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  #51  
Old 02-18-2021, 05:06 PM
Ambush Ambush is offline
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Forgot the pic:
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  #52  
Old 02-18-2021, 05:07 PM
guido guido is offline
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Alan
Basket Cases: 129, 1450 sold, 1650
125: 48" Mower Deck, Windbreaker Cab
127: 3 turn steering gear, Spring Assist, Sleeve Hitch, 48" Mower Deck, Dozer Blade
147: 3 turn steering gear, Spring Assist, QA36a w/Xtreme Motorworks Wings
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  #53  
Old 02-18-2021, 10:44 PM
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sawdustdad sawdustdad is offline
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Are you using the square tubing frame for your reservoir?
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123, 72, 108, a Tandem 109, 128, 129, 129, "148", 149, 1000, 1450, 1450, 1650; a bunch of mower decks and snow blades, QA42A Snow thrower, #1 Tiller w/exts, #1 cart; a Ford 2000 and a Kubota BX23 with all the toys--Frank
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  #54  
Old 02-18-2021, 11:01 PM
Ambush Ambush is offline
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^^^ Yes, the 4X4" under frame tube and the 2X4" masts are an integrated tank.
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  #55  
Old 02-19-2021, 12:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ambush View Post
^^^ Yes, the 4X4" under frame tube and the 2X4" masts are an integrated tank.
Excellent!
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123, 72, 108, a Tandem 109, 128, 129, 129, "148", 149, 1000, 1450, 1450, 1650; a bunch of mower decks and snow blades, QA42A Snow thrower, #1 Tiller w/exts, #1 cart; a Ford 2000 and a Kubota BX23 with all the toys--Frank
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  #56  
Old 03-03-2021, 07:16 PM
Ambush Ambush is offline
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While I hurry up and wait on the engine refurbish, I figured now's a good time to start on the heel/toe forward/reverse.

I machined a pair of bushings from UHMW with a 1" OD and 1/2" ID to mount the cross shaft. Those will fit in the bosses that the deck lift rocker shaft went through. A collar on each inboard end will keep the shaft from side shifting. Two more got welded to either side of the link lever. Then two ball joints to complete the link up to the trans lever.

I'll find a couple pedals from a small wrecked car for my heel/toe lever.

Once I have the engine together and out of the way, I'll start on the bucket.
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  #57  
Old 03-03-2021, 11:23 PM
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sawdustdad sawdustdad is offline
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I did the foot control thing on my grader, but wish I had been able to do a spring return to neutral.

I think you may find, as I have, that having the control lever still in the mix makes the foot control a bit clumsy (since you are pushing that hand lever around, too). I've considered disconnecting it but without a spring return to neutral, you need the resistance in the hand lever to keep the hydro from running away.

Following to see how it works out for you. Any advice would be welcomed!

What was wrong with the engine?
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123, 72, 108, a Tandem 109, 128, 129, 129, "148", 149, 1000, 1450, 1450, 1650; a bunch of mower decks and snow blades, QA42A Snow thrower, #1 Tiller w/exts, #1 cart; a Ford 2000 and a Kubota BX23 with all the toys--Frank
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  #58  
Old 03-03-2021, 11:40 PM
Ambush Ambush is offline
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Many hydrostats have the option for a centering spring on the swash trunnion shaft. The problem with a return spring is you have to hold it at the speed you want. Not handy for tilling or jobs where you want a steady sustained speed. For a FEL it may be handy. The resistance on mine is at the friction bushing at the bottom of the shaft. The hand lever offers none.

The engine had a bad noise which I originally assumed was the PTO or driveline. It wasn't.
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  #59  
Old 03-05-2021, 08:30 PM
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sawdustdad sawdustdad is offline
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You're right, it's actually the friction point on the speed control, not the lever itself. I was just attributing the friction to that entire assembly. Though, to be honest, the lever does have a finite (though small) amount of inertia you need to move around with the foot control if it's still hooked up.

My Kubota has a hydro pedal, front/reverse, spring loaded to neutral. I don't find it any problem to adjust or hold speed. You can always reduce throttle a bit if you need a constant speed with the pedal all the way forward, for example. Since most of my use of the Kubota is with the FEL (don't keep the mower deck on it much) it's a non issue. I'm basically pedal to the metal all the time with it, LOL.

Details on the engine problem...??
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123, 72, 108, a Tandem 109, 128, 129, 129, "148", 149, 1000, 1450, 1450, 1650; a bunch of mower decks and snow blades, QA42A Snow thrower, #1 Tiller w/exts, #1 cart; a Ford 2000 and a Kubota BX23 with all the toys--Frank
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  #60  
Old 03-05-2021, 08:37 PM
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I just bent a piece of 5/8 round stock. Still need to weld a couple small plates to each end. Might mimic the cub cadet clutch pedal, I think I have a couple extra rubber pads..
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123, 72, 108, a Tandem 109, 128, 129, 129, "148", 149, 1000, 1450, 1450, 1650; a bunch of mower decks and snow blades, QA42A Snow thrower, #1 Tiller w/exts, #1 cart; a Ford 2000 and a Kubota BX23 with all the toys--Frank
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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