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#11
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Quote:
You are saying "cranks" ??? crank is the process of turning the crankshaft with a physically means like a starter motor, rope, hand crank or other mechanical means. Possibly you mean firing up or/and running under it's own power.?? Sucking air/leaking around the fuel exit/entry lines has nothing to do with running under it's own power, the tanks are usually vented in the cap Is the little screen plugged with debris/hair/fuzz in the carb?---most are. it is just pushed in and easily picked out/cleaned while inspecting the fuel pump leaf gasket and fuel metering diaphragms A "kit" of those 2 diaphragms/gaskets and a prime bulb are less than $8.00 on evil pray. Also loose the starting fluid, you don't want to use that stuff especially on a two smoke engine as it provides no lube to the engine. a splash of premix fuel does well and lubricates moving things properly. |
#12
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Apologies, it will “crank” if I pull the cord, but it will not turn over and start running on its own. Its a brand new carb but I have no idea if it needs adjusting at all. All the videos I find online are for adjusting ones that are already running.
I feel like it can run because when I first replaced the fuel lines and primer bulb it turned over and almost cranked ONCE. But I’ve never been able to get it to turn over since then. |
#13
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If you are saying it is not running under it's own power, with a new carb, buy it is cranking over when you pull the rope. Then it at least should try to run a little bit when squirting/ dribbling fuel mixture in the carb throat. An engine will run without a carb, granted you will have to dribble fuel into the port and cannot control the rpm's, but it will run. can you feel good compression when pulling the starter rope? Sometimes some unknowing individual puts straight gasoline into a 2 smoke engine and runs it till it ruins the cylinder and rings and just quits. Have you tried a new plug? Does the old plug come out dry? wet? fouled? |
#14
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I did install a new plug but the old one didn’t look too Bad, it was a bit black around the end that goes into the cylinder but I’ve seen worse.
Pull cord feels good as well, not loose or too hard to pull either. I haven’t tried putting fuel directly into intake, I need to find something small enough to squirt it down in there. |
#15
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Other than that... Others have said maybe you are out of time... Did you pop the flywheel and check the key and keyway? The tiniest dent in the key can throw off timing enough not to start/run.
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Two 125's and a 124 all with 42" decks Plow blade #2 Cart QA36 snowthower |
#16
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This trimmer doesn’t have the usual 1,2,3 choke stages, only “cold start” and “warm start”. You crank it on cold start then once it’s running you squeeze the trigger it switches to warm start mode. I looked at the choke valve in both modes and it’s only like 1mm difference between the two positions. I can’t see a way to adjust it either, the throttle adjustment screw doesn’t seem to make a difference.
There are high and low adjustment screws but those should be set correctly from the factory, correct? What would be the best way to adjust it? |
#17
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You would go by the initial settings on the high/low settings whatever they are.
then when warmed up,do a fine adjust of hi speed jet then low idle mixture, then speed of idle. Then maybe do it again to tweak it after a usage or two. |
#18
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That’s assuming I can get it running at all lol. I’ll keep messing with it and try all of your suggestions. If it will ever stop raining and being muggy as h*ll outside…
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#19
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Ok so i put the old carb back on there since that’s the one it almost turned over with. No priming or choke, it fired up first pull but would only stay running with the trigger pulled. Once I let go it shuts off. So I’m making progress!
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#20
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Ok lets step back a bit.
Did you either clean or replace the little filter hanging on the fuel line in the tank? That has to be clean or no, or a restricted, fuel flow will occur. Lets try an easy trick. Take what ever "tool" that fits the hi/low adjustment screws ( some are hex, slotted, "D" shaped and others to make them tamper proof) and seat them gently COUNTING the turns and write it down, for the hi speed and lo speed. Usually along the screws it is identified HI and LO on the casting. Then remove them carefully noting the spring, washer and "O" ring. the "O" ring will either come out on the screw or remain in the carb body. if remaining in the carb, remove it and put it on the needle screw. Note: the hi, and lo needles are different, usually the hi screws are longer but not always so keep them separate and noted. Then give a gentle shot of air into the screw holes. this might dislodge any debris that might be in there. Return the screws to their respective holes and set the adjustments as you noted before removing them Crank it with the rope to see if it will fire up and run. if it stalls when you let off the throttle try enriching the lo speed needle 1/4 (CCW) turn, then try again,--possibly adjust the idle rpm's with the screw that holds the butterfly open a bit. Hopefully you can get it to purr like a kitten, adjusting the screws a bit at a time. The Carb might need a kit if the diaphragm's are bad. You could try your new carb also, or "borrow" gaskets/diaphragms from it. Chi--naaaa replacements are a crap shoot, some work right out of the box others are junk, and some of the parts do not interchange with the OEM carb |
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