsored by MTD Products Inc, which owns the CUB CADET trademarks. It is not an official MTD Products Inc, website, and MTD Products Inc, is not responsible for any of its content. The official MTD Products Inc, website can be found at: http://www.mtdproducts.com. The information and opinions expressed on this website are the responsibility of the website's owner and/or it's members, and do not represent the opinions of MTD Products Inc. IH, INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER are registered trademark of CNH America LLC
All material, images, and graphics from this site are the property of www.onlycubcadets.net. Any unauthorized use, reproductions, or duplications are prohibited unless solely expressed in writing.
Cub Cadet, Cub, Cadet, IH, MTD, Parts, Tractors, Tractor, International Harvester, Lawn, Garden, Lawn Mower, Kohler, garden tractor equipment, lawn garden tractors, antique garden tractors, garden tractor, PTO, parts, online, Original, 70, 71, 72, 73, 76, SO76, 80, 81, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 182, 282, 382, 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 805, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1015, 1100, 1105, 1110, 1200, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1605, 1606, 1610, 1615, 1620, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1912, 1914.