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  #11  
Old 06-11-2013, 08:28 PM
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jimbob200521 jimbob200521 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Mac View Post
Take the old bearing, press the insert out and then take the bearing to a bearing store and find a replacement.
Too late; already ordered the whole thing :P
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  #12  
Old 06-12-2013, 01:13 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Originally Posted by jimbob200521 View Post
Too late; already ordered the whole thing :P
Well, at least you know they'll be right......
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  #13  
Old 06-12-2013, 04:41 AM
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jimbob200521 jimbob200521 is offline
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Well, at least you know they'll be right......
Right. More of a piece of mind thing. This way I when I put everything back together, I won't have to wonder if I should have spent the extra money to get the whole part instead of just messing with the bearing. Everything is original so I'm sure it couldn't hurt
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  #14  
Old 06-12-2013, 11:04 AM
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Gaden Gaden is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbob200521 View Post
Right. More of a piece of mind thing. This way I when I put everything back together, I won't have to wonder if I should have spent the extra money to get the whole part instead of just messing with the bearing. Everything is original so I'm sure it couldn't hurt
I've always had the opinion that "It's better to be glad you did than to wish you had".
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  #15  
Old 06-16-2013, 08:23 AM
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Woo hoo! Parts came in early, arrived Friday when I was expecting/told Monday. But hey, I'm not gonna complain

I get up early yesterday and once the rain cleared out, started work. Hope y'all enjoy the pics and thanks for the help!

Hood and side panels off the ol' girl

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Got the gas tank off, wire harness unhooked, choke and throttle disconnected, and everything freed up.

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Nothing left to do but unbolt the engine and slide her forward (during which I learned a valuable less; you need to remove the oil drain plug to slide the engine far enough forward to get the drive shaft out. That leads to my second lesson; low-ash SAE30 Cub Cadet oil is about $6.00/qt at the local parts store if you make it before they close at noon )

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Anyway, couple pics of the bad parts in the tractor, then a couple of them side by side. Yeah, they were toast.

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  #16  
Old 06-16-2013, 08:24 AM
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From then on out, we re-installed everything and the time came to fire it up - turned the key, leaned on the choke a bit heavy the first time and bam, fired right up. That leads to the 3rd mistake of the day, and one that required we tare everything back down. We put the two clutch plates that are held on with spiral pins on in the wrong order. We figured this out when our clutch had zero pressure and wouldn't engage. Oh well, cracked open another couple beers and got back to work. Once things were on in the right order, she took right off. My partner for the last couple hours of work taking her for a test drive.

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So what's next? Get the other Cub out, cruise, and take pics, of course!

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^^^^Side note; the truck in the back ground was pulled there as a test by the 1050; after a little wheel spin, she pulled it like it wasn't even there, I was thoroughly impressed!!
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  #17  
Old 06-16-2013, 08:24 AM
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Cleaned up the engine bay a bit while things were apart, not show room quality but much, much better than the dirt, grease, and oil covered machine it was.

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Well, that's was my Saturday. Thanks again to those who helped me get the parts right on this, without you I would have not gotten all the parts required.

But that leads me to my next issue; the day ended with two new issues.

1) When I throttle up with a load on the motor, she puts out a bit of white smoke. Any ideas? It doesn't appear to effect performance at all but it is dis-concerning none the less.

2) No matter what I do to the clutch adjustment, the clutch is either soft and doesn't engage properly (not grabby at all) or the drive shaft won't stop spinning completely no matter how long I hold the clutch in. Is this because the clutch is new and needs to break in or is it something else?
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  #18  
Old 06-16-2013, 09:11 AM
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If you used the anti rattle springs on the clutch,they tend to make that shaft spin.
The white smoke is oil burning,did it do it before you started on the clutch?maybe you overfilled it.
Not sure what is going on with your pics...
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  #19  
Old 06-16-2013, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by darkminion_17 View Post
If you used the anti rattle springs on the clutch,they tend to make that shaft spin.
The white smoke is oil burning,did it do it before you started on the clutch?maybe you overfilled it.
Not sure what is going on with your pics...
Anti rattle springs? The only spring I replaced was the compression spring between the spacer and the hub compression plate, was only about an inch if memory serves.

It spins with a bit of force, if that makes sense. It makes you grind a little bit before it'll go into gear. But if you're changing from gear to gear, it shifts just fine, the shaft doesn't spin or anything. Only when going from neutral to any gear.

Edit: And what do mean, the pics aren't showing?

And I added 2qts of oil, it's what I saw was the capacity on tractordata.com for the motor. But no, it didn't do it before the clutch work, then again I didn't have much seat time so I could have just not know it did it.
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  #20  
Old 06-16-2013, 10:25 AM
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Great job on your clutch rebuild!
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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