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#11
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Before I go any further, I wanted to double check to make sure that the set screws that hold the clutch pulley housing in place are in fact standard allen heads. From what I have read, there are 2 per hole.
Also....Any advice on a supplier for the front PTO clutch disc repair kit for the 126? I would like to get a kit that has the adjusting gauge... |
#12
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Allen screws are all standard sizes.
There are 2 in each hole, the 1st one out us the locking one, it's a shorty. The next one out, and the 1st to go back, in is the pointy one. It locks the assl'y onto the bearing behind the locking collar. |
#13
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1/4 x 20 thread. 1/8 ALLEN socket. Shorty is only 1/4 long, don't drop it, the longer pointy one is about maybe 3/4 long.
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#14
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All good advice.
I will add to make sure your 1/8” Allen has sharp edges and Don’t use the socket with the little ball deal on the end because it will snap off. Patience and PB blaster are your friends. You might have some that break loose but then get tight again. Go back and forth with those as the exposed threads are rusty after many years. Back together with anti seize on the threads. Make sure to thin out. 7/16 wrench to make sure you can lock the lock nuts together because they will cause problems if loose. Good luck.
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(2) Original, 100, 102, 124, 73, 800, #1 and #2 cart, brinly plows, disk, IH184, IH244, 1948 F Cub |
#15
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Quote:
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#16
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Emergency!
Great advice and everyone was spot on all the way down to crud in the holes that had to be removed! I really appreciate everyone's input.
I removed the locking allen screws and then stopped for the evening. I am now ready to remove the clutch unit. Any advice on removal? I assume I can just gently tap on the clutch unit and slide off of the bearing? It doesn't appear that a gear remover will help unless I can remove the button... So on the "Emergency" I have to figure this out today. The grass in the yard is getting tall and the little lady is threatening to go buy a green machine if I don't get this running! |
#17
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If all 6 set screws are out, then tapping outward from side to side and pulling with your other hand while tapping it should bring it off ! easy peasy !
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#18
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Many thanks!
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#19
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Making Headway!
Ok, with the help from the good folks on this forum, I am getting closer to cutting grass once again. I was able to remove the clutch assembly. What little friction disc is left is around the edge of the pressure plate (see photo)
So before I order parts, is there a way to determine what other parts I may need beside the fricition disc? ie...is there a way to determine, aside from obvious damage, whether the thrust button or any other part needs replacing? After giving them a good look, I dont see any obvious issues with the button, the pressure plate, or the throw out levers. Thanks again! |
#20
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If nothing looks damaged or broke ,then pretty much all you should need is the kit with new disc and tension spring,clean up the pressure plate with a wire wheel or flapper disc, I usually take a flat sharpening/griddle stone and go over it to knock any high /uneven spots off or if you have access to a lathe or surface grinder take a small clean up cut to give it a new surface. reassemble and properly adjust and all should be good ! Also be sure to get all the pb blaster off with some brake kleen or oil free solvent before reassembly...
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