Only Cub Cadets

PLEASE PATRONIZE OUR SPONSORS!

CC Speciaalties R. F. Houtz and Sons

Patton Acres IH Cub Cadet Parts

Cub Cadet Parts & Service


If you would like to help maintain this site & enhance it, feel free to donate whatever amount you would like to!




Attention Folks we have a new owner!
Greg Rozar AKA- CubDieselFan


Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > IH Cub Cadet Tractors (GT)

Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #11  
Old 06-10-2019, 08:59 PM
three4rd three4rd is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: PA
Posts: 387
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by athomas View Post
No need to split the tractor on a 129 to change hydro unit, unbolt trans linkage, knock the roll pins out of the brake levers,put a pan under it remove filter and pick-up tube let it drain a while and pull the hydro out through the tunnel !easy peasy ! but first I'd undo the drive shaft coupling and turn the hydro by hand to verify that's where it's coming from . You can pull the hydro pump that way in about a half hour ,you'll lose some fluid but if the drain pan is clean run it through a paint strainer and reuse it if it's new !
I had the driveshaft completely off before when I replaced the motor - never had the pin out though at the pump. I replaced the flexible disc coupling too. Didn't take the pin(s) out of any brake linkages either - rather I found a place to disconnect them somewhere else (would have to refer back to my pictures) so as to avoid hammering out a pin. In other words....I cheat...... Nice to know separation would not be necessary. I don't know...have to think about all this. I'd be more than content to let someone else tackle it this time since I so swamped with other things. Problem is..I need that 129 to run NOW....getting tired of trying to keep a few areas mowed (not even on my property...another long and sort of bizarre story) with just a weedwacker. So I was so pleased to finally be ready to go.

I like the idea of a video first before proceeding further unless it can be confirmed by my descriptions so far that indeed the hydro needs to be replaced and/or repaired. Well...repaired is likely a bit beyond my current experience level...crap...it'd probably be on my work bench for another 3 months.

Frank...I should have added that the noise occurs with the wheels on or off the floor - tried it both ways. One time almost started without any noise. I really question what's going on right inside the hydro where the trunnion is. Can something have disconnected in there? I moved it manually and can see that the shaft is turning on the opposite side, for whatever that's worth.

Thomas...been turning it by hand several times already - both at the front pulley and also right at the disc coupling...can hear these clicking noises as it rotates slowly and can see the trunnion (shaft tron?) sort of jerking with the shaft rotation.

I noticed also that I can pull on that trunnion shaft - where it goes into the hydro - and it really seems to pull in and out freely. Were it not for the rest of the linkages holding it all together I actually wonder if it'd pull right out of the housing? Probably not I suppose.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 06-10-2019, 09:18 PM
athomas's Avatar
athomas athomas is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: New Florence, PA
Posts: 540
Default

Sounds like the hydro might be toast !
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 06-10-2019, 09:25 PM
cooperino's Avatar
cooperino cooperino is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: New York
Posts: 3,065
Default

Maybe dumb thought. If it were me. I would disconnect the shaft and try to start the engine. The last thing worked on was the engine. A bearing noise or other engine noise could easily sound like its coming from somewhere else. If nothing you could rule out any kind of engine issue by doing this.

Not sure who rebuilt your engine but it would not be the first time someone reassembled an engine out of spec.

Just a thought. I hope its something more simple than your thinking.
__________________
Cooperino 100, 104,125, 126, 2x129's, 804, 1211, 1641
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 06-10-2019, 09:40 PM
three4rd three4rd is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: PA
Posts: 387
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cooperino View Post
Maybe dumb thought. If it were me. I would disconnect the shaft and try to start the engine. The last thing worked on was the engine. A bearing noise or other engine noise could easily sound like its coming from somewhere else. If nothing you could rule out any kind of engine issue by doing this.

Not sure who rebuilt your engine but it would not be the first time someone reassembled an engine out of spec.

Just a thought. I hope its something more simple than your thinking.
Coop....you must have been reading my mind also. This occurred to me as well. Is there enough room without actually moving the engine front to disconnect and get the shaft out of the way? When I took it off before I had already loosened the 4 oil pan bolts and shifted the engine slightly forward. Makes sense to use process of elimination, i.e. making sure the engine is ok. If it's not, that's on (or should be anyway), the builder...not me. The rebuilder is a lawn tractor dealer near me - guy has been working on these his whole life and so should know what he's doing. Certainly seems highly knowledgeable anyway.

I should also have added that the first time I started the engine, I was able to go forward and back with the tractor - no problem from the trans at all short of creeping forward when in N.

Thanks for the advice...I really can use as much help as possible on this one Thing is, though, if it is indeed an engine issue, why do I hear clicking noises that definitely seem to be coming from the trans when manually rotating the engine at the disc coupling?
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 06-10-2019, 09:47 PM
three4rd three4rd is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: PA
Posts: 387
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by athomas View Post
Sounds like the hydro might be toast !
I didn't need to hear that....but......unfortunately you might be right.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 06-10-2019, 10:22 PM
ol'George's Avatar
ol'George ol'George is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: MI
Posts: 6,610
Default

ok my turn.
Did your hydro shift/control linkage somehow fall off the hydro and you are trying to start it in gear so to speak?
Those hydros will moan and get jerky if they are not in neutral position when starting.

They will also sound grindy.( is that a word?)
Move your hand control linkage and see if it is working the linkage on the hydro.
Don't get all discouraged,it ain't the end of the world and you are learning more than you ever believed you would!
Those hydros are dam near bullet proof.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 06-10-2019, 10:33 PM
three4rd three4rd is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: PA
Posts: 387
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ol'George View Post
ok my turn.
Did your hydro shift/control linkage somehow fall off the hydro and you are trying to start it in gear so to speak?
Those hydros will moan and get jerky if they are not in neutral position when starting.

They will also sound grindy.( is that a word?)
Move your hand control linkage and see if it is working the linkage on the hydro.
Don't get all discouraged,it ain't the end of the world and you are learning more than you ever believed you would!
Those hydros are dam near bullet proof.
LOL...was expecting you'd show up.

Wait...if the linkage "fell off the hydro"...where would it be? I mean, everything is in place..or are you referring to a disconnection internally somewhere? The shift lever (on the dash) is working the rest of the mechanism as it should. That being said, however, could it be that inside the hydro something changed so that indeed it's always 'in gear' at this point? There was less of the grinding (or whatever) noise if I didn't depress the brake pedal
quite as much, and then more of it when pressing all the way.

Just now I turned the motor by hand again and don't hear anything unusual on either end. Weird. Guess I'll try it again tomorrow morning and see what happens. I don't want to keep doing this though for fear of somehow damaging the engine. Got that right about learning more than I ever would have expected. I think I learned more in the past 2 years than in the entire 40+ years I've had the tractor.

Assuming this unusual amount of turning the motor manually doesn't do any harm? I always turn in the correct direction of rotation.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 06-10-2019, 10:36 PM
three4rd three4rd is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: PA
Posts: 387
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ol'George View Post
ok my turn.

Those hydros are dam near bullet proof.
That's almost a direct quote that J-mech said to me awhile back when he was still around here, after I mentioned being cautious about putting in a new engine only to then have possible issues with the transmission. He said it was unlikely to happen, so I was encouraged by that and pursued getting another engine.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 06-10-2019, 11:00 PM
ol'George's Avatar
ol'George ol'George is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: MI
Posts: 6,610
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by three4rd View Post
LOL...was expecting you'd show up.

Wait...if the linkage "fell off the hydro"...where would it be? I mean, everything is in place..or are you referring to a disconnection internally somewhere? The shift lever (on the dash) is working the rest of the mechanism as it should. That being said, however, could it be that inside the hydro something changed so that indeed it's always 'in gear' at this point? There was less of the grinding (or whatever) noise if I didn't depress the brake pedal
quite as much, and then more of it when pressing all the way.

Just now I turned the motor by hand again and don't hear anything unusual on either end. Weird. Guess I'll try it again tomorrow morning and see what happens. I don't want to keep doing this though for fear of somehow damaging the engine. Got that right about learning more than I ever would have expected. I think I learned more in the past 2 years than in the entire 40+ years I've had the tractor.

Assuming this unusual amount of turning the motor manually doesn't do any harm? I always turn in the correct direction of rotation.
FWIW, As far as rotation, they are built for many applications and some are reverse rotation,
so no harm turning the other way.
The trunion linkage inside the hydro, is retained by a coiled pin in the swash plate.
I've seen them worn a tiny bit in the swash plate hole but never heard of one coming totally out of the hydro because of a broken coiled pin.
Those hydro's are avail used and usually about $100 if you actually have a bad one.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 06-10-2019, 11:05 PM
sawdustdad's Avatar
sawdustdad sawdustdad is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 2,627
Default

Sorry if this is obvious, but you did put oil in the engine, right? After the rebuild?

Coop is right, the hydro is pretty much bullet proof. You only pushed it a short distance, so not likely there is anything wrong with the hydro.

It sounds to me like your hydro is not in neutral while trying to start. It makes an awful squeal when you do this. Move the speed lever back and forth slowly while cranking the engine. At some point in the lever travel, you'll lose the squeal and the hydro will be in neutral. You may need to bypass the brake pedal safety switch. When the brake pedal is down, and the neutral is not properly adjusted, the tractor will try to move forward or backward while cranking, and will make a lot of noise.

I'm betting once you get it started, find neutral with the speed lever, the noise will go away.
__________________
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:29 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.

Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

This website and forum are not affiliated with or sponsored by MTD Products Inc, which owns the CUB CADET trademarks. It is not an official MTD Products Inc, website, and MTD Products Inc, is not responsible for any of its content. The official MTD Products Inc, website can be found at: http://www.mtdproducts.com. The information and opinions expressed on this website are the responsibility of the website's owner and/or it's members, and do not represent the opinions of MTD Products Inc. IH, INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER are registered trademark of CNH America LLC

All material, images, and graphics from this site are the property of www.onlycubcadets.net. Any unauthorized use, reproductions, or duplications are prohibited unless solely expressed in writing.

Cub Cadet, Cub, Cadet, IH, MTD, Parts, Tractors, Tractor, International Harvester, Lawn, Garden, Lawn Mower, Kohler, garden tractor equipment, lawn garden tractors, antique garden tractors, garden tractor, PTO, parts, online, Original, 70, 71, 72, 73, 76, SO76, 80, 81, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 182, 282, 382, 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 805, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1015, 1100, 1105, 1110, 1200, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1605, 1606, 1610, 1615, 1620, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1912, 1914.