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  #11  
Old 07-25-2021, 08:25 PM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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Originally Posted by EternalArianne View Post
Ok I gave everything a good looking over, the exhaust looks clean, as well as everything else. I think the guy stored it well, it’s just gas sitting destroyed the fuel lines and primer bulb. I did notice that even though I replaced the fuel lines, there is a tiny leak around where the line exits the tank. Could that small suction of air around there cause it to not crank? Is there a good way to seal that; I thought the hose was supposed to be snug and seal it but I guess not?
Well the replacement lines most times are not of the Neoprene/rubber oem type, they are usually a nylon/plastic stuff and it always leaks especially in cooler temps.
You are saying "cranks" ??? crank is the process of turning the crankshaft with a physically means like a starter motor, rope, hand crank or other mechanical means.
Possibly you mean firing up or/and running under it's own power.??

Sucking air/leaking around the fuel exit/entry lines has nothing to do with running under it's own power, the tanks are usually vented in the cap
Is the little screen plugged with debris/hair/fuzz in the carb?---most are.
it is just pushed in and easily picked out/cleaned while inspecting the fuel pump leaf gasket and fuel metering diaphragms
A "kit" of those 2 diaphragms/gaskets and a prime bulb are less than $8.00 on evil pray.
Also loose the starting fluid, you don't want to use that stuff especially on a two smoke engine as it provides no lube to the engine.
a splash of premix fuel does well and lubricates moving things properly.
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  #12  
Old 07-25-2021, 08:47 PM
EternalArianne EternalArianne is offline
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Apologies, it will “crank” if I pull the cord, but it will not turn over and start running on its own. Its a brand new carb but I have no idea if it needs adjusting at all. All the videos I find online are for adjusting ones that are already running.

I feel like it can run because when I first replaced the fuel lines and primer bulb it turned over and almost cranked ONCE. But I’ve never been able to get it to turn over since then.
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  #13  
Old 07-25-2021, 09:05 PM
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Apologies, it will “crank” if I pull the cord, but it will not turn over and start running on its own. Its a brand new carb but I have no idea if it needs adjusting at all. All the videos I find online are for adjusting ones that are already running.

I feel like it can run because when I first replaced the fuel lines and primer bulb it turned over and almost cranked ONCE. But I’ve never been able to get it to turn over since then.
if it is not turning over, your rope is broke or the clutch dog/(S) are not engaging.
If you are saying it is not running under it's own power, with a new carb, buy it is cranking over when you pull the rope.
Then it at least should try to run a little bit when squirting/ dribbling fuel mixture in the carb throat.
An engine will run without a carb, granted you will have to dribble fuel into the port and cannot control the rpm's, but it will run.
can you feel good compression when pulling the starter rope?
Sometimes some unknowing individual puts straight gasoline into a 2 smoke engine and runs it till it ruins the cylinder and rings and just quits.
Have you tried a new plug?
Does the old plug come out dry? wet? fouled?
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  #14  
Old 07-26-2021, 07:04 AM
EternalArianne EternalArianne is offline
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I did install a new plug but the old one didn’t look too Bad, it was a bit black around the end that goes into the cylinder but I’ve seen worse.

Pull cord feels good as well, not loose or too hard to pull either.

I haven’t tried putting fuel directly into intake, I need to find something small enough to squirt it down in there.
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  #15  
Old 07-26-2021, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by EternalArianne View Post
Apologies, it will “crank” if I pull the cord, but it will not turn over and start running on its own. Its a brand new carb but I have no idea if it needs adjusting at all. All the videos I find online are for adjusting ones that are already running.

I feel like it can run because when I first replaced the fuel lines and primer bulb it turned over and almost cranked ONCE. But I’ve never been able to get it to turn over since then.
I still think you are flooded....you almost crank once you say. Possibly you are set too rich. Lean out the carb and avoid using the choke and don't use the primer bulb! I have several two strokes and almost never use the bulb.

Other than that... Others have said maybe you are out of time... Did you pop the flywheel and check the key and keyway? The tiniest dent in the key can throw off timing enough not to start/run.
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  #16  
Old 07-26-2021, 10:14 AM
EternalArianne EternalArianne is offline
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This trimmer doesn’t have the usual 1,2,3 choke stages, only “cold start” and “warm start”. You crank it on cold start then once it’s running you squeeze the trigger it switches to warm start mode. I looked at the choke valve in both modes and it’s only like 1mm difference between the two positions. I can’t see a way to adjust it either, the throttle adjustment screw doesn’t seem to make a difference.

There are high and low adjustment screws but those should be set correctly from the factory, correct? What would be the best way to adjust it?
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  #17  
Old 07-26-2021, 02:36 PM
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You would go by the initial settings on the high/low settings whatever they are.
then when warmed up,do a fine adjust of hi speed jet then low idle mixture, then speed of idle.
Then maybe do it again to tweak it after a usage or two.
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  #18  
Old 07-26-2021, 03:49 PM
EternalArianne EternalArianne is offline
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That’s assuming I can get it running at all lol. I’ll keep messing with it and try all of your suggestions. If it will ever stop raining and being muggy as h*ll outside…
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  #19  
Old 07-28-2021, 08:03 AM
EternalArianne EternalArianne is offline
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Ok so i put the old carb back on there since that’s the one it almost turned over with. No priming or choke, it fired up first pull but would only stay running with the trigger pulled. Once I let go it shuts off. So I’m making progress!
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  #20  
Old 07-28-2021, 09:07 AM
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Ok lets step back a bit.
Did you either clean or replace the little filter hanging on the fuel line in the tank?
That has to be clean or no, or a restricted, fuel flow will occur.
Lets try an easy trick.
Take what ever "tool" that fits the hi/low adjustment screws ( some are hex, slotted, "D" shaped and others to make them tamper proof) and seat them gently COUNTING the turns and write it down, for the hi speed and lo speed.
Usually along the screws it is identified HI and LO on the casting.
Then remove them carefully noting the spring, washer and "O" ring.
the "O" ring will either come out on the screw or remain in the carb body.
if remaining in the carb, remove it and put it on the needle screw.
Note: the hi, and lo needles are different, usually the hi screws are longer but not always so keep them separate and noted.
Then give a gentle shot of air into the screw holes.
this might dislodge any debris that might be in there.
Return the screws to their respective holes and set the adjustments as you noted before removing them
Crank it with the rope to see if it will fire up and run.
if it stalls when you let off the throttle try enriching the lo speed needle 1/4
(CCW) turn, then try again,--possibly adjust the idle rpm's with the screw that holds the butterfly open a bit.
Hopefully you can get it to purr like a kitten, adjusting the screws a bit at a time.
The Carb might need a kit if the diaphragm's are bad.
You could try your new carb also, or "borrow" gaskets/diaphragms from it.
Chi--naaaa replacements are a crap shoot, some work right out of the box others are junk, and some of the parts do not interchange with the OEM carb
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